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Old 04-21-2013, 09:31 AM
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Old 04-21-2013, 09:33 AM
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On second thought I'm not in a rush, I may let it sit over night to let the permatex cure on the intake and try it tommorow.
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Old 04-21-2013, 10:25 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bygddy View Post
On second thought I'm not in a rush, I may let it sit over night to let the permatex cure on the intake and try it tommorow.
Don't rush dude, what's one more day with all the trouble you have been through. We will be waiting on VID!
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Old 04-21-2013, 12:08 PM
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Originally Posted by 0trbo4myCHEVUICK View Post
Don't rush dude, what's one more day with all the trouble you have been through. We will be waiting on VID!
No rushing for me, all back together now, broke the check valve from the booster to the vacuum source(intake) so need one of those tommorow. The only thing left is my TV cable set up, and I'm mostly lost on that one. From what I can understand in make sure the plunger is all the way in, then hook it to the throttle linkage, then go wide open throttle and it will pull the plunger out on its own until its at WOT, and then its set. I did that, it has tension on the cable, and the plunger pulled out app half way,but this seems too easy and like I'm missing something.
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Old 04-21-2013, 12:21 PM
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Finished product, and second pic is TV cable plunger

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Old 04-21-2013, 12:30 PM
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thats a beauti... waiting for the word on the perf and your opinions of those new shiny heads.
and a ET slip or two.
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Old 04-21-2013, 12:40 PM
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I second that, no need to rush a curing silicone even though the Permatex "The Right Stuff" claims you can put it back into service right away, it isn't cured and will always benefit if anything by waiting. Now with a shop trying to kick things out the door as soon as they can, it doesn't mean that is the best way to get the ultimate end result. This "Right Stuff" is amazing in how it bonds if you followed F Birds cleaning instructions to a T.

Unless I missed that, I don't think anyone made the comment on how decking the block, shaving a head, use of a thinner head gasket, machining the intake side of the head and taking the step you didn't end up doing of shaving some off the intake, as all examples of changing the intake height will directly affect the distributor installed height and need to add a shim.

The how part into determining the proper install height of the distributor to cam shaft center line ... that I will leave to those that know. I didn't think it would hurt to throw out the comment in case it wasn't thought of before you fired it up.
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Old 04-21-2013, 01:07 PM
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I second that, no need to rush a curing silicone even though the Permatex "The Right Stuff" claims you can put it back into service right away, it isn't cured and will always benefit if anything by waiting. Now with a shop trying to kick things out the door as soon as they can, it doesn't mean that is the best way to get the ultimate end result. This "Right Stuff" is amazing in how it bonds if you followed F Birds cleaning instructions to a T.

Unless I missed that, I don't think anyone made the comment on how decking the block, shaving a head, use of a thinner head gasket, machining the intake side of the head and taking the step you didn't end up doing of shaving some off the intake, as all examples of changing the intake height will directly affect the distributor installed height and need to add a shim.

The how part into determining the proper install height of the distributor to cam shaft center line ... that I will leave to those that know. I didn't think it would hurt to throw out the comment in case it wasn't thought of before you fired it up.
I didnt actually cut the intake, just elongated the holes a touch, once it was torqued down I dropped the dist in without a gasket to see if it bottomed on the oil pump, which it didn't, it bottomed at the intake so i just reinstalled with a gasket and should be good to go. I did however worry about it as i had a chinesiem intake on another car that didn't fit worth a sht and the dist was riding the oil pump gear and wouldn't seal at the intake....so I was watching for the same and all looks good. Thanks! Yah, not going to bother firing it yet, I need water from work (hard water at home makes everything rusty) and fill up cooling system. And want to be sure of the TV cable adjustment before I do anything.
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Old 04-21-2013, 02:07 PM
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Water for mixing with coolant, yes that often gets overlooked as its so easy to reach for the tap water or lets say the mistaken thought that bottled water ( large jug or small bottles ) is the proper type to use.

The "best" water to use and really the only water one should ever use unless one just doesn't have the option is distilled water. No minerals, no chlorine ... just plain water with nothing at all in it. If you have a friend you know who has a distiller or if you can source it at the grocery store. Otherwise rain or snow water is next in line assuming you don't have much for pollutants in the air as it falls.
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Old 04-21-2013, 03:58 PM
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So what I did for the TV cable is this. Pushed the plunger all the way in, pulled cable out and connected to the proper linkage at the Carb, then brought it to WOT and let the plunger rachet out. When released cable slides back in, plunger stays were it set itself, and that's about it. Any suggestions? Or am I good?
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Old 04-22-2013, 04:15 AM
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If the transmission was in the car previously with the same cable bracketry, then yes, what you did is fine. If you changed anything, i.e. cable bracket, carburetor lever, tranmsission, then you should check line pressure to make sure you don't damage your transmission.

I know that alot of guys don't mess with the line pressure check, but as far as I'm concerned, it is good insurance (same idea as using a good oil filter). See the attachment - ignore the throttle valve adjustment section unless you can't get performance and line pressures correct.

Good luck - looks great!
Attached Files
File Type: pdf 2004R_Transmission_Install Extreme Automatic.pdf (859.3 KB, 38 views)
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