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Old 08-23-2006, 04:02 PM
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Installing a mini starter on my Chevy

I fought a hot soak noisy starter problem for about two years and I wanted to post what I found out: 67 Chevelle Malibu Wagon 350/350 with pertronix ignition.

I had already put a Ford solenoid with as "doc" calls them "Auto Zombie "rebuilt starter". They last ~6 months before the grinding and hot soak problems begin. I read forums including this one and finally decide on the high dollar mini starter. 160 dollars American at auto zombie! Comparable to Jeg's and other places. I figure I can return it easier if it doesn't work. Wear marks on the oem shows only about 1/8" of starter gear engaging in flywheel.

This is what I found out: I had the shunt wire from the S terminal to the battery connection on the new mini starter just like I did on the oem starter. The Ford solenoid S terminal going to the ignition switch and the "I" terminal going to the coil for increased power for start during cranking. Output of the Ford solenoid going to the New Mini Starter. Shunt wire from S terminal to Battery terminal.

It starts beautifully but after releasing the key to run the starter stays engaged to the engine flywheel for about 2 seconds. This ticks me off and I initially think it is mechanically sticking. But it is so consistent that I put my volt meter on the output of the Ford solenoid to the new mini starter solenoid and I see the voltage ramp down slowly instead of turning off with the key immediately. The new mini starter disengages when the voltage gets below ~3 volts.

Well I rewired that SOB by taking out the shunt from the "S" terminal to the battery connection on the new mini starter and run a new wire from the "S" terminal on the ford solenoid to the S terminal on the new mini starter and walla! perfection!

The power master mini starter must have capacitive voltage out of the starter battery terminal that keeps some voltage going to the S terminal. When it got below ~3 volts it would disengage. Hope this helps somebody!

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Old 08-23-2006, 04:44 PM
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Doc here,

Yup, Good job BTW

What your experiencing is sometimes called as "Magnetic Hang Time" after the Power to the "S" terminal is removed..It is caused by the collapsing field of the solenoid as it shuts down.

Thanks For sharing all your trials and cures..It WILL help others!

Glad to hear you back on the road again!

Doc
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Old 08-23-2006, 05:15 PM
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Yep, doc I think I've read every thread on Chebbie starter problems including many of yours! Finally purrs and doesn't annoy the neighbors!
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Old 08-27-2009, 03:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vern kelly
I fought a hot soak noisy starter problem for about two years and I wanted to post what I found out: 67 Chevelle Malibu Wagon 350/350 with pertronix ignition.

I had already put a Ford solenoid with as "doc" calls them "Auto Zombie "rebuilt starter". They last ~6 months before the grinding and hot soak problems begin. I read forums including this one and finally decide on the high dollar mini starter. 160 dollars American at auto zombie! Comparable to Jeg's and other places. I figure I can return it easier if it doesn't work. Wear marks on the oem shows only about 1/8" of starter gear engaging in flywheel.

This is what I found out: I had the shunt wire from the S terminal to the battery connection on the new mini starter just like I did on the oem starter. The Ford solenoid S terminal going to the ignition switch and the "I" terminal going to the coil for increased power for start during cranking. Output of the Ford solenoid going to the New Mini Starter. Shunt wire from S terminal to Battery terminal.

It starts beautifully but after releasing the key to run the starter stays engaged to the engine flywheel for about 2 seconds. This ticks me off and I initially think it is mechanically sticking. But it is so consistent that I put my volt meter on the output of the Ford solenoid to the new mini starter solenoid and I see the voltage ramp down slowly instead of turning off with the key immediately. The new mini starter disengages when the voltage gets below ~3 volts.

Well I rewired that SOB by taking out the shunt from the "S" terminal to the battery connection on the new mini starter and run a new wire from the "S" terminal on the ford solenoid to the S terminal on the new mini starter and walla! perfection!

The power master mini starter must have capacitive voltage out of the starter battery terminal that keeps some voltage going to the S terminal. When it got below ~3 volts it would disengage. Hope this helps somebody!

Couldn't it be becuase your running 2 solenoids? It's taking twice as long to disengage? Right....................?
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Old 08-27-2009, 04:03 PM
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This original post is over three years old, I think the gentleman has probably solved his problem by now. By the way the problem of the stater bendix staying engaged a few seconds is endimic of permanent magnet mini starters. The ones available from Auto Zombie and other parts stores are still off shore knock off's, and exhibit this problem. A quality Powermaster High Torque mini starter will not do this....I went through the same set of problems with my 34. It has absolutely nothing to do with running two solenoids.

Vince
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Old 09-09-2009, 02:41 PM
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Chebie Starters

My biggest mistake was trading in my original starter for a replacement at the Autozone. Please have an original starter rebuilt proffesionely and you will avoid lots of time and frustration under the car. I did the latter on a 1970 Impala Custom. (rebuilt the original starter) and I was under the car only two times! Remove and replace!
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