[Dannyringo]

Hello: I am looking at 2 kits to use on my motor with a Holley carb. One is the INNOVATE 3822 G5 WIDE-BAND AIR FUEL GAUGE LC-1 KIT

http://i1030.photobucket.com/albums/...BOlSkyf_12.jpg



They include a bung for the O2 sensor that is welded to the Header collector pipe, then the Bosch wide band O2 sensor is installed with the rest of the kit. This will give you the air/fuel ratio from inside the car.
The other kit is the Percy's Adjust a jet metering block that installs after the jets are removed from both primary and secondary metering blocks and their metering block is installed in front of the original, then float bowls reinstalled. Here is a video that I attached so that everyone can see how easy it would be without acess to a dyno.


http://www.percyshp.com/videos/AdjustAJet.html

I figure with both of these installed and since I travel within Arizona, from 300Ft above sea level, to well over 7,200Ft, this could prove very effective on a carb driven car...Especially when adding a Water/Methanol injection system like I already have built and installed...

http://www.motherearthnews.com/Do-It...on-System.aspx

I will probably not have the motor done until June, or July, but I will do a video if anyone is interested

[Dannyringo]

Has anyone used either of these products?

[Dannyringo]

Anybody? God, this set up takes the guess work out of wondering what your doing? At least look at the video~! You remove the jets out of the primary and secondary blocks and put the new block inbetween the float bowl and the original metering block...KEEP IT SIMPLE FOR STUPID~! Set the needle only finger tight, not crank it down with a torque wrench~! Then count off the required amount to get the original jets that were in the carb, then tune~! If you install the air/fuel gauge kit along with this, then you can literally tune on the fly~! Instead of the stop car, pull fuel bowls, read and replace jets, over and over and over and over, then claim the carb is messed up....Send back to Holley as they laugh at you for screwing up carb....Carb is then refurbished and sold on ebay where I buy carb and resell to next person...
Think about it..
I love capitalism and people that can't read instructions~!

[75gmck25]

I have the LC-1 with a digital gauge and have used it to tune my Edelbrock carburetor. With the Edelbrock you can swap out the springs and jets fairly quickly, and monitor the AFR to see the effect.

For example, when I feel the infamous Edelbrock part-throttle bog (which means you need a different step-up spring), I can also see the AFR go very lean (bog) and then suddenly rise and go to a normal AFR.

A couple of key points on the LC-1:
- The Bosch O2 sensor needs to be mounted as close to vertical as possible in the exhaust pipe to avoid water damage from condensation. The sensor is heated, so it can be mounted almost anywhere before the catalytic converter and still function properly.
- All ground wires in the LC-1 should connect to a common ground, and then you should have a wire from that ground point to the engine block. This ensures you get good AFR readings.

Bruce

[Dannyringo]

Thanks for the information on having the O2 sensor in that position...I was also curious as to where to place it, so I guess I could install it right after the collector on an intermediate pipe...I do not have cats on my vehicle, since it is that old.
Thanks for the update and ideas on installation...

[75gmck25]

The exhaust pipe coming off the collector should work fine. You can also buy collectors with an O2 bung already installed, but its probably cheaper to have one welded in to the straight pipe after the collector. The LC-1 kit includes the weld-in bung, so you just need to have a shop make a hole in the pipe (the guy I went to just used his torch), and then weld the bung into the top of the pipe.

You can install the bung and plug it with a bolt if you aren't ready to complete the installation. You should not leave the sensor installed in the pipe unless it is powered when the engine is running.

The LC-1 also includes instructions for a portable AFR meter installation. You put the sensor into a section of pipe, stick the pipe into into the existing tailpipe, and then wire or clip it in place. You can power the LC-1 off the cigarette lighter, or even with a small spare battery.

Bruce

[Dannyringo]

Originally Posted by 75gmck25

The exhaust pipe coming off the collector should work fine. You can also buy collectors with an O2 bung already installed, but its probably cheaper to have one welded in to the straight pipe after the collector. The LC-1 kit includes the weld-in bung, so you just need to have a shop make a hole in the pipe (the guy I went to just used his torch), and then weld the bung into the top of the pipe.

You can install the bung and plug it with a bolt if you aren't ready to complete the installation. You should not leave the sensor installed in the pipe unless it is powered when the engine is running.

The LC-1 also includes instructions for a portable AFR meter installation. You put the sensor into a section of pipe, stick the pipe into into the existing tailpipe, and then wire or clip it in place. You can power the LC-1 off the cigarette lighter, or even with a small spare battery.

Bruce

Thanks Bruce~! This old dog learned quite a bit today on the installation and the "DO's" and "Don'ts" of what works...I just got off of Summit's site and found the collector reducer w/O2 bung for my header exhaust system...Summit gave me Summit money to use in April, so the total for the reducer will be $1.95 + 4.95 shipping, but since I am ordering other parts, perhaps I can save on shipping.
Thanks Again Bruce~!