[Bluesbrother]

I'm replacing the rusted out cab supports, floor, and rockers on my '64 Chevy pickup. When test-fitting the front cab support, I found that there is about a 1/2" gap between the "ears" and the floor support. Also, it doesn't mount at exactly 90 degrees. I braced the door jamb before taking it apart, and I remounted the door to confirm that it still fits OK, so I don't think the cab has shifted while I've been working on it. However, who knows if it was really square before I started?

If anyone else has encountered this problem, I'd like to hear what you did about it. How can I weld the cab support to the floor support? Should I fill the space with a piece of thick steel, or do you have any other suggestions?

[deadbodyman]

aftermarket parts are never perfect,try heating it up and bending it to the right location ,aslong as everything is lined up right it'll be no problem,try using drill screws first before you weld anything,get it all together then take it all back apart after its right and start welding,no problem. Hows your body mounts?Are they in also? everything should be together before you weld

[Bluesbrother]

Thanks for the suggestions. In a Chevy truck forum a guy who had the same problem said he took care of it by bending the tabs straight out and then butt welding it. I think that's the approach I am going to take. I will definitely have the floorboard and body mounts fitted in position before I weld anything.

[cjperotti]

Deadbodyman is correct. Most aftermarket parts don’t meet OEM standards. You do what you have to do to make it have some resemblance to OEM. It can be challenging.

I find it interesting your working on a 64 Chevy pickup. So am I. It belongs to a friend. He and another friend started the project and I was recruited towards the end. Mostly to correct their mistakes and low craftsmanship. Some couldn’t be corrected; however, I was able to make them less noticeable.

Maybe we can post some photos when we’ve completed our projects. What do say? Feel up to it?

[Bluesbrother]

Sure! I'd like to see your project. And I'll try to post some pictures of mine - just don't expect anything soon because this is just a hobby for me and I'm not rushing it. I spend a few hours in the evenings during the week and on Saturdays whenever I get the chance. I'm doing the passenger-side floor and rockers first, then I need to do the driver's side. By that time I hope to have learned enough about welding and body work to do the body panels that can be seen.

[cjperotti]

Great. I have tomorrow off from my regular job so I’ll be working my friends truck. I’ll try to take some pictures to post to show you where we're at. I think you’ll like the truck and what we’ve done to it already.

[deadbodyman]

This may help:start with the outer rocker,leave all the rusty inner structure intact.after fitting use drill screws to fasten the rocker.(I use 1/4" and 5/16")The nice thing about screws is you can remove the panel quickly and replace it exactly in the same position as many times as you have to but R&R it enough times and the holes will get bigger and you'll no longer be able to tighten them down,thats where the 5/16" screws come in,just start them in the old holes.After your satisfied with the fit go deeper(the inner rocker)secure it then go deeper.As for the outriggers and mounting brackets,install ALL the body mounts and everything else,all the while checking the door any changes in gaps or binding.Do one side at a time,it might seem complicated but it can be done by a first timer.Just remember even the best of us bodyman had a first time for everything,dont be afraid,be cautious of mistakes,if made its not the end of the world,but the begining of the learning prosses.Anyways theres enough knowlage here to solve just about any auto problem you can possibly have,so good luck and ENJOY....

[Bluesbrother]

Thanks, deadbodyman, for the suggestions and the encouragement. Unfortunately it's too late to use your method for the passenger side because it's already apart. But I will keep your suggestions in mind for the drivers side and maybe that side will go smoother.

I did weld in a brace to keep the door opening from shifting, and I have re-hung the door a couple of times while test-fitting things to make sure it still fits OK. I'm trying to go slow and make sure everything is just right before I weld things up.

[Bluesbrother]

Hey, cjperotti, here's a picture of my project before I started working on it. It was originally light blue and white (but it won't be that color when I'm finished with it). The previous owner used spray can primer to cover it in grey. He also removed all the side moldings and put bondo in the holes. I plan to find moldings and put them back on when I get it painted.

As you can see, the sheet metal on the bed was dented bad. I found a '63 with a decent bed and have since replaced it. The truck was originally 3-speed on the column, but it now has a 350 engine and 4-speed transmission.

I got the truck around 3 years ago and have it in pretty good shape mechanically. It passes the safety inspection and is licensed. Now I am working on the rust, which was extensive in the rockers and floors. The previous owner put something that looks like drywall tape over the rust spots when he primered it. When I took that stuff off, it was mostly air. So I'm replacing the front floor pan, side floor with inner rockers, outer rockers, bottom of A pillar, footwell, front & rear cab supports and cab corner. Even with all these patch panels, there are other areas that I am making additional patches for.

This will never be a show truck or all original. My goal is to make a decent daily driver that I can just have fun with. I enjoy working on old cars & trucks, so the work is part of the fun for me. The 60-66 body style is my favorite, so this truck is a good fit for me.

[deadbodyman]

Well blue,it sounds like you'll be alright,patience is a virtue.If you find time ,snap off a few pics of your progress and your problem areas.Later

[crashtech]

Just a thought, I would assume that all cab mounts have been replaced and are in hand tight only, this will help make sure there is no weird twist on the cab from a collapsed mount, etc.