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Old 11-18-2006, 11:59 AM
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increasing lift capability on Vortecs

I know Vortecs are limited to about .477" lift in stock form. I've read about machining the guide bosses to accept more lift since the retainer hits first.

Now I'm reading about vortecs that are advertised to be set up for .550" lift using springs without machining the bosses. Is that possible, or are they just yanking our chain? Is it a taller valve or retainer swap?

I guess what I'm asking is... what are the accepted methods for increasing valve lift room on vortecs?

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Old 11-18-2006, 12:53 PM
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The first page of the attached thread has most of the information your looking for. This is a good thread on Vortecs.

http://www.nastyz28.com/forum/showth...ghlight=vortec
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Old 11-18-2006, 02:16 PM
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I think I've seen drop in replacment vortec springs good for .550 lift but were kinda pricey..........

I found this

Isky 235-D spring which has 135 at the seat @1.750 and is good for 550 lift and we have
had very good luck with these springs as you can use the stock Vortec retainer and you
don't have to cut the spring pockets either.






increase the lift potential with the Vortecs. Install the comp cams beehive springs p/n
CCA-26918-16. There a lil pricy @ $180.00, but you can get .600 lift without a problem.
You'll need to install threaded studs though to handle the spring loads though.


http://www.sallee-chevrolet.com/fram...ds/Vortec.html


Inserted by Sallee Chevrolet



The Sallee Chevrolet solution is to use Crane Cam’s 10309-1 drop-in valve
spring and retainer kit which is good for .550” lift with no machining.
The installed height for this Crane Cams kit is taller and the lower part
of the retainer is shorter. The “AVERAGE” clearance between the retainer and seal is .575” for this kit. We have found that some of the Vortec heads,
coming from the factory, do not have the valve seals driven on all the way.
You need to check that they are before installing this kit. If they need to
be driven on all the way, we have found that a 3/8” drive - 1/2” socket fits the valve seal just about perfect. As with all modifications to performance engines though, you should always measure to assure that there is proper clearance and fit.


Mustangsaly
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Old 11-18-2006, 03:48 PM
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another article http://www.carcraft.com/techarticles...pring_upgrade/










Mustangsaly
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Old 11-18-2006, 04:02 PM
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We used these springs several years ago with aftermarket locks/retainers and did machine the guides down .125 and ran .533 lift cam with no issues... But I dropped down to a .510/.488 lift cam and gained power... Vortec`s just work well with about .500 lift and not much more...
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Old 11-18-2006, 05:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mustangsaly
I think I've seen drop in replacment vortec springs good for .550 lift but were kinda pricey..........

I found this

Isky 235-D spring which has 135 at the seat @1.750 and is good for 550 lift and we have
had very good luck with these springs as you can use the stock Vortec retainer and you
don't have to cut the spring pockets either.
Mustangsaly
I believe I wrote that some where and we have found that the Vortecs react more to duration then lift and on some our circle track engines with a 600 HP .875 lifter solid flat tappet cam 11:01 compression wet sump engine we have seen dyno numbers up to 518 horse and around 480 on the torque and this was acheived with a 1.940 intake valve with the proper bowl work and a good valve job and a little work on the short side radius.
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Old 11-18-2006, 05:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CNC BLOCKS N/E
I believe I wrote that some where and we have found that the Vortecs react more to duration then lift and on some our circle track engines with a 600 HP .875 lifter solid flat tappet cam 11:01 compression wet sump engine we have seen dyno numbers up to 518 horse and around 480 on the torque and this was acheived with a 1.940 intake valve with the proper bowl work and a good valve job and a little work on the short side radius.

CNC BLOCKS N/E,

you could of very well wrote that. I read it some where and put in my vortec head info file.

does a guy get more out of a vortec headed 400hp 355cid with stock valves and some proper bowl work and a good valve job than with a vortec head with 2.02 1.60s?



Mustangsaly
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Old 11-18-2006, 08:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mustangsaly
CNC BLOCKS N/E,

you could of very well wrote that. I read it some where and put in my vortec head info file.

does a guy get more out of a vortec headed 400hp 355cid with stock valves and some proper bowl work and a good valve job than with a vortec head with 2.02 1.60s?
Mustangsaly
We have found that the biggest intale valve for the 906 casting is 2.000 valve and by going to a 2.020 intake does notheing on the flow bench and going to the bigger valves they seem to crack across the deck of the head.

We have done a few 355's for the street 11:01 compression hyd. cam light weight componets and have seen 432 horse and 460 on the torque and with the light weight parts these engine feel like they have 600 foot pounds of torque.

We have found that the new Mexican casting have smaller runners then the older 906 castings and make less HP do to the smaller runners.

The new Vortec Bowtie heads with the big runners are hard to beat as we have seen some good dyno numbers using these heads.

This engine in the pic is a circle track engine 13:5 compression 50 MM roller cam the stroke is 3.340 and the bore is 4.140 and a 750 carb and these heads were worked pretty hard, Crower rods and crank, CP pistons and dry sump this engine made 639 horse and 514 on the torque so there is a lot potential using the Votec Bowtie heads.
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Old 11-19-2006, 08:42 AM
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it is said, that the seats don't even need to be cut. just use the old style of valve seals. .550 sould be no problem. i cut mine, because i liked the new style seals.

COMP CAMS 270AHR , 270 276 215 220, .500 .510 114° . beehive springs & 10* keepers. ported vortec heads. intercooled V2 SQ VORTECH blower.
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Old 11-19-2006, 09:31 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vortech 4.3
it is said, that the seats don't even need to be cut. just use the old style of valve seals. .550 sould be no problem. i cut mine, because i liked the new style seals.
We cut all our own seats as the factory seats are not where we like themand our seat geometry is a lot different then the factory uses as we also go in with a bowl hog and remove material from the bowls for a lot better flow and we always cut the top of the guides as most of the cams we use in our engines are form .560 to .590 lift even though the heads are done flowing around .520 lift we can get the valve to .500 lift a lot faster using the bigger cams and most of our engines we use the Ford lifters and some of the .904 AMC lifter on the flat tappet cam engines we build.
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Old 11-19-2006, 11:03 AM
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Great info and links, thanks. This is for my boat, so duration can't be too hefty. They are 906s with a light pocket porting and the cam I want to use is a Comp grind XM264 212/218 .488 .495 on a 112° LSA. I just thought if I'm going for more lift I might as well get plenty in case I change cams down the road.

Thanks for the info, I just wanted to make sure that a spring change was a viable way to get more lift or if it was the cheapy way
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