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Old 06-08-2010, 01:02 AM
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Installing kill switch

I am almost done with my chevy, so i want to be able to protect it when im not around.. This is what I have in mind, can anyone confirm that this would work, or maybe make a suggestion?

This picture is from another website, but I changed it to a cig lighter so it looks stock. If I just take the + and - from the cig lighter and just run the wires like the picture wouldnt that work? So that way when the cig lighter is pressed down the car will be able to start. Is that correct? I want to be able to do this sometime in the next 2 days. thanks
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Old 06-08-2010, 07:16 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ericrcan
I am almost done with my chevy, so i want to be able to protect it when im not around.. This is what I have in mind, can anyone confirm that this would work, or maybe make a suggestion?

This picture is from another website, but I changed it to a cig lighter so it looks stock. If I just take the + and - from the cig lighter and just run the wires like the picture wouldnt that work? So that way when the cig lighter is pressed down the car will be able to start. Is that correct? I want to be able to do this sometime in the next 2 days. thanks
No that will not work,you need to move the small black wire on that is on the small left hand terminal to the post that brings + voltage to the solenoid from the battery,that will get you the voltage to turn the motor over but you must provide + voltage at the switch ( + to ignition terminal ) so the motor will run.
Also I have built circuits like this in the past and have had trouble with the cig lighters in that they eventually corrode the heat element inside the hand piece and work erratically.....but it will work for short term use.
Good Luck!
Kenny
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Old 06-08-2010, 10:15 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shelby1
Also I have built circuits like this in the past and have had trouble with the cig lighters in that they eventually corrode the heat element inside the hand piece and work erratically.....but it will work for short term use.
what would you recommend? Maybe wiring it into the highbeam foot switch? Or maybe there is a way I can just run from the starter, then have about 5 switches next to eachother and they have to be in a certain position to turn on the car. I have been able to fix all electrical problems with the car, and ive done some electrical work around the house, but have never done relays or anything like that so the more detailed the better. lol. thanks!


ive attached a pic the "5 switch" idea. Id probably have to flip the the duckbill upside down to be able to be in the ON position when its upside down. Its just like wiring a simple switch but just duplicating it correct?
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Old 06-08-2010, 11:31 AM
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safety sw

what i did is use the reg ign sw but not wire in the starter side. i have hiden a toggle under the dash for the starter only. got it at radio shack. spring loaded to center position.
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Old 06-08-2010, 02:22 PM
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Ignition Combination Kill Switch Circuit

Hey Eric?, Here's one I whipped up for Matt167 a while back. It uses six switches to enable or disable the ignition circuit. Has a green(go) & red(no go) pilot light included, choose your own combination of switch positions. Its drawn in ladder logic to make it easy to read. olnolan

http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/atta...chmentid=44320
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Old 06-08-2010, 02:35 PM
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that looks like exactly what im looking for. 1 problem, i dont really understand it. .. the only thing i have done is connect a universal electric fuel pump, installed amps, speakers, LEDs, etc.. I dont really understand how to wire that, or really what any of it means.. i know there are lots of different types of switches, whats the difference? some have 2 'poles' on the bottom, where others have 3? Sorry if i sound stupid, im still a 'noob' with all these electric stuff
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Old 06-08-2010, 02:47 PM
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Okay

The six switches shown are two position toggle switches on-off-on. The switches are shown in the off (center) position. The dashed lines above and below indicate the possible positions the switches could be in. The "R" & "G" with the lines are the pilot lights. The ignition relay is just a standard 30 Amp automotive relay available at any auto parts store. All the relay terminal numbers are shown as far as how to wire it up. Any more questions, just ask, I'll be around. olnolan
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Old 06-08-2010, 02:52 PM
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I splice into the power to the coil with a relay. Use the Cig lighter as the Low Voltage trigger switch so it won't burn out. Push Cig Lighter in to make contact and as it won't have high voltage, it won't heat up and pop off. Pull Lighter to standard position to deactivate the coil. The Relay will allow full power to the coil. I do this so the vehicle will crank but not start throwing off the thief to look for other mechanical problems in starting and not immediatly look for a kill switch. Also gives you a chance to hear your car cranking and possibly catch thief. Remove Cig Lighter when you get out as extra insurance.

