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Old 04-10-2013, 02:05 PM
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Intake bolts clamping

Intake bolts. Will a grade 8 bolt hold more than a lesser grade at the same 25-30lbs..your spec here.. ?

How much more effective would going to intake studs be? I stud my exhaust headers, everytime.

The intake is matched to the head.

My particular manifold was to spec. Honestly if the intake sides are matched to the heads, in the past, I tourque it till it seals/holds.

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Last edited by spinn; 04-10-2013 at 02:18 PM.
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Old 04-10-2013, 02:24 PM
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Not sure which engine you have, but most intake bolts are on an angle so once the studs are installed, the intake would not go on. Grade 8 are strong bolts, but why would you need so much on an intake? Suspension yes, but intake???
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Old 04-10-2013, 02:34 PM
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I have a vortec pattern. It has fancy hex/Allen screws Torqued to spec. I was under the hood and put a wrench on it. Studs worked for the headers nice, figured it looked straight, and the stud could improve the hold.

I don't think it could warp the plate.
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Old 04-10-2013, 02:37 PM
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I have ARP bolting for my intake (and many other places on my car's engine) - but are beyond overkill for a 25 lb ft torque figure for a 5/16 NC bolt. A Gr2 fastener would work as well. It becomes a personal choice here - unless you are talking over torquing a few pounds and have something besides a naturally aspirated engine. If it were me, spend a few bucks more then a good American made Gr8, get the ARP fasteners, intake, head and whatever else you feel it needs and never worry. As far as studs - unless it is a highly stressed and modified engine, not needed - that is, unless you just really want them, then that's different
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Old 04-10-2013, 02:45 PM
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The arp and grade bolts require different torque to stretch and lock in place. Are they any more effective at clamping the intake at their spec?
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Old 04-10-2013, 02:49 PM
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It is not unusual to need to retighten the intake manifold bolts.
Don't get all up about it. Just snug them up again with a wrench.
Excessive torque is NOT BETTER.
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Old 04-10-2013, 04:37 PM
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A higher grade bolt could have better clamping based on material strength . The shank might be more resistant to expansion, it being harder, more compacted.
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Old 04-10-2013, 05:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spinn View Post
A higher grade bolt could have better clamping based on material strength . The shank might be more resistant to expansion, it being harder, more compacted.
Not and not.
A grade 5 as opposed to a grade 8 will not hold any differently at 25 Ft lbs of torque.
Neither will begin to stretch at that level of torque.
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Old 04-10-2013, 09:50 PM
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How about if I went with studs? Then I could use doubled nuts to secure the hold.

If that is even how it releases the hold. My thinking is from heat expansion.
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Old 04-11-2013, 04:13 AM
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As mentioned earlier, I'm quite confident that you'll have a geometry problem if you attempt to use studs for the intake due to the head surfaces are not on the same plane, unless you intend to install the studs after the manifold is set in place. But I would imagine that would be a pita to get the studs installed.

In terms of why to use studs for any application rather than bolts, the reason is that a stud and nut allow for a much more precise torque. The reason for this can be found at alot of places on the web, but basically, due to the lack of twisting force applied to the stud when torquing the nut a much more precise torque is achieved as compared to a bolt. Also, it is much easier on the threads that the stud is threaded into due to there is no rotational force being applied the 'thread in' end of the stud.

In terms of using using studs on an engine, for the heads and headers there is a need in certain applications. For valve covers, intake manifolds, timing cover, oil pan, etc., there is no need other than for appearance or the severe engine application.

X2 with LATECH in terms of intake bolts.

IMO, if you are concerned about the intake bolts loosening, then I'd recommend installing the manifold with the bolts and torquing them properly and run the engine to temperature for several heat cycles; let it cool completely to relieve all cooling system pressure and then remove each bolt one at a time and reinstall them with loctite.

Good luck
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Old 04-11-2013, 05:31 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spinn View Post
How about if I went with studs? Then I could use doubled nuts to secure the hold.

If that is even how it releases the hold. My thinking is from heat expansion.
Ayuh,... Are you havin' a Problem with yer intake sealing,..??

It don't matter whether ya use grade 2, gr.5, gr.8 bolts, or studs with 1 nut or 2,...
25 ft'lbs of torque is 25 ft.lbs. of torque...

Any of 'em will hold 25 ft.lbs. of torque, without stretchin'...
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Old 04-11-2013, 06:37 AM
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The loosening could be caused by what? Heat? I was thinking heat was expanding the shank and loosening over time.

I had read something on hardness. The atoms are squished closer together in higher grade bolts to achieve a hardness. The atoms closer together gave it more resistant to heat. More density.

Even if the studs had to be placed one at a time. I am not sure if my double nut fix would solve the issue.
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Old 04-11-2013, 09:31 AM
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You are putting WAY too much thought into this. Intakes and headers usually loosen up a bit after a few heat cycles, tighten them back up and go, you may have to do it twice after that their set.
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Old 04-11-2013, 02:36 PM
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You are putting WAY too much thought into this. .
Absolutely...

My bad.
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Old 04-11-2013, 08:50 PM
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Quote:
I have a vortec pattern

The vortec bolt is straight up, it is 11 ft/lbs going off of memory. Use a stud system if it makes you happy.

I have stainless regular bolts I think they are 5/16" corase x 2"ish long, I use a .120 thick gasket felpro MS type for vortec, never thought of studs,,,

You can make the most of the stud kit as this particular gasket is reusable so you can slide the intake up and off and reset the intake down just right over the studs each time. In that case studs would be a benifical

TJ

Last edited by Custom10; 04-11-2013 at 08:58 PM.
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