I'm assembling the parts for a '31 Ford rod (no fender, Ford flatty, roadster). The frame will be an aftermarket "A." I built a '31 3-window in high school (mid 50's) and didn't love the front suspension (hated it actually). Now I'm retired, have time and can afford better parts. Anybody done an A with independent suspension ? I see several versions using the Mustang II/Heidt set up and a couple of kits using fabricated upper/lower arms (Kugel Komponents). I would appreciate feedback from someone who has done it. I would very much like a picture (from the front) of what it looks like.
Buzz (MoonBat)
Thanks guys.
Techinspector1: I have seen the "Irelandschild" photo before on Yahoo. It looks well made and attractive. Any idea what it is ?
The "hotrodsandhemis" frame looks like a MustangII/Heidts.
The "hotrodsplans" photo is an example of everything I'm trying to avoid. I imagine the builder is proud of it but "ugh" and "ly" leap to mind.
Hcompton: I have not heard of using the Corvette suspension in an "A." I'll add it to my research plans. Thanks. I will try to enclose a few pics:
(yellow) TCI
(red w/ red kingpin) Heidt
(red w/stainless kingpin) Kugel
AHA - my name appears again. Thanks Richard
It is a Stage 3 TCI with a couple changes, i.e chromed sprngs. Just remember, an independent front suspension is out there for all to see particularly on a fenderless car. If it isn't well thought out, really doesn't look good. As far as spring rates, whatever AFCO offers. It is also rear steer - i.e. no lump in the splash shield.
I've been through the must ll thing since I built my car in '03.
There are a couple A bones in the cruise groups I run around in. They ride nice but firm. Even a couple roadster, again firm but they like it that way. It's better than stock that's for sure and they do handle nicely.
The Must ll has a short travel, this, in most cases limits you to 4 spring rates. The lightest is 375 pound per inch. This is pretty stiff for a light A bone. The "standard" QA 1 single adjustable shock is also valved for heavier cars. Therefore plan on running the front shocks at the "0" setting. You can try moving up later. You absolutely must set the front end up with the lower A arm parallel to the ground ready to cruise. You can use 2 in dropped spindles to get the car lower. Alignment shops can work with this set up.
Now, the alternative is to cut the top out of the spring tower large enough for a straight spring shock, weld in a pair of mounts so you can use longer rod end shocks. This opens the door to all kinds of spring rates. You can get lower control arms suitable for this. You can get the proper A arms at Speedway to..just look a little. Were I to do it over this is the route I'd take. You live and learn. You can see how this is set up on the opening of the site below.
My front end weighs more than even a full fender A bone and I'm using the tapered coil Must ll front end. The shocks are at "0" and I've had them revalved softer....still too stiff, in my mind. I've talked with QA 1 at length as well as Fat man.
Don't be afraid to talk to the mfg. Also when you get ready for shocks make sure you get "streetrod" shocks, not road race or drag versions.
You can see in these how the top of the shock mounts so a rod end can be used. Again straight springs with unlimited rates and longer shocks. Most companies allow you exchange springs if you don't damage them.
If you are looking for lighter springs for your Mustang2 front end, you may try EatonDetroitSpring They have 23 different spring rates for the Mustang2 setup. the lowest one listed is 279#. They can also custom make what you need.
When I was an engineer at Ford I printed out the engineering specs on the springs for a guy that was racing minni stock,, I wish I had kept a copy ..It gave spring rates, free length application by options on the car and the resulting ride height.
When I was an engineer at Ford I printed out the engineering specs on the springs for a guy that was racing minni stock,, I wish I had kept a copy ..It gave spring rates, free length application by options on the car and the resulting ride height.
What rack and pinion do you have, I have a 31 ford roadster with TCI Frame and my R&P went bad and I can't find what I need, the # on the R&P is 7841002
I remember some company that took a straight Axle split it in the middle. They attached bushing to the ends and made the center of the axle fixed to the frame in the middle, They did some roads tests and said it worked great.
My question would be why hasn't someone built a twin I beam type front end. I think that would not only look KOOL but drive nice too!
Rip,
It is possible to learn too much from one experience but:
I owned, and raced, a Lotus Eleven that had a split front axle. I was racing Vintage Sports Cars in California. At the old (fondly remembered) Riverside track there was a pedestrian overpass on the (long) back straight. Often, when there was wind, you would come out from the wind shadow at full chat and jump 6 feet sideways. As we said in high school, "I thought my pants would never dry !"
I am too old for that kind of excitement.
Best wishes,
Buzz (MoonBat)
The split front axle design was sold by, I believe, Fat Man Enterprises, 10 plus years ago. It didn't work or even sell well - I never have seen one and I was very active at that time in hot rodding. Others have tried it as well. CBOY Dewey, a member here made it work reasonably well and if I recall, described it in his eBook here too (see the top of this page and click on eBooks). Problem being is that camber is inconsistent making for skittish handling. The idea sounds great, but it appears only Ford made it work fairly well in '60s pickups
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