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Old 01-23-2012, 03:15 PM
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info needed on tig welding supplies to buy

hello all.

well lets start of by telling everyone that I am a rookie with the tig. so please dont make to much fun of me

I have a lincoln tig 175 pro (like this)


gas is pure argon.
cyl set to 20

most of my work will be for automotive stuff
eg intake manifold, brackets etc

I went with 3/32 tungsten since it seems like a good size for my kind of work.
ceramic cup size of size 7

for stainless steel I went with Ceriated

and for aluminum went with Zirconiated

first like to hear your thoughts on the gear I am planning to work with? did I get the right stuff?

from the little work I have been messing with stainless steel seems to be coming along. not great but getting there with practice.

aluminum I am having some trouble. not to clean of welds etc

I wanted to ask what is the correct amps setting to set tig machine at? for lets say 3/32-1/8 material

and also wanted to ask if I should use glass cups instead of the ceramic cups(pink)


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Last edited by jss; 01-23-2012 at 03:20 PM.
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Old 01-24-2012, 01:00 PM
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I have the exact same welder. I bought it new 10 years ago and it has served extremely well. You already have a good stock of consumables. This machine is very easy to use compared to some of the more advanced machines. I use it to it's limits all the time. BTW it can take 45 amps out of the wall so make sure you have a good 50 amp service. I also run mine with a 12k generator, which is about all it will run under load.

1/16 electrodes work a little better for material below 3/32 thick. I like the cerated electrodes for nearly everything.

I also like using gas lenses for everything I can, sometimes however you just have to have the smaller Pink stuff.

Steel use 70 s2 or 70 s6 rod. .045, 1/16, 3/32 and 1/8 will cover all but the thickest stuff you can easily weld with this machine. No need for chrome moly rod for any hotrod stuff.

Alum 1/16,3/32 4043 and 5356 rod will do almost all aluminum

Stainless use 1/16, 3/32 308L for most ss. I have some .045 and .023 also but don't even bother until you can work with steel and aluminum down to .045 thick.

I regularly do .015 ss molding for streetrods and it is a real challenge. I've been down to .010 with this machine and it can be done but you need everything just right.

Learn to weld with this machine and the more advanced machines will seem like they are too easy. haha.

I've welded 3/8 aluminum and 3/8 steel but you will run into duty cycle issues so stay away from the heavy stuff for now. No more than 1/4" 3/16 is best.

Practice on 3/32 and 1/8 steel until you can run nice beads.

edit: If I were you I'd stay away from SS until you really can control the puddle and the bead. SS is not something to learn on. Were I to teach I would have you do aluminum first. You must learn puddle control and bead control for this. Once you get it then everything else is easy.

I was taught TIG Welding to work under the bench not on it. Learning to weld aluminum overhead on your back running the pedal with any part of your body that wasn't holding the torch or rod was required. Left and right handed.

Last edited by bentwings; 01-24-2012 at 01:08 PM.
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Old 01-25-2012, 06:36 PM
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alot of great info thanks alot.

I did order some more aluminum rods today for filling. went with 4043 in 3/32 size and 1/8 just to have.

does anyone have a chart so i can get a better idea on amp setting based on material size?

I am having alot of hard time with aluminum welds. getting the puddle is no problem but the welds look dirty and not very bead like.. almost looks like to much heat/ melting happening
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Old 01-26-2012, 08:22 AM
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I'm real interested in this post also, since I have just recently purchased a Miller Synrowave 250 from the 80's that has less than a hundred hours on it. I have never Tiged before, so all info supplied would be great for me too.

liteweight
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Old 01-26-2012, 07:49 PM
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I have access to a brand new Syncrowave 250 with all the options. It's smooth running machine. I have many, many hours on one in industry. I've probably burned more rod in one year than most guys do in a lifetime.

JSS contrary to the way I would instruct hands on, for you trying to learn alone definitely start with 1/8 in cold rolled material, 3/32 electrodes, 1/16 and 3/32 70-S2 rod. The square wave start around 110 amps. go up or down a little untill you can comfortably start puddle. try advancing the puddle and sip the rod in at the leading edge. You need a rythmic motion. the beads should begin to look like a stack of dimes laid over. Try not to burn the metal.

Forget the aluminum for now. Without an instructor it will be a source of frustration. Learn the steel first. As you get better you can try some fillet welds. You have got to be able to control the puddle and the bead.

The syncrowave you can start a little higher amps. Each machine is a little different. I've used 200 amps on 1/8" going like crazy in production welding.
Post a picture of the syncrowave...I'd like to see the torch. If it's not a HW 20 water cooled ....might as well pony up for one, it's all you will ever need...I don't care what the weld shop guys tell you. I just had a nose to nose discussion with one and nearly sent the new SW back unless he swapped out the monster torch he gave me.
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Old 01-26-2012, 09:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bentwings
I have access to a brand new Syncrowave 250 with all the options. It's smooth running machine. I have many, many hours on one in industry. I've probably burned more rod in one year than most guys do in a lifetime.
The syncrowave you can start a little higher amps. Each machine is a little different. I've used 200 amps on 1/8" going like crazy in production welding.
Post a picture of the syncrowave...I'd like to see the torch. If it's not a HW 20 water cooled ....might as well pony up for one, it's all you will ever need...I don't care what the weld shop guys tell you. I just had a nose to nose discussion with one and nearly sent the new SW back unless he swapped out the monster torch he gave me.
I did some research on these old welders before I purchased the one I have now & the people I have spoke with are real happy with them. The torch that came with this is not watercooled, & since I want to get into some serious alloy welds,it looks like a new torch is in the near future. I'll definately look into the HW20 thanx
I just noticed there is a post here on a home made H2O system I'm going to check out after I submit this post.

liteweight
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Old 01-29-2012, 03:04 PM
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Here's a good source for torchs and supplies http://store.weldingdepot.com/cgi/we...t/WP20-12.html
This is a great torch for the money.
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