I'm getting small bubbles/specs when I spray Clear Coat - Page 2 - Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board
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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 07-01-2011, 12:28 PM
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ok thats also what i was kinda thinking Jim, perhaps the wind played a factor after all. Anyways im going to wet sand and if i cant get rid of them ill just reshoot. Thanks for all your advice guys.
John

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Old 07-01-2011, 05:10 PM
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If you sand thru the clear you could have other problems when trying to re-coat the clear. Again I cannot speak to the other potential issues you may have with you underlayment, but based on a careful anlysis of your post, so far, I think your underlayment problems, if they exist, would not show up at this point. I think, at this point, due to the nature of the limitations of a forum such as this it's difficult to give precise and exact suggestions on how to procede. You might post pics, but in the end you will need to decide because you have more info than we do since you have "eyes on" and details you may not have provided which are revelant but may not seem important to you but necessary for an online analysis of the problem. I would hate for you to take some advice given here, well meaning as it may be, where none of us have actually had "eyes on" the problem. Is there someone locally who you consider an expert, to come and look at and discuss your issues? This would be my best council. If I were there and could see first-hand and talk with you I would feel confident on the advice I could give you. The written word has many limitations in communicating precisely which one wishes to express. There are many issues at play here, film build, tip size, spray tecknick, underlayment, prep, to name a few.

A pro needs to examine your clear coat flaws with a magnifying glass to give you useful advice in my humble opinion.

Jim
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Old 04-09-2013, 05:33 AM
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hi im alex from greece and i have a question for u boys ive paint my first car peugeot 106 with 2 tones metal flake and flames....is my car i am not a painter....all was perfect i put on top 5 litters of clear coat...i sand it...and i think to put one more layer over top....but i buyed new clear and i paint gest small part to repair a small portion and all the new clear have make bubbles small bubbles i have clean it well and 1 hour leave for flash every layer....the new clear is not expired is gonna expired in 2014 what is the problem....is the same mark but diferent code on bottle....any ideas?i shood must go back to give it or was my mistake...?
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Old 04-09-2013, 11:39 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fordSR View Post
In your original post, you mentioned the front of the car had bubbles and the rear didn't. You also mentioned "no wind" when you sprayed the rear. IMHO there is your answer. The wind caused the front to skim over trapping solvents and causing bubbles or solvent pops. I don't claim to be a pro but I do have a nice home-made spray booth with exhaust fan and front to rear air movement. I never turn on the fan until I'm done spraying the clear (each coat) and then only long enough to evacuate the booth, then the fan is off.

I use SPI clears and I cannot speak to the other brands of clears, but if I were using PPG, Dupont, or? I would use the same approach. In addition I always give myself a little extra flash time between coats, more is better than not enough.

Other posters have commented on other issues you may have and I cannot speak to those, but solvent pops can be difficuly to fix especially if you have many of them. If you applied three coats, the pops likely occured from solvent in the first coat so you may have a crator all the way to the first coat. Depending on how much film build you have in the clear, I would sand with a hard block and 1000 grit wet, roll it outside in the sun for 6 or 8 hours, then apply two more coats of clear.

Solvent pops are a pain in the ***

Jim
Jim, in my opinion you hit the nail on the head. The dead giveaway was the garage door being open with a breeze when painting the front, causing the solvent pops and no breeze when painting the rear of the car and minimal solvent popping there.

This is how solvents work in automotive paints. When you apply a solvent based catalyzed paint product the solvents need to evaporate. Before they evaporate the travel downwards until they hit hit metal. Paint is designed to work this way to give you "chemical adhesion". When the solvents hit the metal, they start to travel up and out of the paint, while this is happening, you have more air flow than what you need (because the door is open) and the catalyst or hardner is doing it's job by curing the clear but, the breeze is causing the clear to cure on top and not curing all the way through the layer of clear. The solvents are still going to come out, only now they need to break through the clear that is already starting to cure on top.

The same type of thing can happen if you don't have any air movement. Without air movement there is nothing to carry the evaporated solvents away from the painted surface and they just hang around there, not allowing the rest of the solvent to get out of the clear...and eventually causing the clear to pop.

There is a line between to much air movement and not enough, if that line is crossed in either direction, this is the problem that can occur.

Hope this helps.
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Old 04-09-2013, 08:08 PM
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correct paint

I found using same paint, thinners,and wipe to be the best way to stay away from such problems. I've tried differant paints and coatings and they all apply differantly.I'm by no way a pro but years of mistakes ,i've learned whats best for me has been shooting w/a good gun ie.Sharp,Binks etc,and I only use PPG (my personal favorite)it lays down so good and the clear is excellant but your Temp.on the Reducers is very important.Dont know if any of this helps---I HATE BUBBLES SO MUCH--LOT'S OF SANDING--WISH I WAS A REAL PRO AT TIMES. OH WELL KEEP SEARCHING AND GOOD LUCK
BILL
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  #21 (permalink)  
Old 04-09-2013, 09:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Abyssking View Post
hi im alex from greece and i have a question for u boys ive paint my first car peugeot 106 with 2 tones metal flake and flames....is my car i am not a painter....all was perfect i put on top 5 litters of clear coat...i sand it...and i think to put one more layer over top....but i buyed new clear and i paint gest small part to repair a small portion and all the new clear have make bubbles small bubbles i have clean it well and 1 hour leave for flash every layer....the new clear is not expired is gonna expired in 2014 what is the problem....is the same mark but diferent code on bottle....any ideas?i shood must go back to give it or was my mistake...?
I'm sorry to tell you that it was your mistake, but you let it flash to long. One hour flash time is about 40 to 45 minutes to long. What has happened is that the clear has set up to a point that if you put more clear on it, the 2 coats of clear can't flow in together and the second coat of clear is opening up the first coat, causing it to start popping...or bubbling.

The way to test clear for flash time is to touch a piece of masking paper close to where you just applied fresh clear. When that clear is sticky but not wet, it's time for another coat of clear. If the clear is wet, it's to soon, if the clear leaves finger marks but doesn't have sticky stringy feeling when you touch the masked area, it's to late. You may as well let it cure, sand it and reclear it. That would be easier that trying to sand all the little solvent pops out or bubbles.

I hope this helps.

Ray
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