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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 11-14-2002, 03:04 PM
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I'll throw mine in too. I used to oil ( amix of the oil to go in the engine and ATF) up until about 10 years ago and started using WD-40 instead, I've built hundreds of engines this way and have never had a failure. Whatever works for the guy building them , I guess, but dry....never.

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  #17 (permalink)  
Old 11-14-2002, 03:32 PM
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dry asembled engines?--hmmm i must pray to the car gods for others sins-however im sure those that sinned in this manner,soon after, offered their rings as a sacrafice.-i dont think the car gods are very happy about this!
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The method I use seems to do fine. I blow the dust and grinder grit out with high pressure air, sand out the rust that has developed in the year since I had the cylinders bored, squirt whatever oil is in my drill press oil can at the time (usually Pep Boys 30W), shove teh slugs in with my nifty blue shim-steel ring compressor, bolt it all up and turn it on. ZOOM!!!
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somebody is full of sh** when it comes to dry assembly, i worked in a heavy equipment shop and they hired a guy that for his first job assembled a large v-8 Perkins diesel tractor motor, he did this dry, i had never seen it done before and watched him quite closely, he pre lubed the motor before firing it with a pressure luber. this engine ran for 10 min then started to belch oil smoke, lost power and quit, the heads were removed and the cylinder walls looked like someone had run a rasp up and down them. needless to say the man was fired on the spot, and i had to tear down, rebore and re assemble the motor, so much for dry assembly, cost the owner over $5000.00 to repair.
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Old 11-15-2002, 05:48 AM
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How did all this go from lubing the bores, skirts, and pins to "DRY"? I just happen to not oil the rings. I build all my engines that way and haven't had a ring related failure in over 20 years of engine building. If you're not comfortable with that then oil away. Like I said there's more than one way to do many things.
Just to explain my theory, whether it's right or wrong is open to discussion. Where does all that oil go that's trapped between the top ring, second ring and oil scraper? Especially if you're running a Total Seal or ZGS top ring. It really can't escape very quickly so it gets burned away during combustion. Burnt oil leaves a nasty residue, just look at the pistons out of any worn out engine that's burning oil. I build alot of engines with very low tension 2nd. rings, some are backcut to the point where the radial tension is almost non-existant. Many are of them are of the .043 thickness variety. Anyway the true sealing power of this type of ring comes from the matchup of the ring land and the bottom of the ring. This provides the seal that enables the pressure from behind the ring to force the ring outward. Any residue that remains on either surface will comprimise the seal. I actually flat lap the bottom of the rings then de-magnatize them. Of course the block is filled and plate honed and the finishes are obscene. Sounds kind of anal but is neccessary for rules-restricted classes like NHRA Stock Eliminator. I guess where I differ is that my business is race only so the volume isn't high.
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Old 11-15-2002, 03:53 PM
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wd40 & vaseline. works great

[ November 15, 2002: Message edited by: 38 deluxe ]</p>
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