[Iroc'o]

How cold are your temps, maybe your getting frost buildup in the carb, might need a makeshift warmair duct from a manifold. Just a thought.

[blown69stang]

If the cam can go flat it has probably happened to me. At this point I think anything bad could happen to me. When I started it up this afternoon, gauge showed 6 psi, completely different than the 2 psi that was showing this morning. This had no effect what so ever though- ran the same. No the temp would not be the problem because it does the same thing when hot just not a severe. When it gets warm, I can go more than 20 mph but it still pops (not backfires, more of a hiccup) and has very little power. When I have been driving for 20 minutes it still is not sound running but is smoothed out some. If I give it more gas to keep up with traffic from a light, it bogs and sounds like it is starved. I can't figure out what is going on. I have stock fuel pumps that have been sitting in the garage for a while. I am thinking about trying both of them to see if the pump is the cause but I'm worried that the diaphrams are dried and cracked and won't function properly either. I order another brand of fuel gauge so I will try that one. If it is the fuel pump, I am thinking about going the electric way. Any thoughts, recommendations, concerns, tips for electric? Thanks for all the help guys; I am just now beginning to calm down but every time I go out and start it up, I get more frustated. I actually had my pistol and was about to open up on it this morning but held back.

[mustang66maniac]

Take a valve cover off and crank it or start it. If the rocker arms are dancin around pretty good, then you didnt flatten your cam.

[one off]

hi my name is scot
there is a simple process of eleminating possibilities if you simply follow a step by step process. i think we all have been where you're at.
first thing you want to do is make sure your engine is in good shape check as suggested valve lash if the cam is flat you can feel that with your fingers the rockers will be very loose and noisy. we can get more specific if we have to on the how to. give me a call i can't get to this bulliten very often will be glad to help. next do a compression test. after that you may want to ask your engine builder some vaccum spec on the cam, check ign, wires and so on. i will try to get back this eve. got to go thanks

[blown69stang]

Here is the chronologic order of the things I have done after it started acting this way. After each failed to correct the problem or tested fine, I continued to next step.
1. Checked and changed Fuel Filter,
2. Checked Fuel Pressure- was fine 6 months ago but not now,
3. Check Timing-Stock Distributor timing: 13deg. intitial, 32 deg. mech total, 43 vac. total,
4. Check Plugs- all fine with very little carbon.,
5. Replaced Plugs and Wires,
6. Replaced cap and rotor,
7. Replaced Distributor-MSD Pro Billet R-T-R timing: 14deg intitial, 35 total mech, 46 total vac,
8. Replaced plugs again.
9. Replaced Carburetor-from Holley 600cfm vac secondaries to Speed Demon 650 Vac Secondaries Electric choke,
10. Changed Jets and springs on carb adjustments- worked for one week then problem came back
11. Checked all lines for fuel leaks- none execpt after I changed the fuel filter again, tightened and it stopped.

So that is what I have done. In between a couple of steps, I replaced the fuel gauge twice (three different gauges used). I have another gauge order and am thinking about the Carter rotary electric pump- 7psi 72gph. Any feelings about this pump? I don't have the tools to test the compression but my last garage can. I noticed that I have to put about 1 quart of oil in the engine every two weeks more or less.

[Mr.56Chevy]

Actually those are the people who work in Kragens.

[johnsongrass1]

Ever check the fuel pump eccentric on the front of the cam?. They can come loose and spin causing erratic fuel delivery. (assuming this is a Chevrelet). Might be the heat that loosens the bolt enough to spin(sometimes).

[roys63]

[quote]Originally posted by johnsongrass1:
<strong>Ever check the fuel pump eccentric on the front of the cam?. They can come loose and spin causing erratic fuel delivery. (assuming this is a Chevrelet). Might be the heat that loosens the bolt enough to spin(sometimes).</strong><hr></blockquote>

Not on a chevy it is driven by the cam with a push rod!!

[73 Nova Guy]

yup!

[roys63]

It may be something as simple as sediment in the tank blocking the pickup filter after running awhile. Where is your inline filter?

[ March 04, 2003: Message edited by: KULTULZ ][/QB][/QUOTE]

I'am with him ! Time to pull the tank!

