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Old 07-19-2009, 02:57 PM
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ignition problems

Hey guys, i got a 1977 ford f150 with a 351 modified. has had a starting problem since b4 i got it. i got it to start but ran like crap so i checked the timing. it was off so i set it right. lined up the mark on balancer checked #1 cylinder valves were closed. pointed cap at #1 wire it started and ran for like 2 minutes and then it shut down like i shut it off. played with the distributer to fine tune the timing it wouldn't run again for more than 30 seconds. the coil was extremely hot. i replaced it. wont start at all now. the ignition module was replaced by previous owner. the timing seems to be off again. what is an easy way to check timing chain without tearing engine apart. and what else could the problem be

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Old 07-19-2009, 08:10 PM
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Back to basics. Drag out your voltmeter and switch it to DC volts. Turn the ignition switch on. Red lead to coil+, black lead to ground. Any voltage showing? If no, check for voltage at the switch from battery. If yes, switch faulty. If no, open wire from battery. If voltage present with switch on, have your buddy turn the ignition switch to start. Any voltage showing? Same procedure. Work backwards until you find the problem.

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Old 07-19-2009, 08:42 PM
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sorry I should have said that all the voltage readings checked out good, as well as most of the the resistance tests according to the chiltons manual. I've had some backfires through the carb and it kinda wants to start just wont stay running for more than a few seconds, and the coil gets really hot. one thing I am having a hard time checking is the magnetic pickup, the book says it should have more than 70,000 ohms between either of the two parallel terminals and engine ground but when I check my meter says O.L which means out of range or open circuit i am not sure which it is referring to.
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Old 07-19-2009, 09:54 PM
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you can get an idea of the timing chain looseness, buy turning the crank shaft pulley back and forth,using a flex handle and socket on the crankshaft pulley bolt, just a very little movement back and forth, and you should be able to feel when you start to turn the cam, thusly just taking up the slack in the chain, you should only be able to it about an inch max
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Old 07-19-2009, 11:31 PM
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Check to make sure the pin in the distributor drive gear hasnt sheared off. If it breaks it will run fine until the gear slips and then it wont run anymore. You can reset it all you want and it will keep doing it until you replace the pin. However just replacing the pin might not fix it, it may break the pin again. The oil pump could be getting kinda stiff and hard to turn causing undue stress on that pin.
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