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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 12-29-2009, 08:34 PM
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Oh Yeah I forgot to mention they do DO NOT have them in store. I had to order mine online, site to store. Good news is it was free, Bad news I had to pay tax. The site to store shipping took 7 days total. (including weekends).


Im glad I could help out! I wanted to wait until I used the compressor before I recommended it to anyone. And so far the only thing Ive seen that I don't like is the factory warranty. I highly recommend the northern tool warranty. The paper work they sent with the compressor has the factory warranty in detail, and it pretty much says they will not replace or repair it. They had many crazy rules. Like if you leave it bolted to the pallet then it is void, It has to be hooked up by a licensed electrician, It is void if used for commercial work, And this one is great. The warranty is void if you ever hook up a tool that requires more CFM then the compressor is rated for.

The factory warranty sucks.. I did not realize that until tonight. The $50 extra northern tool warranty is very good. It says if the product is ever defective they will replace it (Not repair) for free and deliver then new one. for 2 years. well worth the $50.


Just so you guys know, The devilbiss 80-gallon air compressor that is for sale at sams club, for $1199 is the same compressor. the only difference is the tank. The devilbiss does not have the air regulator built on the tank like this one. But the pump and the motor are the same. The funny part is the devilbiss is 1cfm higher and 1 hp less.. But I checked the model numbers off the pump and motor and they match the devillbiss (ex-cell by devilbiss )

A quick google of the pump and motor model numbers show the motor is used on many many brands and model compressors ranging in size from 60-100 gallon tank. The strange part is almost every manufacture that uses the same model motor, rates it at a different horse power. 3.4 hp the lowest (bel-aire 80gallon) and 6.1 being the highest (craftsman 60-gallon). When I googled the pump model number all I found was this compressor, the kobalt, devilbiss and one red 80-gal campbell hausfiled sold only at the home depot.
Also listed as refurbished for $899

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  #17 (permalink)  
Old 12-29-2009, 09:37 PM
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"These days a dollar saved really is a dollar earned, IMHO."

A dollar saved is TWO dollars you do not have to earn and pay taxes on.
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  #18 (permalink)  
Old 12-29-2009, 10:05 PM
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devilbiss compressor

i just rebuilt the reed valves on our shop compressor for $60.
the kit included 8 reeds, 6 rings, gaskets and shaft seals.
if your compressor supplied enough cfm for you, then rebuild it.
ours was leaking down, at first it was occasional,
eventually it ran 6 times an hr with no air usage.
it should be easy to get a rebuild kit for a devilbiss compressor

after tearing it down, i realized that we probably could have gotten away with just flat sanding the reed plate.
heat from running too long had warped the plate around the reed seats.
maybe that is all you need.

note to self: yes the compressor will keep up to the sandblaster,
but don't blast for 2 hrs straight...
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  #19 (permalink)  
Old 12-29-2009, 10:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ogre
i just rebuilt the reed valves on our shop compressor for $60.
the kit included 8 reeds, 6 rings, gaskets and shaft seals.
if your compressor supplied enough cfm for you, then rebuild it.
ours was leaking down, at first it was occasional,
eventually it ran 6 times an hr with no air usage.
it should be easy to get a rebuild kit for a devilbiss compressor

after tearing it down, i realized that we probably could have gotten away with just flat sanding the reed plate.
heat from running too long had warped the plate around the reed seats.
maybe that is all you need.

note to self: yes the compressor will keep up to the sandblaster,
but don't blast for 2 hrs straight...

I thought about rebuilding my old one, And I even searched for a rebuild kit and came up empty. I did not look hard. I even looked in to buying a new pump from harbor freight and nothern tool. I may end up rebuilding or replacing the pump on it to sell in the future. It was a dual piston 60 gallon compressor. The specs where a little lower then the new one.
I bought it 8 years ago used from a pawn shop. I have no idea how old it really is. It had other issues besides the valves leaking. The motor was getting weak. It would hesitate sometimes when over 100psi. And I started to notice lots of rusted metal bits when I drained it. bad pump, weak motor and rusted tank. not worth spending a lot of money on.

