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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 04-21-2009, 04:41 PM
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still skeptical on the 9:1 though with the limited cam specs that he has given [/QUOTE]

I will usually stay out of the motor combo unless I've done it and had it work or not work. Personally I would run more compression also,but I'm not gonna say it won't work. I've seen many combo's that I didn't think they would run that well and they hauled the mail.If I was the OP I would get with K/Star and see what he say's about it.

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Old 04-21-2009, 04:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 35WINDOW
Well,

Count me in-I'm building a street 540 for my '35-mine is a little different in that I'm using a new 502 GM Block and AFR Heads (and a Hyd. Roller)-maybe I just have P***s envy-

That's funny!
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  #18 (permalink)  
Old 04-21-2009, 05:01 PM
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if it works all the better to him, i dont want to see someone fail, that's not cool, all in all i hope that it does and that he "hauls the mail" ive never heard that one, good luck with the 540 im sure that who ever built it has a good bit more knowlege ( given the high projected numbers the motor should put out)than i do so they wouldn't have put something together that didn't work
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  #19 (permalink)  
Old 04-21-2009, 08:13 PM
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build

I need the rest of the cam numbers to make a call on the cam.

Those big CI engines can take a big stick and still have good manners.

4500 carbs on the street are not really an issue anymore. On any given weekend you can find hundreds of cars at local shows with Dominators on them.

I have a customer with a small block ford with a Pro-Systems Dominator on it that you can reach in the window hit the button, it will fire right up and sit there for ever at idle.

Keith
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  #20 (permalink)  
Old 04-22-2009, 01:01 PM
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Sounds loke a grate engine I cant give anny advise on the build, but i vanted to coment on the coment that sutch strong engins culdent be fast on the street.Whith the rigt chasis werry big HP nummers can hook up pretty good on the street.Here are som insparation http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bft0W83PFK0
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Old 04-22-2009, 04:44 PM
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Sorry to stir such a pot!
As far as the motor was concerned, the cam was recommended by Crower after they had all the numbers. Playing phone tag with them and my machinist now. If I need to replace the pistons I will. Ive got the card and Ill put down the numbers at the end of this reply.
Sorry for causing a debate on what motor to put in a street car, but like I said, I know this is overkill. You wanna know the biggest reason Im doing it? Because with a first gen Camaro at a car show, if your numbers dont match and you want to stand out from the others you really have to do something. Thanks for those that said I wouldnt be street racing, cause your right!
Who cares about hooking up to the very last horsepower. Im cutting a first gen to a tube frame. Thats how hot rodding started remember? Sticking motors in stuff that wasnt meant for them.

Cam Card:
Part#01486
Intake: Duration: 290deg Lift: .649 Clearance: .026
Exhaust: Duration: 306deg Lift: .677 Clearance: .028

Rocker Arm Ratio 1.70
Valve Closed: 185/200lbs
Valve Open: 480/500lbs

Info below for degreeing cam only. Correct only at .050" tappet lift.
Intake Opens 27.0BTDC Closes 53.0ABDC
Exhast Opens 66.0BBDC Closes 24.0ATDC

Lobe Seperation 107deg
Duration at .050" Lobe Lift
Intake: 260deg
Exhaust: 270deg
Intake: .382
Exhaust: .398
Intstalled on 103deg centerline
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  #22 (permalink)  
Old 04-22-2009, 05:17 PM
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[QUOTE=540neverdone]Sorry to stir such a pot!
As far as the motor was concerned, the cam was recommended by Crower after they had all the numbers. Playing phone tag with them and my machinist now. If I need to replace the pistons I will. Ive got the card and Ill put down the numbers at the end of this reply.
Sorry for causing a debate on what motor to put in a street car, but like I said, I know this is overkill. You wanna know the biggest reason Im doing it? Because with a first gen Camaro at a car show, if your numbers dont match and you want to stand out from the others you really have to do something. Thanks for those that said I wouldnt be street racing, cause your right!
Who cares about hooking up to the very last horsepower. Im cutting a first gen to a tube frame. Thats how hot rodding started remember? Sticking motors in stuff that wasnt meant for them.

