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Old 07-28-2010, 10:20 PM
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install Harmonic balance '66 model 327 SBC

Could someone advise me on re-installing the harmonic balance on a '66 model 327. The crank hole is NOT tapped as it only has the tapered bore in the end of the shaft. Obviously this eliminates a balance install tool that would thread and pull the last bit. Is it safe to "hammer' it on. It sure seems to be awfully tight already and it seems to have about 3/4" to 1" left to go on. I've read both opinions about hammering including using a block of wood and the sort. It does concern me about whacking on the crank alot, but i'm out of ideas. Thanks so much.

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Old 07-28-2010, 10:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sir-redbeard
Could someone advise me on re-installing the harmonic balance on a '66 model 327. The crank hole is NOT tapped as it only has the tapered bore in the end of the shaft. Obviously this eliminates a balance install tool that would thread and pull the last bit. Is it safe to "hammer' it on. It sure seems to be awfully tight already and it seems to have about 3/4" to 1" left to go on. I've read both opinions about hammering including using a block of wood and the sort. It does concern me about whacking on the crank alot, but i'm out of ideas. Thanks so much.
You should remove the damper and heat it using boiling water. I've heard of guys also using ice on the crank snout, and also hitting it w/a CO2 fire extinguisher to shrink it down.

Hustle the damper out to the crank, get the keyway aligned w/the key (both of which you've already deburred) and using a thick piece of wood, like a short piece of small diameter fence post, end-on- wail the damper on w/a BFH. Do Not hit the outer edge of the damper- just the center of the hub.

If the engine is in the car, it helps if you have someone under the car that can lever the crank frontwards after every hammer blow. This lessens any impact that the thrust bearing will see. If the engine is on a stand, simply lever the crank forward after each blow. You gotta move fast, though. And you'd like to have a smear of silicone or "Right Stuff" inside the damper ID to stop any seepage of oil past the press fit.
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