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  #31 (permalink)  
Old 06-02-2010, 08:56 PM
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yea, i've always wanted a chevelle, preferably a 1970. Currently have a 78 firebird

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  #32 (permalink)  
Old 06-03-2010, 12:54 AM
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Why not just heat it up and slide it back on there? Ain't like it's going to fall off. Look at what you had to do to get it off in the first place.

The only balancer failure I've ever encountered (including 1 of mine) was it just blew apart! Even with a bolt-on balancer, you still have to use a puller.

I would put it back on the way it was designed to be. One less bolt to turn the next time.

I thought you wanted to know how to get it back on without drilling and tapping the crank?

Now look at ya!
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  #33 (permalink)  
Old 06-03-2010, 05:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sqzbox
Why not just heat it up and slide it back on there? Ain't like it's going to fall off. Look at what you had to do to get it off in the first place.

The only balancer failure I've ever encountered (including 1 of mine) was it just blew apart! Even with a bolt-on balancer, you still have to use a puller.

I would put it back on the way it was designed to be. One less bolt to turn the next time.

I thought you wanted to know how to get it back on without drilling and tapping the crank?

Now look at ya!
Good point... Yea, i'm to lazy to drill and tap it anyway!
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  #34 (permalink)  
Old 06-03-2010, 05:52 PM
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And it sure was a ***** to take off!
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  #35 (permalink)  
Old 06-15-2010, 12:42 AM
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Hey Frisco - that drawing is excellent!! Thank you very much. I downloaded it a few months back when my 40-year-old damper seperated and had the guide made. Finally used it tonight. I have some pictures but it's late and I'm kinda lazay...

My crank is a 60s something (obviously) 327. It was not drilled and tapped but it did have a small pilot hole and countersink.
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  #36 (permalink)  
Old 06-15-2010, 11:30 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jb2wheels
Hey Frisco - that drawing is excellent!! Thank you very much. I downloaded it a few months back when my 40-year-old damper seperated and had the guide made. Finally used it tonight. I have some pictures but it's late and I'm kinda lazay...

My crank is a 60s something (obviously) 327. It was not drilled and tapped but it did have a small pilot hole and countersink.
Glad to see that someone thought to have the guide manufactured. It works well and can be a very useful aid to either add threads to an existing crank that doesn't have them or even to drill and tap to repair stripped out threads that are then repaired with a heli-coil. This is for use when the crank is still installed in the engine block. The one I made the drawing is for a small block Chevrolet crank snout. The drawing is easily modified to conform to any crank that needs to have the end drilled and tapped without complete removal from the engine block.

The obvious correct thing would be to have several of the guides manufactured with various ID holes. One for a smaller pilot drill. One for the tap drill. One for the tap. If repairing stripped out threaded hole, then one for the heli-coil tap drill.

The original countersink you mentioned was done at the factory with what is called a drill/countersink (centerdrill) cutting tool. It is there so that the crank can be supported on a dead center or a live center to machine/grind/polish the crank journals.
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