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Interior glue, What is the best?

37K views 25 replies 10 participants last post by  Brimstone 
#1 ·
Hi, From time to time I will repair some parts of my cars interiors. Ive done door panels, headliners, carpet and installed new replacement seat covers.

Only issue is I can't find a glue that will meet or exceed OEM quality glue.
3M super 77 sucks, the super 90 is a little better but still sucks.

My first jobs was in a speaker cabinet factory, And some of the cabinets they put carpet on. When they did the carpet boxes, they had a glue that came in gallon size cans and sprayed from a normal spray gun. It worked perfect. The spray gun made a nice smooth even coat of the glue and once the carpet touched the sprayed box it would not come off.
Now im not saying im looking for that same glue. That was years ago and I don't believe it would make a good automotive glue.

What im looking for is a OEM+ quality glue that is sold in quarts and gallons and can be sprayed from a spray gun.

Anyone have a clue where I could find some?

thanks :thumbup:
 
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#11 · (Edited)
#12 ·
smithkustoms said:
Is this the same stuff? http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?action=productDetail&productId=41163-68-00273&lpage=none

I thought the name seemed familiar, I had to buy this stuff to put my counter tops in my garage.

Vince is right, that stuff is for gluing counter tops. There is nothing you can buy from the big box home improvement stores that will work like HHR (high heat resistant) spray grade top and trim adhesive. You need to buy it from an upholstery supply place either on line or right at the store. Also, nothing in an aerosol spray can is even close to the holding power of spray grade adhesives that are sprayed from a spray gun.
 
#13 ·
You need to buy it from an upholstery supply place either on line or right at the store.
Or check with your local upholstery shop. They usually buy it in the 5 gallon size and will often sell you a gallon if you supply you own bucket (available at any paint store). That is how I usially buy mine for "smaller" projects. That way I know that it's fresh and I don't have a lot sitting around for a long time. :D :D

texastomeh
 
#15 ·
texastomeh said:
Or check with your local upholstery shop. They usually buy it in the 5 gallon size and will often sell you a gallon if you supply you own bucket (available at any paint store). That is how I usially buy mine for "smaller" projects. That way I know that it's fresh and I don't have a lot sitting around for a long time. :D :D

texastomeh
Your lucky, I went to a few local upholstery shop looking to buy a 2 yrds of a closed cell foam to make designs in headliners. Its the same thin black foam used on vinal hard tops. All of them told me "we are not a fabric shop" Not one of them would sell me 2yrds. ended up ordering it from yourautotrim.com

I answered my own question about the counter top glue shortly after I asked.
I ordered a gallon from yourautotrim.com Thanks for all the help!
 
#16 ·
smithkustoms said:
Your lucky, I went to a few local upholstery shop looking to buy a 2 yrds of a closed cell foam to make designs in headliners. Its the same thin black foam used on vinal hard tops. All of them told me "we are not a fabric shop" Not one of them would sell me 2yrds. ended up ordering it from yourautotrim.com
Wow, they really know how to treat a customer. I would have been happy to sell you 2 yards of anything. Maybe at some point in the future you would remember that and either bring me some work or recommend me to someone else.

I hope you didn't get black closed cell Neoprene, that's a lot more expensive than Volara, which is white. It would work, but it's more than twice as expensive.
 
#18 ·
Here's a related question about the DAP HHR cement - what's the shelf life like? I've gathered all the materials for my first practice seat upholstery along with a gallon of the DAP and was wondering how best to preserve it?

Since I don't have any spray equipment I was gonna brush/roll it on (which I've read is fine to do), so my thoughts were to transfer some of the cement from the gallon can into a quart-sized can which I would use first - this way I wouldn't have to constantly open the gallon can every time I wanted to use it. Would filling the remaining space in the gallon can with propane (like with long-term paint storage) help, or not worth the effort? I'll be keeping the cans in the house so they won't be subject to freezing temps during the winter.

Thanks!
- Mike
 
#19 · (Edited)
Brimstone said:
Here's a related question about the DAP HHR cement - what's the shelf life like? I've gathered all the materials for my first practice seat upholstery along with a gallon of the DAP and was wondering how best to preserve it?

Since I don't have any spray equipment I was gonna brush/roll it on (which I've read is fine to do), so my thoughts were to transfer some of the cement from the gallon can into a quart-sized can which I would use first - this way I wouldn't have to constantly open the gallon can every time I wanted to use it. Would filling the remaining space in the gallon can with propane (like with long-term paint storage) help, or not worth the effort? I'll be keeping the cans in the house so they won't be subject to freezing temps during the winter.

Thanks!
- Mike
As far as I can say.. It has a pretty long shelf life..I have left some in a spray gun for over a month with no problem..And I have also used it by brushing it on.. As far as the propane, I have no idea about that.. Mr.Dan would sure know more about this then me.. Just letting you know what I know.. ;)
 
#20 · (Edited)
The shelf life for the glue is 12 months when kept at 70 degrees F. It will gel if stored at low temps, but it will regain it's viscosity when returned to 70 degrees. I usually buy 5 gallon cans which have their own pour spout and lid, but if I do use a gallon can, I put one of these "Pour-It" covers on the can right after I open it. That way it is sealed up, but all I have to do is unscrew the top to use the built in pour spout. I'm sure there are other tops like it available at paint stores and on the internet.
 

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#22 ·
Yea, I had noticed those covers the other day and wondered how well they would work - guess I'll go grab one or two in the near future. At least I won't have to worry about gluing the top to the can with one of those.

Well, I guess I'll see what I can use up in a year, then - I've been planning on doing the seats and door panels in my '78 T/A, guess I'll take care of that sooner rather than later. I'm gonna assume that as the cement ages it looses some of it's holding power? So then not so good for door panels, but probably still viable for gluing vinyl to sewfoam in preparation for pleats, right?
 
#23 ·
That's right, as the glue ages it will still work well for almost everything except hanging something overhead. I generally write the day I bought the glue on the side of the can.
 
#25 ·
Yes, you can use Top and Trim contact adhesive to glue foam together.

There are other contact adhesives that are intended for foam to foam applications. The one on the left is K-Grip, and the one on the right is called Kwik-Spray. Kwik-Spray comes in two different formulations, 225 which is a heavier viscosity and 220 which is not as heavy. I like the 220.

They can be sprayed from a regular spray gun, but I like to spray them from a Critter sprayer. The reason I like the Critter sprayer is that the container is just a Mason jar. If I want to change glue, all I have to do is change the Mason jar and put a lid and cap on the glue I'm not using.

The reason I like these foam to foam glues is they have a lot less fumes to them, they don't need to be perfectly dry to put the two pieces of foam together, and they aren't as aggressive as the top and trim adhesive but still hold foam together just as well. I use these glues to glue fabric to sew foam for that reason.
 

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