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Old 09-10-2005, 04:27 PM
Will I ever get it done?
 

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Is if me or the steel?

I removed the window box on my 41 chevy to rebuild it. When I pulled it out, I saw that the previous owner had filled the trim holes by blobbing mig wire into the holes. Some of them were solid, some fell out when I cut all the wires off the back. So I have been touching up the ones that were OK and putting steel patch plugs in the ones that were junk. I have had a real tough time welding. Sometimes it works just fine. Nice penetration and a flat cap. Other times I don't get penetration. Or it will blow a hole the size of Texas in the steel.

Anyway, I finally got the holes patched to my satisfaction. On one area, I was using a hammer and dolly and a shrinking disc. Everything was going great. I was almost to the point of saying good enough when a vertical crack formed in the base metal. ARGGHHHH! Touch the MIG to it and boom, a 1/4" hole. I ended up putting a 1/2" x 3/4" patch in it. The proud still needs to be ground down so I can start stretching and shrinking all over again. Another day, cause I have had enough for today (maybe tomorrow!).

Any ideas? The base steel rusted under the trim. I am cleaning this up as I go. There are some pits, but the steel at the weld is clean. The plugs are out of 18ga. CS. I am using 0.030" wire in my Marquette MIG. At this rate I am never going to get the car done.
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Old 09-10-2005, 06:06 PM
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Technique is your problem, combined with not the perfect welding system. First, you are taking a craps shoot when trying to salvage panels w/ cancer. Sometimes a spot will fill perfectly as you describe and then others will blow out due to the metal being too far gone. Even when you get a good weld, the rusty area is brittle from hydrogen embrittlement associated with the chemistry of the rusting process so a little hammer and dolly working will crack it. Only real way to do a good job is to cut back to clean sound cancer free metal and weld in a patch. The other difficulty you are having is using the wrong welding wire. Self-fluxing 0.03" wore is great for production work on thick sheet and thin plate but is no good for sheet metal. Switch to 0.023" solid wire and CO2/argon gas and you wills ee an order of magnitude improvement in your sheet metal welds.
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Old 09-10-2005, 06:28 PM
Will I ever get it done?
 

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Hi Willys,

I am using solid with CO2/Argon. I used to use 0.023 until I read a post by Wray Schelin stating that he used 0.035 to weld patch panels in. http://www.metalmeet.com/forum/showt...&highlight=035
I tried the 0.030 and I like it better. I am going to get a roll of 0.035 and try it.

On the rust pits, I am afraid you may be on it there. Problem is, I can't see myself cutting a patch approx. 2 inch wide and 4 ft long, with compound curves, putting it in, and having it look like something other than a SCORE track. I'm doomed.
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Old 09-10-2005, 07:32 PM
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I also like the .030 wire better than .023 for light sheetmetal. The thicker wire seems to conduct better and I get hotter starts and faster weld travel. I also have a Marquette welder. I don't think Marquette is in business any more, when I bought mine Lincoln owned the company.

I agree patching up some of this old sheetmetal is tough if you can't see what's on the inside. I've done work on windshield frames for 30's era cars and I know exactly what you're going through. You're finding thin areas that you thought were good. You can make your own frame if that one isn't salvageable. Bob
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Old 09-10-2005, 08:21 PM
Will I ever get it done?
 

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Baddbob

The window box is nearly complete. You can see the rusty version in my photo album. I have to put the drain in it, sandblast the rust, weld the two pieces together, prime it, seam seal it, and weld it in the car.

The holes I am trying to patch are on the qtr. panel. I want to get it done while I can still get to the back side of most of it. Once I put the window box back in, it will be basically inaccessible.

The holes on the top of the window frame are inaccessible. I am going to have to use a little more filler on those spots. Maybe that is what I should do on the lower ones. I just wanted it to have as little bondo as possible.

I need to post some new photos.
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