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Old 02-12-2004, 09:17 PM
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IFS installed on 57 F100

I am truely a brave man to post these pictures. I know that I will be told what I did wrong. Really I appreciate the criticism so don't hold back. First I'll say that I added a triangular box to the top of the Fatman crossmember. It is welded to the inner boxing plate that we installed. It is 1/4" wall. I felt like it would reduce the frame flexing strengthening the overall design. I am not happy with the strut alignment with reference to the lower control arm pivot bolt but I worked with what I had. This will not be a racer or daily driver and will see infrequent trips out on mostly good roads. We also added a gusset to the strut rod mounting bracket. I am open to suggestions on how to improve this. Here are a few pics .

OK I guess I can only do one at a time.

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Last edited by Darkman270; 02-12-2004 at 09:29 PM.
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Old 02-12-2004, 09:22 PM
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Here is second picture.

If someone can tell me how to put the image in the text it would be nice.
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Last edited by Darkman270; 02-12-2004 at 09:30 PM.
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Old 02-13-2004, 02:06 PM
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IFS Gussets

I'm still bench assembling my Fatman Stage III but my plan is to add the frame inboard and outboard gusset as you have installed. In fact I making cardboard "go-bys" for the shop. r
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Old 02-14-2004, 07:21 PM
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Cool

Nothing wrong with the gussets! It may be overkill but that is a good thing, Go ahead and drive it everyday. Looks like you got a good start on the chassis.
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Old 02-15-2004, 02:16 PM
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Thanks for the comments guys. One day I may build a real rod as opposed to rebuilding a stocker. I envy the latitude you have when it comes to mixing and matching parts. I need to keep mine stock APPEARING to keep with my project mission. Don't get me wrong I'm enjoying it but sometimes I feel like I'm in a box. A very small box. LOL
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Old 02-16-2004, 09:18 AM
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looks great. but while you are at it i would go ahead and box the rest of the frame, it will improve your ride emensly, it will stiffen the rails many thousand times. and make for a much more modern ride (an x member wont hurt either- but boxing is cheap and easy in your stage and will help alot)
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Old 02-19-2004, 07:54 PM
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What did you mean by...

" I am not happy with the strut alignment with reference to the lower control arm pivot bolt but I worked with what I had."

Are you discussing the parallels with the lower arm shaft and the upper arm mounts. While bench assembling I was concerned about the "anti-dive" and the upper arm shaft. I'm installing a stage III but curious about your comment.

thx, r

Last edited by RAW; 02-19-2004 at 07:57 PM.
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Old 02-19-2004, 08:13 PM
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I was unable to line up the lower control arm pivot with the rear strut rod mounting point which is actually a pivot too. This was due to my frame width. I could have, as Willys36, did put a factory rear strut mount that was widened. Ideally a piece of 1/2" allthread running through the lower control arm bolt holes should also shoot a bullseye through the rear strut mounting bracket.
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Old 02-20-2004, 12:53 AM
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i have installed an OEM MII in my 32 roadster, and i have cut the strut rod and welded on a tube that holds a bushing to gain some room arround my engine. but the mountings are still on the inside of my frame

i think you should re do it to get the pivot point right, because unless you have a very stiff front suspension that hardly mooves you are going to get some funny allignment changes throughout the travel of the wheel. The easiest is propably to buy a triangulated lower contrill arm that elimitates the strut rod. that will also loose some of the sloppyness the SOFT strut rod bushings add.
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Old 02-20-2004, 05:10 AM
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There are a couple different strut rods. As I understand it the Pinto strut rods had a slightly different bend in them than the Mustang rods. This may be where your problem lies.

Usually all you have to do is heat the strut rod with a torch and make the necessary bend to line up with the frame.

Hope this helps.

Centerline
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