If you were a dome light why would you not work?? - Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board
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Old 05-01-2005, 09:11 PM
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If you were a dome light why would you not work??

OK no dome light.Fuse is good and bulb is new.Wires are attached and not corroded at the light.I tested for power at the light and nothing.But my test light may not have been grounded well.I will retest with a better ground.
Also I might add my radio memory is off the same fuse and it works fine.
Were should I start looking for a problem??
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Old 05-01-2005, 09:33 PM
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Check for voltage at the light. If there is no voltage you will have to start tracing back. Was the fuse previously blown? If so the voltage line to the light might be grounding. One common area is the screw holding the visor. If the fuse wasn't previously blown suspect an open wire, especially at any splices. Not sure if this is switched on power or the switch is on the ground side. Either way verify voltage and ground.
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Old 05-02-2005, 02:02 AM
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dome light

Door switch
Headlight switch
Bad ground
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Old 05-02-2005, 03:53 PM
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Dome lights

Doc Here,

Most Dome lights are wired hot at all times directly to the light socket...It uses a ground at the door post switches to turn the lamp on and off..

With a Voltmeter, check power at the Lamp. you should have 12 volts on one side of the socket. If not check the fuse, If it's good follow that wire forward to the socket, look for cuts or breaks.

With that side known, go to the other side with your meter set for ohms R x 1 or auto range, measure that side to ground, you should read 000 ohms to ground (any door open) If that's missing look for the (If were talking about a 78 monte) white wire, it runs from the socket to all door post switches and back to the headlight switch.The headlight switch provides ground in Dome light function in addition to the post switches.

If you don't get a dome light in either function, I'd suspect the ground between the lamp socket and the switches, If you have 12 volts present, as this is the only run that would disable both functions.

Let us know what you find

Doc
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Old 05-02-2005, 04:47 PM
E.T. divided by $ spent= Speed
 
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Its the Dodge Shadow again breakin my balls.The monte is gone,now I'm building the Volvo PV in my photos.
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Sam
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Old 05-03-2005, 03:45 PM
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Ok,I tested and I have a good ground.I hooked my test light to a positive and tested to the negative at the bulb.It lit and turned off when the door switchs were closed and when the light switch turned off.So thats OK.
I have no power to the light.BUT.........the fuse is good.And the radio memory runs off that fuse and is working.
So now what could be goin on??If the wire chaffed against a screw or something it would have shorted to ground and blew the fuse.
I really hate to have to take the headliner and dash half out to trace a stupid wire.Also they used friction tape to bundle the harness,so thats a disaster waiting to happen.
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Old 05-03-2005, 04:17 PM
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Power

Doc here,

Ok..now were getting somewhere..

If you have good functional tested grounds and switches..as you said, the problem lies in the Positive side of the line..

Do you have a timeout timer for Courtesy lights when you exit the vehicle? If so check that fuse and The TDR (time delay relay) for functionality.Not sure on a dodge, (if it even has one) and if so, if it controls power to the dome lamp circuit.

Isolate your wire coming from the dome light socket and locate it where it comes out on the left side of the dash or windshield post (usually the wire color will do the trick in finding the wire)

With your test light (you don't have an ohm meter do you? it would be easier..)
pull the fuse from the dome circuit, and ground the positive side of the circuit at the lamp holder.

Clip your test light to a 12 volt source, If it is a "Probe type" tester, carefully dig the end of the probe into the wire..until you have a good contact without tearing the wire in half..

Your light should light if the Circuit between the socket and where it exits at the windshield post or under the dash is intact...If it does...yur not outta the woods yet...pull the ground jumper at the socket, and the light SHOULD go away...If it does..your "All good" through the headliner at least...IF it DOES NOT..you have a ground short on that line you need to address..(pulling the headliner..)

If that is good..then the problem is Between the exit point at the windshield post and / or under the dash to it's source power..you need to follow and test that line with your test light until you lose power..or in this case find power..that point is where you will need to address the problem.

Doc
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