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I would prolly jut put them in with either blue loctite or run them down till they get snug, then i would just drop the gaskets on then the covers you shouldn't need to seal them to the covers as you can line the gaskets up nice then drop the cover on with out messing up the gaskets.
Jesse |
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Are you using those cast covers, if so make sure the studs are long enough? That was one of the best moves I made, makes the job so much easier.I use no sealant.
How did you get the covers to fit? |
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Quote:
The customs covers I had were billet. They are going on my new motor when I get the parts together for it. My Mom bought me a set of Edelbrock's that are a new cast style. I bought the ARP studs for cast valve covers. I'm hoping they have a little extra on the thread so I can mount my spark plug looms to them. I bought some nice thick cork gaskets for the valve covers too Regards Mark P.S. Now I just have to get the new set here so I can istall them. As I posted earlier the first set had a defective design and cracked after installing the baffles as per Edlebrock's instruction. I don't know what they were thinking making you hammer fasteners into a cast valve cover. |
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The studs I bought for the valve covers had the star shape at the top so I could mini-snug them to the head. I have yet to have problems with them!
Currently I'm using the stamped steel covers though. |
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Studs
[color=lightblue][size=3]Doc here
Try this, Double nut the studs, Then coat them with Loctite 404, and install them Snugly into the head with a socket. Remove the Nuts and install the covers. What Gaskets Do you have Rubber or Cork? On the Cork I always use Vaseline on both sides of the gasket... then install, You can also oil soak them before putting them on. On the rubber, just put them on. In either Case, I Don't use sealer unless I develop a leak, Then lightly coat with permetex on the cover lip. The most trouble I have had was with the studs backing out on vibration when not using the locktite and Not wrenching them in... every 500 miles or so.. The locktite and snugging them in stopped that from happening. If you have the long handle hold downs, also try a star washer under them, A lock washer never worked without backing out...or causing a leak.. Hope it helps... I know what a nightmare this has been for you! Doc [/color][/size]
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Aftermarket Solutions Electronic & Electrical Innovations |
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Thanks everyone,
I picked up some locktite today and will be installing the new covers if all goes as planned. Do I need to degrease the bolt holes in the heads before I use the locktite? Regards Mark |
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Might help to use a thread chaser in there and a little cleanup,
when itīs done youīll wonder how you did without them. Are you fitting the valve covers with the breather holes on the sides and did you sort that EGR problem? |
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Another good spot to use studs is your thermostat housing, especially when you are using an aluminum manifold.
Studs are always better than bolts.
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Ontario Rodders |
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I used some extra header studs on the thermostat housing,
stuck them in with JB weld stuff, I would like studs for the carb but canīt find them long enough for the Q-Jet, got studs on the rear but have to use bolts on the front. |
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I have used bearing grease on both sides cork gaskets.
Malc, see your in Spain. My wife is a Spanard. She is from Seville. Hope to be going over there next year to see her family. Dane |
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Wouldn't threaded stainless steel rod work? I was thinking of buying some stainless steel threaded rod for doing just what you want to do as well. If I find some reasonable I'm going to have to buy the whole 4 foot rod so if I have some left over it's yours. I;ll just need to know how long you want it. Regards Mark |
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