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Old 09-01-2010, 07:08 PM
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ignition coil

finished all the wiring, got new starter button on and she still wount start, turns nicely but no spark. I tried the old screw driver in plug wire, no spark. I have been told they are hard to find, 6 volt positive ground 6 cylinder ignition coil. There are two on ebay, but they are for an 8 cyl. and do not say pos. ground, but are for cars from the 40's, does it matter?
any suggestions?

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Old 09-01-2010, 07:33 PM
richard stewart 3rd's Avatar
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Hi,
Check the link.
Good luck,
Rich

http://farmallparts.com/products/?vi...oduct_id=24315
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Old 09-01-2010, 09:02 PM
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have you set the points? are they good, clean? To answer your other questions, it makes no difference if it's for a 6cyl or 8 cyl, it makes a difference weather it's a + or - ground.
the coil in the link will work fine, or check the tractor dealer in your area.
Good luck,
Rich
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Old 09-02-2010, 06:03 AM
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thanks

Thanks, ya the points look like they are in good condition, but I could have someone else look at them to be sure. thanks for the link, is it okay to use tractor parts on a car? guess it wouldn't matter, as long as it's pos. ground and 6 volt.
Thanks again
Sarah
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Old 09-02-2010, 06:07 AM
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If the condenser is shorted, that will kill the spark. You can try removing the condenser and testing it (be sure to ground it first so you don't get shocked). If it is grounded internally to the case, wrapping it in tape to insulate the case will allow it to work just to see if that's the problem.
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Old 09-02-2010, 09:25 AM
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Tech Article Wiki

Hi Sarah..If you go to the top of this page and click on Tech Article Wiki and then click on electrical and then click on trouble shooting ignition , or just click on this reply on troubleshooting ignition, it should help a lot. You might print the article and take it out to the garage with you . Hope this helps ..Allan
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Old 09-09-2010, 04:55 AM
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damn thing

new coil new ignition switch and still no spark. So close I can taste it just don't see why i'm not getting spark. everything has power reads on a meter reader what could be the problem?
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Old 09-09-2010, 06:58 AM
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When I check for a spark, I take the coil wire off the dist center connection, stick a sparkplug into it, and lay the body of the sparkplug on the engine somewhere. This by-passes the distributor cap, rotor button, etc., completely, which is good in case the spark is bleeding off inside due to carbon tracking, or just too weak to jump the gap to a plug wire. I then just push the points open with a popsicle stick and look for a spark at the test sparkplug.

On a negative ground system, you need battery voltage to the coil (+) which sounds like you've confirmed (postive ground needs it at the coil (-), but you'll get a spark regardless, just the wrong polarity), but don't forget the dist has to be grounded. Usually it gets it's connection at the engine, and you can tell if the engine is usually well grounded if the starter motor works well. If the body of the dist was painted, you might have a problem there.

The points can actually fail from four different reasons that currently come to mind. One is the obvious pitting and crud build-up on the point contacts. Another is the points base isn't grounded due to oil, paint, rust etc under the base, although this isn't a common fault. The points can also be continually shorted....in other words, when they mechanically open, they are still closed electrically. This usually has something to do with the pivot point. Also, they could be installed incorrectly. Often there is a copper looking spring thing.....this is getting hard to remember....but it goes form the moveable contact to the dist housing feedthrough. Make sure it goes to the moveable contact and isn't touching the fixed base contact. Sometimes a wire is used. Make sure it isn't internally broken.

Set point gap to spec, or 0.020 is close, and make sure they close completely. with the igntion OFF, you can put ohmeter leads across the points and then check for continuity with them closed and open circuit when they open.

A condensor is needed to get a good fat spark. It isn't merely to keep the points from pitting. You will get a spark without one installed, but it may be of such poor quality, you can't see it. As above, a shorted condensor will not allow a spark at all.

The dist body feedthrough must be insulated. Some feedthroughs are made up of plastic parts, one of whihc is a shoulder washer. If installed improperly, the center conducting bolt may touch the dist bowl and short out the connection to the points.

If your meter has an ammeter function, connect it in series between either of your coil low voltage connections and the wire you remove to this. When the points open, the current should drop to zero, but you shoudl get an amp or so when they are closed.

Just some thoughts. Tinker, tinker, and you'll get results.
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Old 09-09-2010, 05:10 PM
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Old 09-10-2010, 02:29 PM
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Troubleshooting ignition

Click on the trouble shooting igniton next to my name . Only one line of it is mine. There is a lot of good information on this WIKI . Follow it through and you should get spark .
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Old 09-10-2010, 02:50 PM
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The only difference on a + ground system is reverse the tests when they call out the coil terminals. It is the plus side that should be pulsing on a positive ground system
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Old 09-10-2010, 03:30 PM
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Is super agitated. don't see what the problem could be, still no spark. Is giving up for the day.
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Old 09-10-2010, 05:47 PM
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well by following the tests given on the "troubleshooting ignition" post someone suggested earlier, my points are not closing. the light dims but does not flash on and off. it dims and gets bright with the turning rythm of the starter. My distributor does not have a ground according to the wiring diagram, and don't have electronic module. Hopefully thats it, thats easy enough to fix, ran out of daylight today and no garage.
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Old 09-10-2010, 05:58 PM
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Hi Sarah,
What have you tried since you posted? what kind of car are you working on?
Rich
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Old 09-10-2010, 06:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spepin
well by following the tests given on the "troubleshooting ignition" post someone suggested earlier, my points are not closing. the light dims but does not flash on and off. it dims and gets bright with the turning rythm of the starter. My distributor does not have a ground according to the wiring diagram, and don't have electronic module. Hopefully thats it, thats easy enough to fix, ran out of daylight today and no garage.
Make sure the points are actually closing and make sure the plate that the points mount to is connected to ground which in you case is +
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