Opinions vary on the use of etch primer. Personally I do not like it at all. Never had any problems using epoxy primer direct to bare metal. Of course you need a high quality epoxy primer....not to sure DuPont or PPG fit that criteria. A quality epoxy primer will hold up to water exposure, but it needs to be top coated for maximum protection.
I would listen to your paint store. They spend every day dealing with the issues of numerous local bodyshops, that have to deal with humidity and ocean salt spray. They would know what theshops are buying, and hear what is apparently working. Who would know better???
An old friend of mine...WHO ALWAYS LIVED IN TUCSON... bought a '70 Charger from coastal Florida. Having never experienced a rusty climate, he thought it sounded like a good deal for a car with a fresh 440!
So far they have replaced the floors, trunk pan, quarters, door skins and front fenders. It's just not the same everywhere.
I've used metal prep for 45 years, and 2K primer for the last 20 years. I have no rust issues, and guarantee the work as long as you own it.
Today I think people over-think the process. I am told to by some people to use self-etch primer to neutralize rust.....then epoxy to make it water tight...then 2K for the block sanding.
Lets see.....30 minutes work and $5 in materials.... versus $300-$400 dollars in extra materials, and two extra primer sessions. No thanks.
I think those products have their place, like epoxy if the car is going to be run in primer long-term, or self-etch if you aren't going to be blocking the car flat, but why complicate it for essentially no gain.
Like I said, opinions are like ......well you get it . The local paint jobbers may or may not give you good advice. Our local paint jobber has someone new behind the counter every time I go in. I would not trust any advice at all from them.
I am not a fan Etch Primer either. Epoxy works extremely well. And I don't usually listen to the advice of the paint supplier either. Usually they don't know what they are talking about and their main objective is to SELL PAINT!!!!
I use etch, and I too have had zero problems with it. Epoxy over bare metal will give you the same, if they are done properly they will both out last us all.
I remember going to my first plant class put on by a manufacturer I was TICKED beyond belief because the paint store where I bought all my paint couldn't have told me a damn thing that I learned in that class about how this stuff works.
I knew they went to these conventions like NACE and such, I KNEW they had been to them! What in the hell were they doing, going out dancing and to strip clubs?
Anyway, the MANUFACTURER is who you want to call, not a store counterman. They are your first place to go, but if you question something more, go the factory who makes it. The number is right on the can!
By the way, this "NAPA" store is a parts store, or a stand alone paint store?
I have no problem with etching primer if it's a good quality one but what everyone else is saying is true, I wouldn't trust the paint suppliers advice they sure can press the buttons on the computer and read what it said but most of them have no idea what they are talking about, per example in a different situation the other day I went to the autoparts store looking for a contact points for a car I used to have the guy din't even knew what I was talking about he checked the computer up and down but because it wasn't there he couldn't help me out. ain't that a shame
i see no reason for etch primer anymore. high quality epoxy will perform much better. i introduce no acids of any kind into the system. imo there is no place in refinishing for acids as urethanes and epoxies do not like acid. leaded lacquer loved it. i epoxy clean steel and use only epoxy for refinishing in most cases.
it makes no difference where you live it all reacts the same. now in the desert states they run misters outside of the booth to get urethane to kick right. epoxy does not like cool temps/high humidity . i have never understood the idea of stripping metal and leaving it bare. i epoxy as soon as it is clean and dry.
as for nappa paint sales i dont think so. never get your tech advice anywhere but the mfg that made the product. search this site and you will find more bogus bs advice than you would believe. some good stuff too but there have been some google experts here over the years.
i would not use nason.
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