Sounds like it's gonna be a nice ride!
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  #23 (permalink)  
Old 04-22-2009, 05:32 PM
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http://www.compcams.com/Cam_Specs/Ca...?csid=501&sb=2

http://cranecams.com/?show=browsePar...tType=camshaft

http://www.lunatipower.com/Product.aspx?id=2069&gid=253

i tried to find a few cams that were similar to the cower cam that you picked out, take a look at the recomended compression ratio's

you didn't stir a bunch of stuff up, i did, and although im a nice guy i don't always come off that way, but i never mean to sound like a butt, sometimes i do though
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  #24 (permalink)  
Old 04-22-2009, 06:03 PM
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Hey no worries 87Z, the world we live in today people gotta learn to read others through texting and typing! All good bud! Just got off the phone with Crower and they believe the numbers are fine. But Im always open to opinion....
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  #25 (permalink)  
Old 04-22-2009, 06:30 PM
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good luck i hope it all works just fine, it does deffinatly sound like a kick in the pants motor, what all do you plan on doing to the car, backhalf? mini-tub? or run what you can fit? do you plan on hittin the track from time to time, i know with a motor like that i would, not all the time just the ocasional footbrake comp or special events

i took the liberty of running some of your numbers on a crude online dyno site, and i looked up the your heads for flow and came up with around 371cfm @ .649 lift

9:1=665hp/ w/3500lbs and 12% parasitic hp loss = 10.70 (585bhp)
(i had to see)
11:1=808hp/ w/3500lbs and 11% parasitic hp loss = 9.99 (719bhp)

i really dont know just how much i would trust all these numbers though, but the site does claim to be extremly accuate, i think there would need to be a little more imput needed to actually get hp numbers, the only real way is with a true dyno pull do you plan on doing this?
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  #26 (permalink)  
Old 04-22-2009, 07:45 PM
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I may switch to 10 to 1 pistons after some number crunching.
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  #27 (permalink)  
Old 04-22-2009, 08:59 PM
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10.0:1 = 737hp/ 656bhp 3500lbs = 10.30 (11% parasitic loss)

10.5:1 = 773hp/ 688bhp 3500lbs = 10.13 (11% parasitic loss)

again i wouldn't trust these number 100% cause they are done with only the
head flow= 371 cfm @ .649
compression ratio
000 above sea elevation (i live in MD 0 ft above sea level)
advertised duration= 290
duration @ .050= 260
center line= 103
int. lift= 0.649 w/ 1.7 rockers
stroke/ bore/ rods/ cylinders= 541 cid

IMO there has to be alot more to actually give you true hp numbers, and this site wont give you tq #'s, i wish it did

i have a torque motor (385) that is says that i make 447hp/371bhp in a 3450lbs car (with me in it) and that i run 12.39

i tend to believe that my hp numbers are slightly lower 420-430, but that my tq should be around 460-470, and i think i will likely run a little better than that, my est= 12.0 (cars not complete, so i haven't run it yet)
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  #28 (permalink)  
Old 04-23-2009, 01:09 AM
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Check this out. Similar build as mine, pistons I installed are part number SRP 142984, and they are to be 9.4:1 with 118cc heads. The Dart Pro1s I got are 119cc.
http://books.google.com/books?id=Y98...num=7#PPA93,M1
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  #29 (permalink)  
Old 09-08-2010, 08:38 PM
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Hey, I havent posted on this thread in a while. I've kept up wrenching, but I focused more on work and got a couple more rides in the fleet that took up time. Since returning to this forum I made a new username and new profile.

As far as the motor is concerned, I had the heads milled slightly to bump the compression. Found various issues along the way but its almost there. Thought I'd try out the SV1 carb from prosystems. If its not good for my motor a friend is willing to take it off my hands.

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[IMG][/IMG]

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