If i can get my hands on a gasket kit I would like to take it apart and see if I can fix the valves with out spending more then $50 and if I can fix it I will give it to my dad to air tires a other lite duty work. I donno

One more note on the morgan compressor: I ment to mention that the "Morgan" company is based in South Carolina.

Last edited by smithkustoms; 12-29-2009 at 10:43 PM.
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  #20 (permalink)  
Old 12-30-2009, 08:31 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ogre
i just rebuilt the reed valves on our shop compressor for $60.
the kit included 8 reeds, 6 rings, gaskets and shaft seals.
if your compressor supplied enough cfm for you, then rebuild it.
ours was leaking down, at first it was occasional,
eventually it ran 6 times an hr with no air usage.
it should be easy to get a rebuild kit for a devilbiss compressor

after tearing it down, i realized that we probably could have gotten away with just flat sanding the reed plate.
heat from running too long had warped the plate around the reed seats.
maybe that is all you need.

note to self: yes the compressor will keep up to the sandblaster,
but don't blast for 2 hrs straight...


There's a little more to it than just those reed valves and if you are relying on them to maintain tank pressure that will not last long at all. However the good news is that the problem is both easy and cheap to fix, since the tank pressure was leaking back through the pump then the back-flow in the tank (where the inlet pipe connects) is leaking allowing pressure to flow back against the pump. This is a bad condition and needs to be fixed but as I said it is quick, cheap and easy by simply removing that valve and either cleaning (that usually fixes them) or replacing it. The reed valves are not meant to hold back tank pressure, they should not have pressure on them when the pump is idle, and when the tank pressure has leaked back to the pump as yours was apparently doing then the pump must start under load which is really hard on the motor, this also makes me wonder about your unloader valve. Do you still get that momentary hiss when the compressor shuts down? Maybe it is not even shutting off completely and tends to leak sightly? This would (should!) occur if the backflow valve is leaking, in any case leaking reed valves will not allow the tank pressure to leak down if the backflow valve is working properly nor should they be expected to.
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  #21 (permalink)  
Old 12-30-2009, 10:03 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oldred
Maybe it is not even shutting off completely and tends to leak sightly? This would (should!) occur if the backflow valve is leaking, in any case leaking reed valves will not allow the tank pressure to leak down if the backflow valve is working properly nor should they be expected to.
I was wondering about that. On the two compressors I use there are valves that prevents this.

On the Coleman oil-less the valve is really nothing more than a ball and seat. I got the compressor for next to nothing because it would run but not pressurize the tank. The ball had stuck to the seat and all it took was a cleaning of the corrosion and it went on to pump just fine.

In Ogre's case, this valve sure could be leaking, like oldred said. Might not even cost anything to fix.

Last edited by cobalt327; 12-30-2009 at 11:32 AM. Reason: Correct name.
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  #22 (permalink)  
Old 12-30-2009, 11:20 AM
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I have seen more than one compressor junked when a cleaning or simple replacement or repair of valves would have fixed the problem. That backflow valve between the tank and the pump is very important and needs to always be functional especially when the reed valves are in good shape and the pump is working at it's maximum efficiency! In Ogre's case the reed valves certainly needed replacing but they were not the direct cause of the problem even if new ones did seem to solve it, for a while anyway. No matter how much the reed valves leak the tank should not leak down while idle because there is not supposed to be any pressure between the tank and the pump during this time that's what the unloader does, it relieves pressure on the pump head (and the reed valves) so that the motor does not have to start the pump with a load on it. Leaking reed valves certainly will cause a problem with long pump up times, or if bad enough not even reaching cut off pressure, but leak down while idle will be a backflow valve problem (assuming the air is leaking from the pump and not a leak in the tank or air line system).
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