[Tim240Z]

OK, I've spend hours searching through the board, but for every point there is a valid counterpoint, so now I am frazzled!!

Here is what I have:
1940 Chev 4 Door Special Deluxe (all original)

Here is what I want to have when done:
A nice family cruiser (not a garage/trailer queen--I have one of those already), It needs to be safe, reliable and look and run beautifully. Body/cosmetically it will be brought back to original splendor...no customizing there.
For the drivetrain: 350 chev, 200 4R, Jag (??) rear.
For the front, as I see it, I have 3 basic options:
1. buy a IFS kit from one of the plethora of vendors....expensive, but likely meets my criteria above
2. Graft in a front subframe from a donor vehicle (camaro, nova etc etc).
3. Rebuild the stock factory setup to new condition (not to sure that this is a viable option to meet above criteria).

I can weld and fabricate parts (at least basic ones...I don't have a mill, lathe etc in my garage). I do ALL my own engine work, rebuilds, suspension etc.....

I will not be running huge rubber, but definitely thicker than the pizza cutters on there now. What can I run size wise on tires without having clearance issues. I also don't want this to be lawnmower low, but also not 4X4 high...

Input PLEEEEZE.....

Here is the car...FYI....




Thanks a bunch,
Tim

[Centerline]

If it were me, Heidts Mustang II IFS using stock Mustang upper and lower control arms AND strut-rods mounted correctly. Can be done for under a grand. Add 11" GM disks for another $250 or so.

There are several reasons why I think this is the best option. First Heidts goes to a lot of trouble to duplicate Ford's geometry exactly. Second, the stock frame is very strong, you have a choice of power or manual steering and there are a plethora of parts available including as I mentioned big disk brakes. I did one of these on my 41 Coupe and ran 60 series tires up front with no trouble.

Centerline

[Tim240Z]

Thanks C.L.....that looks like the perfect option!!! Inexpensive, with lots of options to upgrade!
I'm sold!!

Thanks Again!!!
Tim

[willys36@aol.com]

If you do go Heidt's be sure to beef up the X-member so you don't suffer the fatigue failure @ the lower A-arm mounting holes that has been reported. And bolt, don't weld, the strut rod supports to the frame.

An alternative that I promote is to use a stock X-member from a MII. Work it right (i.e., buy a donor car, take out the front end and part out the rest for a profit) and it can be done for free!!