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  #1 (permalink)  
Old 12-18-2003, 09:07 AM
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Ignition Switch?? or what

Year 1966
Make Ford
Model Mustang
Condition (very clean, recently restored)

Got a 66 mustang that was having some ignition switch problems. You would crank the car then let it go back to on and the guages wouldn't come on unless you wiggled it a little. I think this was a bad switch and it has since been replaced but, i'm still having problems with my guages. The Gas guage is half a tank when i have a full tank, the oil pressure doesn't even register nor does the engine temperature. the amps are where they have always been, dead center.

any ideas on what could possibly be wrong... its not just 1 guage its 3 of them.. and of course the speedometer works because its not electrical heh

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Old 12-18-2003, 02:27 PM
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check the grounds going to the dash & also the plug that come through the fire wall behind the fuse box........joe
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Old 12-18-2003, 04:11 PM
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Checked and Checked again

I checked all the sending units and the wires leading to them.

All connections look good all the way to the main disconnect and all the grounds look good. The only issue that occured was the water temperature sending units ground didn't look too good. I spliced it and put a new connection on. Still the same problem.

Could it possibly be the constant voltage unit on the back of the dash guages/bezel?

and all guages respond... they just aren't correct

the fuel guage shows half a tank when its completely full and the oil pressure and water temperature show slight signs of movement.

any more posts would be greatly appreciated

by the way the fuse box isn't on the brake pedal on my 66... its connected to the left side of the car under the dash -- thought you oughta know (just for future reference)

Last edited by ponybuster; 12-18-2003 at 05:35 PM.
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Old 12-19-2003, 08:25 AM
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POST !

Recently within 2 days of the car being fixed (the points slipped)

a mechanic spliced the wire leading to the coil... which leads to the oil pressure sending unit and water temp sending unit

all looks well...... what could possibly be wrong?
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Old 12-19-2003, 10:43 AM
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One side of the IRV (instrument voltage regulator) will have 12v, the other side should have a pulsing voltage. Use your test lite to check it. Some systems use a constant 5v.
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Old 12-19-2003, 02:09 PM
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Voltage test

I checked all connections/ wires with my test light

The Accesory Fuse was blown in the fuse panel for the cigarette lighter. I replaced it with a sfe14 as the repair manual suggests.

All other fuses were good but, one fuse in the middle wasn't giving the test light any response. I can't seem to find a diagram telling me what this fuse leads to, but its the smallest fuse in the box and its in the middle-- any ideas what fuse this is? its not blown but sure doesn't give my test light a reading.

All my guages are messed up except for my speedometer -- which is not electrically operated. I took the bezel off the car yesterday and examined further to find out that my amneter is blown -- thats why it hasn't given any response ever, since i have owned the car. All guages are now reading high. A full tank of gas (way over F mark), High oil pressure (way over H), and high temperature (way over H)

I tested the wire leading from the coil to the oil pressure sending unit to the water temperature sending unit all the way up to the main disconnect (right at firewall) -- test light gives me a good reading all the way there.

By the way, this is the 5 guage instrument panel

Fuel Oil Pressure Speedometer amneter water temperature

if you guys need pictures to figure out whats going... i'm more than willing to post a few for ya

just please post!!

Last edited by ponybuster; 12-20-2003 at 07:32 AM.
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Old 12-20-2003, 05:44 PM
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boggled

Is there any way to tell if the constant voltage regulator is bad?

all my guages are way up~!! i looked for a hot wire grounding out somewhere behind the dash (a possibly cut wire) and couldn't find one... the test light shows the wires are fine all the way to the firewall... then after the firewall, i still get electricity all the way to the constant voltage regulator -- how do i know if this is bad?

i checked either side of it with a test light and both sides light it up... could it still possibly be bad even if it is giving out electricity? possibly too much electricity making the guages read wrong? is there any way to find out other than just replacing it?

all these guages have a few things in common

1. they all began reading wrong at the same time
2. they all are hooked up to the constant voltage regulator
3. they are all in the same electricity line -- (black and green wire)

i have checked all grounds!!! everything checks out ok!? i'm really stumped on this one guys... please post!!!
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Old 12-22-2003, 12:56 AM
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No other wires shoud be connected to the coil wire except for a tach (neg side) or radio suppressor + of the coil. Back feeds. The gauge resistor usualy has battery voltage on one side and a 1 1/2 one the other to the gauges. Since all the gauges are messed up sounds like the resistor for the gauges. Ray
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Old 12-22-2003, 02:52 AM
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gauges

the gauges in your dash work off the resistance in the circut
the formular is v=i/r v=volts I=current r=resistance
what you need is a multimeter. to test the ohms(resistance)
and voltage your test light only tells you about 12 volts

our knowledge base has a great section on how stuff works

now the gauges read low before the spliced wire
after splicing they read way high
i would un splice the 12v shunt from the coil then look for the inital problem

it sounds like they are responding to the 12 shunt by going to tilt

so what you need is less volts going by the fomular up top
maybe the voltage reg is bad

i will do some checking and get back next 2 days

the gauges in your dash work off the resistance in the circut
the formular is v=i/r v=volts I=current r=resistance
what you need is a multimeter. to test the ohms(resistance)
and voltage your test light only tells you about 12 volts

our knowledge base has a great section on how stuff works

now the gauges read low before the spliced wire
after splicing they read way high
i would un splice the 12v shunt from the coil then look for the inital problem

it sounds like they are responding to the 12 shunt by going to tilt

so what you need is less volts going by the fomular up top
maybe the voltage reg is bad

i will do some checking and get back next 2 days
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Old 12-23-2003, 01:37 PM
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You may want to look at the printed circuit on the back of the instrument cluster housing. look very close for cracks where it is folded over and the connector plugs into the back. Also check the terminals on the connector and clean them if corroded. Any voltage loss due to a bad connection will mess up your gauge readings.
Good luck

Skidmark
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Old 12-27-2003, 11:56 PM
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Everything you've said so far seems to point directly to the "CVR" or constant voltage regulator on the back of the instrument cluster. When they fail, they don't just quit, they let no voltage though (no gauges) or let 12 volts through (all guages go to maximum). Then maybe back to normal. Sometimes all three symptoms within the space of a few minutes. The ammeter is wired completely separately from the rest of the gauges, CVR problems will not affect it. Besides, if your ammeter is like everybody else's 60's Mustang, who knows whether it's working or not anyway?
These things VERY commonly fail in 30-35 year old cars. So much so that they are commonly available at almost every classic Mustang parts vendor. Pretty sure you need to get one.
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Old 12-28-2003, 07:04 PM
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amp meters

amp meters are a great source of under dash fire
so much so that the gurus are tell ing us to leave them out when doing a rewire
an amp meter tells you only what is going through that circuit
so to show charge and discharge it must be in a series circuit
a volt meter tells you way more volts at rest, volts at idle before the alt cuts in volts at cruise yes they are slow (but safer) i know i can here you say i want my car original thats ok but according to Ron Francis of wire works its nice to have a ridgey didge muscle car but imagine it burnt to a crisp leave the amp meter out or convert it to volts
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Old 12-29-2003, 07:36 PM
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Knew I saw this somewhere. If you like you can build your own, more reliable version for cheap. This guy calls it an "IVR". One of us may be right. http://www.turbotbird.com/techinfo/ivr/Default.htm
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Old 12-29-2003, 09:17 PM
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knowledge base

can some body put that into the knowledge base thanks
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