Good Luck
Robert
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Old 06-08-2010, 02:59 PM
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[IMG]that helps alot, thanks . I think im starting to understand. The switches that you used have 3 'poles' on the bottom correct? The on-off-on in corresponding order? If that is correct, I could wire them like this right?
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Old 06-08-2010, 03:10 PM
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No

No,the BOLD lines are the wires, in your add on drawing all you did was bypass all the switches with wires. If you read the notes I included at the bottom, it will make it clearer to you as far as how you are accomplishing the switch combination. Just keep asking questions till you understand. olnolan
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Old 06-08-2010, 03:18 PM
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the switches that you used, they have 2 poles on bottom, or 3? could you show me how to wire it like how i did in my example. Because im not seeing how to wire 1 up, then the next one down. thanks. sorry for being stupid.. lol
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Old 06-08-2010, 04:04 PM
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Ain't No Such Thing As Stupid

STUPID is a subjective term. The way I see it is some folks just learn faster than others.

Okay, the switches shown in the schematic have three (3) terminals. They would normally be used to control two things. The center terminal is where the power would come in, the outside terminals(poles) would be the switch legs to two things.(For instance a fan with two speeds, hot in the middle, low speed on one pole(terminal)with a wire going to low speed on the fan motor, the opposite pole(terminal) with a wire going to high speed on the motor).

All we have done here is to wire the switches in a configuration that is a bit different. If you wire them just like the drawing, then you reverse the mounting of the switches to create any combinations of up or down you so desire to allow activation of your ignition circuit. Only YOU know the proper positions of the switches to get it to start.

When you mount a toggle switch like these, you drill a hole to size for the switch stem. The hardware that comes with the switch includes a washer with a tab on it to lock the switch in the position you want it. You have to take a small file and file a groove on the outside perimeter of your hole for the locking tab to go into to keep it from rotating in the hole. Hence the note on double slotting all the mounting holes, this allows you to wire all the switches together in what is called a daisy chain circuit. You leave extra slack on the wires so that you can rotate the switch 180 degrees to the opposite slot to create your own personal secret switch code. For example, down,up,down,up,down,up(six switches) but thats a too easy code. Something like a down,up,down,down,up,down is a way more challenging code to a crook. There is alot of different combinations you can create from six switches.

Is it getting a bit clearer now? If you're not in a hurry, I can probably coach you through it, but I compose and type like a snail. olnolan
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Old 06-08-2010, 04:24 PM
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im not in any hury at all, im just wanting to try this out before thursday, and if i get it to work, i want to install it when my custom center console is made (about a week). I just want to have it ready so i can put it all in and not have a bunch of headaches at one lol.

So there are 3 terminals, the middle one (the neutral position) will always get power. Then run the power wire from there to one of the poles depending on how I want to flip the switch? Im just confused because in the schematic you show the dotted lines for possible ways for the wire to run, but then at the top of the switch you show a wire. wouldnt that mean it has to be flicked upward?
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Old 06-08-2010, 04:39 PM
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Not

The dashed lines are positions the switch can be operated to, they are NOT wires. Think of it as an imagination of how the switch can be operated. When you draw a switch, the operating arm is generally shown in what is called shelf position(the position its in, in a box, on a shelf before its used. When you have a multiple position switch you have to show an imaginary line(dashed line) to indicate where it COULD be switched to. If you take notice, the center position drawn has no pole, so that tells you its off in that position. Questions?
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Old 06-08-2010, 04:49 PM
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Maybe This Will Make It Clearer

In the drawing, as shown, if you flip all the switches to the up position, the circuit will be made and the relay energized. At this point, you can turn some of the switches around 180 degrees in ther respective mounting holes not disturbing the position that the switch is in and the circuit will still be made, ok? Is it getting clearer now?
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