Installing Connecting Rods, 350 chevy?
 

When assembling my piston connecting rods to my crank shaft, how can I remember which side goes (criss cross) 1-3-5-7 or 2-4-6-8. Hope u understand what I am trying to say? A picture would be great.

Have you already taken them out? If not, just stamp them for their locations. If you have taken them out, there is no way to tell what journal they came from. Mark everything before removing it.

piston rods?
 

I will explain better,my engine is on stand, upside down w/ oil pan off. I am about to install my pistons. Question - does my first piston I install ( no. 2 cyl ) because I am standing in front with eng turned upside down. Does this rod go on journal closest to me?if so then the no. 4 cyl same way piston goes closest to me (front), then same for no. 6 cyl and no. 8 cyl?Advise, explain, Thanks Dana (pic) would be great if u can, I don't want to screw up

Each rod will only go to a specific crank journal. The only thing that you need to watch for is the way the piston/rod is turned. You can install them wrong if they are not turned the right way. The pistons should have markings on the tops (arrow, dot, "UP", etc.). Have the rods been taken off of the pistonsS

connecting rods
 

Racer, the rods are all attached to new pistons, I no the dot is to the front, all pistons are marked by the machine shop who did my block etc. My concern is does it make a difference when I install my rod to my journal which rod on the journal is closest to the front of engine? Example no. 2 cyl and no. 1 cyl after my pistons are pushed thru and ready to attach to my first journal does it matter where it sits on the journal?

They'll only go one way n the crank journal, put a piston in and you'll see, the cylinders are staggered.

Boy, I'm sure glad John Wayne didn't see my question on your thread Nova, I can just imagine what he'd say to me!!! Thanks again, I was anticipating before I looked, thanks again. Oh yea don't tell (Big John)

you need to find a buddy that has done this before & get him to help & show you how. if you didn't know this simple little detail, you might end up in trouble real fast. not being mean, just giving advise.

also, you don't put the pistons in with the block upside down. put the left bank level & do 1-3-5-7, tightening the rod bolts to about 15-20fp as you go. then level the other bank & get 2-4-6-8. after all rods are on the crank, flip the block upside down & then torque the rod bolts down to the correct spec. this is just how i do it, this will get you started in the right direction.

one more thing, make sure you have the upper half of the rear main seal in the block (if it's a two piece rear main seal block) before you drop the crank in & torque it down. a bunch of people forget to do this for some reason on their first build.

Ha! If he'd been around, he would have said that to me more than once. After you've cleaned the oil passages good, don't forget to install the threaded plug under the rear main cap if it was removed.

Thanks for all the great advice: I do have a buddy that rebuilds for a living, and he is coming over Tue and we will both be putting the pistons in (well he is teaching me really) So everything is covered. I was trying to explore a little on my own. Something I won't ever forget again. Thanks again, Dana

When it comes time to install the pistons/rings/rods, you will tip the engine around so the block deck will be about like shown below. Be sure to use rod bolt sleeves to protect the cylinders and crank journals (the guy in the photo isn't using them- and that's a bad practice. It only takes one slip and the crank can be nicked). Short pieces of rubber fuel line can be used to protect the bolts.

Caps only go on one way, be sure they're correctly orientated and turn the crank after each cap is torqued to be sure there's nothing binding.

http://image.mustangandfords.com/f/2...assemblies.jpg