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Old 05-20-2010, 12:52 PM
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Is an IFS worth it?

Here's my build plan. 1952 Chevy 3600. Nova rear, SBC 400, (tranny still open for discussion). I am planning on buying an IFS in the near future but am now leaning toward just a dropped straight axle. My plan for this truck is to be a fun daily driver with a little giddyup. I'm just wondering from anybody who's had experience, is it worth the 2k to put in an IFS if it's not for show or racing? I'm pretty certain I'd rather use that money to build up the engine. The only problem I for see is that I would like the front bolt pattern to match the rear 5 x 4.75. Thanks in advance. (I would like to see the bottom of the body sit somewhere around 8-12", not slammed..)

-Greg
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Old 05-20-2010, 04:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Crakums_GT
The only problem I for see is that I would like the front bolt pattern to match the rear 5 x 4.75. -Greg
You could always redrill the front hubs to the standard Chevrolet wheel bolt pattern. But it would still be HIGH.

I am not a fan of the Pinto/Mustang II IFS under trucks

I am considering installing a XJ6 front suspension under a a early F1 truck.



Looks fairly SIMPLE ... and old XJ6 Jags are CHEAP ...
I have found a couple for less than $600 each.

Here is a on-line photo album of a XJ6 front cradle and suspension going under a 1950 F1 Ford ... but your Chevrolet should be similar.

http://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gall...&albumid=30130


AND ... the JAGUAR has the 5 on 4.75 wheel pattern
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Old 05-20-2010, 05:40 PM
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Or simply bolt on the MANY kits for disc brakes. Or bolt on the stock 49-54 Passenger car spindles which have the same bolt pattern. I believe on a 52 just the hub and drum will slip on, while the 51 and under require the spindle change. But if I am not mistaken the 52 has the spindle change already.

Personally, I like my old cars to drive like an old car, dropped axle for me. But that's just me and everyone has their own thing.

Brian
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Old 05-23-2010, 06:50 AM
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I saw an interesting build on a 56 Ford Pu that should work great on your Chevy except you would need to go with a Ford rear end. He used the IFS out of a 96 Big Ford Sedan (LTD), as well as the motor, tranny and rear end. This is beefy stuff that will make his PU handle and ride like a dream and the 347 motor will work like a charm. Be different and put a Ford drive train in a Chevy!!! If I do another street rod, this will be my drive train of choice!!!

Trees
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Old 05-25-2010, 08:16 AM
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Thank you guys. I'm going to continue doing some research on front disc kits and see how much it will cost in total. Then I'll make a decision. The inputs are much appreciated. BTW what's the best way to incorporate power steering if I stay with the straight axle? Thanks again.

-Greg
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Old 06-04-2010, 03:42 AM
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Howdy
I'm an Aussie and the use of IFS is the norm down here. Go to Ozrodders.com and use the search facility and you will find XJ6 Jag IFS in Chevys the same as yours. The bonus is they have decent brakes and R & P steering all mounted up. This is all top quality proven stuff. Regarding the Rack & Pinion on a beam axle unless it's mounted on the axle it will bump steer like crazy.
Cheers
Tony
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Old 06-04-2010, 07:33 AM
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I decided, this being a budget build and all, I will go with a dropped axle and disc brake conversion and see how it goes from there. Thank you all. I'm sure I'll change my mind back and forth a few times before I get to that part of my build. RIght now I'm trying to track down a Nova rear end to install on top of the leafs and POR15 the frame. Then I'll finally start looking at the front end.

-Greg
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Old 06-05-2010, 06:22 AM
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Just my opinion and a few builds, but I think you are getting the cart in front of the horse by POR 15ing the frame before you have completed all the suspension work. Now if you are staying with the original suspension front and rear, I am off base.

Trees
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Old 06-07-2010, 09:58 AM
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I'm doing is from behind the cab and back. I am going to clean up the Nova rear end, flip the perches, and get it set under the frame. Then I am going to POR 15 the rear end and the frame up to the rear of the cab. Then the same with the front end. Once done with those I wil tip the cab back to POR 15 under the cab and most like replace mounts and all that fun stuff. I'm doing it this way because this project is being built in a 1 1/2 car garage.
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