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Old 01-08-2009, 03:29 PM
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Input for Chev 383 small block build

Hey guys,

Im looking at building a 383 for street purpose. I wouldnt be driving it daily, it would be more of a sunny day car.

Im looking to produce around the 500 hp mark with torque around the same number. Is this possible for under 10 thou?

I found these dyno stats on a 383 :

Displacement: 383 cu. in.
Carburetor: Holley 750 double pumper
Heads: Air Flow Research 190cc Street
Intake: Air Flow Research FloPower RPM
Camshaft: Comp Cams 280 Magnum hydraulic, with 280 of duration, 230 of duration @ 0.050 in. lift, and 0.480 in. lift
Headers: 1 3/4 in.
Distributor: MSD
Timing: 34
Comp. Ratio: 9.5:1

MAX HP: 471 @ 5500
MAX Torque: 515 @ 4500

is there more to it?

Thanks.

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Old 01-08-2009, 04:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Calais
Hey guys,

Im looking at building a 383 for street purpose. I wouldnt be driving it daily, it would be more of a sunny day car.

Im looking to produce around the 500 hp mark with torque around the same number. Is this possible for under 10 thou?

I found these dyno stats on a 383 :

Displacement: 383 cu. in.
Carburetor: Holley 750 double pumper
Heads: Air Flow Research 190cc Street
Intake: Air Flow Research FloPower RPM
Camshaft: Comp Cams 280 Magnum hydraulic, with 280 of duration, 230 of duration @ 0.050 in. lift, and 0.480 in. lift
Headers: 1 3/4 in.
Distributor: MSD
Timing: 34
Comp. Ratio: 9.5:1

MAX HP: 471 @ 5500
MAX Torque: 515 @ 4500

is there more to it?

Thanks.
If you like the spec, buy it.

What exactly is it that drew you to this spec? Is it going to drive the way you want to drive? What trans, rear? Stick or auto? Tire size? Stall?

Where did this spec come from?

Not enough information.
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Old 01-08-2009, 05:41 PM
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That's funny that you came up with that particular combination. I am about to build that exact combo for a guy within the next few weeks. You should be able to build this for around $5,000 but it will really depend on if you need to buy a complete rotating assembly or just use stock parts. Next, you need to decide if you want to go forged or cast rotating assembly. The difference between forged and cast is about $1,000. Heads should run you about $1440 give or take a little bit depending on where you get them. Headers will be pricey if you want a good set. Expect to spend about $500-$700 of a set of ceramic coated headers.
There are a lot of miscellaneous parts but these are the big ticket items. I've been compiling part numbers and prices for this build for the past few days and I'll be glad to share some ideas and part numbers with you if you want to PM me.
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Old 01-08-2009, 05:54 PM
How fast is fast enough?
 
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you can actually get more than 500/500 if you know what you're doing for a little over half that money... Then again you can get half of the power for 10G's if you don't know what you're doing...
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Old 01-08-2009, 06:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ap72
you can actually get more than 500/500 if you know what you're doing for a little over half that money... Then again you can get half of the power for 10G's if you don't know what you're doing...
Great line.
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Old 01-08-2009, 06:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by speedfreak2
That's funny that you came up with that particular combination. I am about to build that exact combo for a guy within the next few weeks. You should be able to build this for around $5,000 but it will really depend on if you need to buy a complete rotating assembly or just use stock parts. Next, you need to decide if you want to go forged or cast rotating assembly. The difference between forged and cast is about $1,000. Heads should run you about $1440 give or take a little bit depending on where you get them. Headers will be pricey if you want a good set. Expect to spend about $500-$700 of a set of ceramic coated headers.
There are a lot of miscellaneous parts but these are the big ticket items. I've been compiling part numbers and prices for this build for the past few days and I'll be glad to share some ideas and part numbers with you if you want to PM me.
He's still not building to his application. He's picking parts in a vacuum. Who knows if the guy you're doing this for has the same needs/desires as the OP since the OP hasn't yet mentioned *** he wants to do with this.

Build application, whatever the power is, it is. I feel building to a number is quite dumb. That's just me. There's 100 ways to build to an application in all different power levels, but until and unless there's more information than a list of cool parts from a catalog, it means NOTHING.
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Old 01-08-2009, 06:55 PM
How fast is fast enough?
 
