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Personally, I wouldn't spend the time to try to design an IFS "from scratch". The benefits aren't worth the cost, especially if you don't get it right the first time.
I only say that because there are years of IFS vehicles on the road, with all sorts of sizes to choose from. I would try to find a vehicle that has a similar track as yours, and has the same steering (rack or box) and get the geometry from it. You can always box the existing members for strength, or have new ones built with the same dimensions, but the geometry will be proven. You could do quite a bit of modification within the parameters of the proven geometry to improve the load carrying, but you would have the benefit of the OEM's original engineering. If you can find a "popular" vehicle, that would probably be better, as you will then have some aftermarket options that may include proven suspension modifications. Just some things to think about. Good luck! |
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Thanks for the reply
The problem I keep running into is when I tell IFS sellers I have a 1936 ford Truck they say they can do it. But when I tell them its a 1936 Ford Panel truck based on a 1 ½ Ton frame and 18ft long and 7.5 tall with a final weight close to 3500Lb or 4000Lb they say their suspension at best handles 2K to 3K max. Which is a lot for the average IFS user, but with a large panel truck and say five adults on board the weight could go 4000+Lbs and if I did something like hit a pothole, well you now my next stop. I have talked to the top sellers and get a NO or never hear from then again. Then to make it worse I don’t want to lower the panel, because smaller tires gives me a Whale on a Skate board look. When I set it up in a CAD program and maintain stock ride height I actually get the front axel centerline three inches below the frame. Which gives me two options one is standard placement of the control arms and a drop spindle or a IFS that bolts to the side of the frame. Then I end up with the IFS being too wide and tires have to be smaller again or no vertical travel and tires hitting inside of the wheel well. So this brings me to the option of using a Clip or swap. Well as mentioned out side frame mount won’t work. Some sort of clip might work but with a 28in. wide space between the frame to work in I either use a small donor, or do a lot of cut, chop and weld to get it in with a lot of work getting it backing in, and maintain proper geometry. Now I’m back to what I would like to do. To keep it looking clean and functional I found a source for NASCAR used or new lower and upper control arms. These parts are clean looking, and rated for a 3000+Lb cars going 200 mph. I was assured by more than one seller and engineer that 3500Lb at say 75 mph is under design limits. So all the parts I would be using are very well designed and sold by major suppliers like Moog except maybe the lower control arms. Ok now I have well made parts then I use a ¾ ton truck lift spindle a NASCAR lower control arm and new NASCAR designed upper control arms. That all come together in a clean package like a Mustang II setup on legal steroids. But back to my first post I have most of the equipment to do this, but know what I can’t do, or need to get done. Camber, Toe and Caster I can handle but A arm length and Bump Steer is where I would like input. To get close enough to correct so I can fine-tune it. Then with four wheels I can take it to a good alignment shop have it checked out, then permanently weld it all in and be shore it will work. I know the cost will be higher than buying IFS or the other options but the front end will be capable of going 200mph even if the rest can’t. This is why I need software or some one that has it or some one with first hand experience that is willing to help and get paid for their time. Mike Last edited by iceman36; 05-05-2006 at 04:08 PM. |
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