[one off]

hi
don't want to chew you out but you're going to spend an awfull lot of money on this problem unless you get a little more sensible about what your doing. seems to me your having all this work done. if you are go some place else because they don't know what there doing.if you don't have the basic tools like a compression tester buy one and do the work yourself,it's cheeper than having it done.that oil problem could be serious,check the pcv.there are so many things that can cause your problem you and without the details it's hard to -dognose* best way for you is to eliminate the major possibiliies and work your way down to the real problem. good luck

[johnsongrass1]

I didn't mean Chevrelet, I meant Buick. I was trying to explian somthing to someone else and apparently got confused.

Anyway, I didnt want to be the only one who was wondering why you keep paying someone else to do the work. Who are you paying anyway? Someone worth paying should be able to narrow things down a bit and at least give you an idea of what happening. I'm really starting to think it's all related to fuel pressure. Something gotta be wrong in the pump or fuel lines.

[blown69stang]

Not to be sarcastic but is my name has not already given you a clue, it is a 69 mustang. Yes a Ford, and it a has a 351W bored .030 over. And about the lecture on how much money I am going to spend because I don't feel like doing it myself: I have only had the car into a garage for tuning and diagnostic services. I have to my best ability tried to figure out what it was. Before I took the car in each time, I thoroughly examined all possibilities until there was nothing else I could do with my skill. If I did pull the valve covers off to check the cam, I wouldn't know what to look for because I haven't ever experienced this situation. I changed the fuel pump, filters, fuel lines, carburetor, distributor, plugs, wires, and everything else that has gone on there. I even tuned it to an exent. I only took it in because no matter how much I messed with it, I couldn't better the situation. If I was too lazy to do any work on the car and only take it in "when it sounds funny," Then I wouldn't spend some evenings working on it from 6pm to 2am. Yeah I have worked on it for 8 hours several times. So I am not spending money uselessly because I don't want to do any work; I do that because I wasn't able to make a difference by what I was doing and I don't feel that my skill can be trusted as well as a professional mechanic.

In regard to the three different garages, I have used them all at the same time. I took it first to the guy that built the engine and when he didn't know what to do/couldn't fix it/didn't feel like working on it anymore, I took it to the guy who usually works on my business vehicles. When he couldn't do it, I took it to another race shop. Each time I told them what had been done and they checked the previous and tried something else. So yeah maybe I should have stayed with the first guy but when he shrugged off my problem as "because of the way I drive" even though he doesn't know how well I have treated this car, I was pretty pissed. The reason I left the second guy was that he openly admitted that he dealt primarily with new computer controller cars but would do his best without guaranteed results, I took it to the last place. The last group of guys runs cirle track and drag racing. They have only had their hands on it once and have a really good attitude about it. They are the only garage that I have been to that doesn't mind the owner helping them out in the shop area.

[Super Streeter]

Here is something to check.Look for rust sludge in the carb or fuel filter.A rusty gas tank will cause this problem.When the engine is off the scale settles off of the pickup sock,but after startup it will clog the sock in short order.Most carbs require a little choke adjustment when the weather changes,but that only effects cold start drivabilty.Another thing to watch is fuel blends.winter fuel blends are somewhat different then summer blends and most gas companies assume that all cars are fuel injected these days and that they will automatically compensate for the change in fuel weight,but a carb wont do this.If the problem isnt rust in the tank,I would try different fuel.I know that winter blend pump gas makes my fuel pressure go thru the roof.If I set up engine up on race gas and set the fuel pressure to 9 psi the car runs fine and a tad lean.If I blend in summer blend pump gas the car will run fatter and have about 2 psi more fuel pressure.I now have straight sunoco 94 winter blend in the tank since I wanted to improve cold starting of my race engine over the winter no racing months{I drive it on the street a bit rather then winterize the engine}.With the sunoco 94 I cant get the fuel pressure guage to go below 15 psi and I had to turn the pressure down just to keep the carb from flooding.I have never heard of winter blend reducing fuel pressure,but my pressure is regualted by a regualtor,not pump flow,so it is posible that a low pressure pump might have the opposite problem of my setup.Good luck,and dont do anything stupid.

[Mr. Windsor]

The oil consumption you mentioned makes me wonder if the diaphram in your fuel pump might not have a hole in it. That could affect the efficiency of the pump, and cause you to lose oil as well.

Just a thought.