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building for a number isn't an entirely bad idea- Its just like putting a 10K paint job on a 76 Camaro LS... It's not for everyone but the owner may feel its just want they want. Some people just want a dyno chart in the glove box.

That being said if you're starting from scratch the best thing to do would be to start with a built LQ9 short block, slap on some ported L92 heads, and put in a fairly big cam. You'll be closer to 600hp, come in around 6-7K total and it's really reliable.

Gen III/IV chevies are the way to go if you're starting from scratch and your budget is above 4K. Gen I's can be built to make some good power but not as easily or reliably as the newer stuff.
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Old 01-08-2009, 06:57 PM
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No way in hell will those part's make that power with only 9.5 CR.

At least not on any real dyno.
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Old 01-08-2009, 06:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ap72
Some people just want a dyno chart in the glove box.
From my experience, and I'm only talknig personal experience, those people are the biggest idiots and should be stripped of their cars.

Quote:
That being said if you're starting from scratch the best thing to do would be to start with a built LQ9 short block, slap on some ported L92 heads, and put in a fairly big cam. You'll be closer to 600hp, come in around 6-7K total and it's really reliable.
Great suggestion. How does the motor act? My version of a weekend car, and yours may be two different things.

Quote:
Gen III/IV chevies are the way to go if you're starting from scratch and your budget is above 4K. Gen I's can be built to make some good power but not as easily or reliably as the newer stuff.
Yep. But there's a lot of fabrication to get things to fit. Here's one way out of the ECU delima:




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Old 01-08-2009, 07:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by johnsongrass1
No way in hell will those part's make that power with only 9.5 CR.

At least not on any real dyno.
I think I know where the spec came from, and I don't trust the source for crap. If it's where I think it is, there's always fineprint, stipulation, and conditions. What you see, is not really what you get.
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Old 01-08-2009, 07:15 PM
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First things First

Check your stock rear end gear ratio, and at what rpm your engine is running at highway cruising speed. If it is 1600-1800 RPM, it will be too low for a large camshaft application. If a large camshaft is your desire, re-gear to the power range of the new engine, and camshaft. This will also require a higher stall speed converter, if it is an automatic.

In other words, build your engine to work with your stock gears, or re-gear, and build it for the new gear ratio.
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Old 01-08-2009, 07:48 PM
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"Build application, whatever the power is, it is. I feel building to a number is quite dumb."

I 100% agree with this statement. That's how I build everything. It just so happens that the combo I chose for the application that I'm building is the same combo the OP found. Weird.
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Old 01-08-2009, 07:50 PM
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Hey guys, sorry for the late post.

Quote:
If you like the spec, buy it.

What exactly is it that drew you to this spec? Is it going to drive the way you want to drive? What trans, rear? Stick or auto? Tire size? Stall?

Where did this spec come from?

Not enough information.
I was looking in a topic on here from 2003 and found a link to this this site http://ryanscarpage.50megs.com/combos1.html

It will be in a manual 92 holden, im just looking at info on the engine first, so i can then decide on what other things i need to match, brakes,clutch,diff . .

you guys have been great help so far!
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Old 01-08-2009, 07:53 PM
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Also, the car is a straight shell with no engine or gbox, 4:11s with mini spool, which ill be changing. i brought it like this.

its a project to last me for the year.

thanks.
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Old 01-08-2009, 08:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by speedfreak2
"Build application, whatever the power is, it is. I feel building to a number is quite dumb."

I 100% agree with this statement. That's how I build everything. It just so happens that the combo I chose for the application that I'm building is the same combo the OP found. Weird.

That's why I thought it was a published spec....

Your other comments are why I like it here. I've been around too many dyno jockies lately.

Here's something funny. I commented that someone was lying to sell a product (one mentioned here) his response (from a manufacturer) was I had no right to talk until I posted my dyno numbers. No kidding. How stupid is that? Until and unless I had a dyno sheet for my car, I had no right to an opinion about his lying. And the people there jumped in and supported that crap....sigh. That's fine, I'm here now...
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