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I had a '68 327 that had no threaded hole in the crank, either. I ended up using a short piece of 4x4 lumber and a BFH. The oil pan was off and the engine on a stand, so after each hit, I would move the crank back forward, away from the thrust bearing making contact w/the crank's thrust surface. This prevented the bearing from being damaged.
If I'd have had the time and inclination, I would have drilled and tapped the crank for a crank bolt. If you drill and tap for a crank bolt, get the hole straight to the crank centerline. |
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See "Installing the damper" here....
http://static.summitracing.com/globa...sum-163289.pdf |
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A trick I learned long ago on the non-tapped crank hubs was to put the harmonic damper in the oven @ 200 for 20 minutes. Place some ice cubes in a sandwich bag and lay them over the crank hub prior to the "baking" of the damper. Quickly wipe any moisture off the hub and slip on the damper which is still a press on fit, just doesn't need so many hvy blows with the infamous BFH. You can use the same procedure with a threaded snout, pulls on a lot easier.
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