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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 06-15-2012, 04:17 PM
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Maybe you dont have the rear brakes adjusted up properly.Combined with trapped air that hasnt bled out, it could be the whole issue.

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  #17 (permalink)  
Old 06-16-2012, 10:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by T-bucket23
What was the original issue you were having that they thought you needed a master and prop valve.
Please tell me it wasnt a Midas, Pepboys etc kind of place
No it was a local mechanic shop, I always knew they were a rip off shop. they wanted $150 to bleed the system! hahaha! and LA tech, how can i check the drums? Is it true that I can reverse the car 3 times and hit the brakes each time?
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Old 06-16-2012, 10:33 PM
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the prop valve evens presure from side to side on the fronts. They dont really go bad. and as long as there are no leaks. the piston should have a pintle that moves in / out when you are operating the bleed procedure. Or not.

Start the engine for power brakes

You need to bleed with a person pumping the pedal 4-5 times nipple closed. say hold down. crack and hold down. close and say up. Start at the fartherest point and work to the closest line.

No magic to brakes it is just the basics.

How old are the hydraulic rubber lines to the calipers. If they have blockages or cracks replace them . Flappers are bad and will cause pulling and failure.

Goodluck with the girl. Your are the gas , she is he brakes. that is another story.
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Old 06-16-2012, 10:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spinn
the prop valve evens presure from side to side on the fronts. They dont really go bad. and as long as there are no leaks. the piston should have a pintle that moves in / out when you are operating the bleed procedure. Or not.

Start the engine for power brakes

You need to bleed with a person pumping the pedal 4-5 times nipple closed. say hold down. crack and hold down. close and say up. Start at the fartherest point and work to the closest line.

No magic to brakes it is just the basics.

How old are the hydraulic rubber lines to the calipers. If they have blockages or cracks replace them . Flappers are bad and will cause pulling and failure.

Goodluck with the girl. Your are the gas , she is he brakes. that is another story.
Ok so I should leave the car on when bleeding? The car does have power brakes. And yeah the date is the day after tomorrow and I hope it gets done
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Old 06-17-2012, 07:26 AM
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If the rear brakes are not adjusted right you are losing quite a bit of your stopping power. Most brakes of this vintage self adjust when you brake hard when backing up, but some adjust when you apply the emergency brake. However, you need to verify that the self-adjusting mechanism is really working right.

The adjuster uses a ratcheting mechanism that moves the brake shoes closer to the drums as you apply the brakes while backing up, and the adjuster pivots and engages the next notch in the mechanism. It depends on all the parts moving freely and all the springs pulling enough to activate the mechanism. Since the entire adjuster is also surrounded by a cloud of brake dust in the drum, it can get dirty and not move freely.

Check the brake lines (as already suggested) and make sure they are not soft, since you will lose pressure if they expand.

Also take the front calipers off and look at the pistons and the slide pins and mechanism. If the front caliper does not slide you will be applying pressure from the piston only on one side, and the the pad on the other side (which should slide over and apply pressure to the other pad) is doing very little. If its not sliding you will usually see much more wear on the pad next to the piston.

Bruce
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Old 06-18-2012, 12:00 AM
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Thanks Bruce, something else I noticed was that I was driving today, and then i had my brake pedal held down halfway and then the pedal felt pretty light and if i touched it, it would sink very slightly..is this another meaning of a bad master cylinder?
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Old 06-18-2012, 06:51 PM
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From your last post, I'm not sure exactly what you are describing. If you hold your foot down on the brake pedal while stopped it may move down slightly as you press harder. However, it should not move down very far, because that would mean the master cylinder seal or your brake lines are not holding pressure.

With a bad master cylinder the pedal often immediately sinks almost to the floor as you press on it. You can sometimes pump the pedal and get it to provide some braking power. However, if the piston seal blows/tears completely you may lose all braking power.

Pushing the pedal down too far (like to the floor) when bleeding the brakes can push the seal beyond the ridge of dirt that has built up over time in the cylinder. This rough ridge may tear the edge of the seal and cause it to fail very quickly.

Once a master cylinder starts to go bad you may lose braking power very quickly. It does not give you a lot of time to get to the mechanic. I've had one go from "poor stopping power" to "zero stopping power" during a 10-12 mile drive to a repair shop.

Bruce
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Old 06-19-2012, 01:05 AM
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Alright thanks heaps Bruce, and I should use a 1/4inch OD tuning right? I still went on the date with the Girl with the brakes and she loved the car . But anyways, im gunna have to bleed it Wednesday since I had something come up, just want to make sure, but should i use s 1/4inch Outside Diameter tuning or 3/8?
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Old 06-19-2012, 05:44 AM
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I assume you are talking about the tubing you use when bleeding. You want a flexible line with a tight fit on the bleeder valve, so 1/4" should work better. It should also be as short as you can reasonably make it, since that reduces the volume of air in the tube.

Buy/borrow the right flare nut wrench to turn the bleeders. The bleeders are small and fragile, and you need to have the flare nut wrench that wraps around them. They are nearly impossible to remove with a standard open end wrench, since it just rounds off the bleeder screw edges without moving it. I would also spray the fitting with penetrating lubricant ahead of time to make it easier to break loose. Even if you are careful, you may screw up a bleeder and have to extract and replace it. Make sure the car is parked somewhere that it can sit for a while if the job goes bad.

Fill the master cylinder reservoir almost the top with brake fluid, and leave the cap off. Start at the wheel that is farthest from the master cylinder.
With the tube end in a jar of brake fluid (use clear tubing and a clear jar) you will have an assistant pump the pedal and then hold it down. As you release the bleeder screw you will see brake fluid coming into the tubing. Keep pressure on the pedal, and allow the tubing to fill with fluid until it reaches the jar and there are no bubbles showing in the jar. Close the bleeder valve and leave the tube in the jar of fluid. Now have your assistant pump up the pedal again and you repeat the bleeding process. You must repeat the process until you get no more air. Then do the other three wheels. Go through the complete cycle of bleeding each wheel at least twice. Ensure the master cylinder reservoir always has fluid.

If the brake fluid you are bleeding out looks extremely dark you may want to buy additional fluid and try to flush the system completely as part of your bleeding. In that case you would keep bleeding each wheel until you get very clear (new) fluid coming out of the bleeder. I'm not sure how much fluid you would need to buy to replace what is in the system.

There are also one-man brake bleeders that pressurize the system for you, and you might be able to borrow one from Autozone or another retailer. However, I've never used one so I can't tell you how well they work.

Bruce

Last edited by 75gmck25; 06-19-2012 at 05:57 AM.
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Old 06-20-2012, 12:47 PM
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Thanks Bruce, you've really helped out and made it super clear..Its much appreciated!
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Old 06-20-2012, 08:03 PM
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I fixed the brakes! There was A TON of air in it!
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  #27 (permalink)  
Old 06-20-2012, 09:04 PM
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I'm glad it worked out for you. Good brakes are essential if you want to be comfortable with cruising around in your car.

Bruce
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