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  #31 (permalink)  
Old 09-04-2003, 08:10 PM
jdcoic's Avatar
The Chicken Car
 
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If you use something that is aluminum lined, like the hot water heater insulation, do you put the aluminum up or down? towards the metal floor, or towards your carpet?

Thanks

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  #32 (permalink)  
Old 09-04-2003, 09:44 PM
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Toward the carpet or free space if inside body panels. It is a radiant heat transfer barrier.
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  #33 (permalink)  
Old 09-05-2003, 03:39 PM
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Well, I guess I am a light weight, I glued down the double sided foil wrapped bubbles in my 29 high boy 5 years ago and glued the carpet to it. I have stood up and danced on this stuff (yep you may have seen me on tv at hot august nites dancing in the car), had the grandkids romp all over it etc... so far it looks a good as the day I put it in and I can not see any place the bubbles have busted. Maybe my 170 lbs is not enough to do it. and maybe I got a better brand have no idea but for me it works. later rg
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  #34 (permalink)  
Old 09-10-2003, 12:35 PM
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Angry

you can do like the total A-Hole who sold me my chevelle in Reno did: pack all the doors and quarter panels with pink fiberglass! had to sell the car after i saw that.
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  #35 (permalink)  
Old 09-10-2003, 01:08 PM
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Out of this wealth of knowledge on this thread I am shocked that only one person(yourownreality) has suggested Dynamat. The stuff is awesome.
Well I checked out Dynamat and it's very expensive. For the amount I'd need to do the doors and the roof, floors trunk lid etc. your talking hundreds of dollars. It is the best stuff for the job, but my 2 sons a wife dog house and the rest put it out of reach.

Besides I'd rather spend the money on my new motor.

Regards
Mark

Quote:
you can do like the total A-Hole who sold me my chevelle in Reno did: pack all the doors and quarter panels with pink fiberglass! had to sell the car after i saw that.
So how wet was it Bullhiemer? Which reminds me, I seem to remember something like undercoating people were having sprayed in they doors panels for a while. I think it was similar to undercoating.

Hey Willys I say the bubble pack stuff at Home Depot the other night, do you do anything to seal the edges when you use it? I was thinking of using it for my trunk lid.

Regards
Mark

Last edited by Jag Daddy; 09-10-2003 at 01:08 PM.
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  #36 (permalink)  
Old 10-02-2003, 05:54 PM
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Insulation

No laughing....but I bought a roll of water heater insulation at Home Depot. It's 1/4" thick, foil backed and looks exactly like some of the more expensive stuff out there. It was intended to be temporary but has worked so well I'm keeping it as is. Besides, at $14 for 32 sq. ft. you can't go wrong.
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  #37 (permalink)  
Old 10-08-2003, 08:56 AM
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No laughing....but I bought a roll of water heater insulation at Home Depot. It's 1/4" thick, foil backed and looks exactly like some of the more expensive stuff out there. It was intended to be temporary but has worked so well I'm keeping it as is. Besides, at $14 for 32 sq. ft. you can't go wrong.
I think I just bought the same stuff from Depot except it was 19.99 here in California. Says it has an R rating of 45, glad to hear it works so well.

Regards
Mark
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  #38 (permalink)  
Old 10-08-2003, 09:32 AM
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Quote:
Originally posted by Jag Daddy

Hey Willys I say the bubble pack stuff at Home Depot the other night, do you do anything to seal the edges when you use it? I was thinking of using it for my trunk lid.

Regards
Mark
They also sell pure aliminum metal adhesive tape to seal the joints with.
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  #39 (permalink)  
Old 12-12-2003, 01:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by Jag Daddy
Well I checked out Dynamat and it's very expensive. For the amount I'd need to do the doors and the roof, floors trunk lid etc. your talking hundreds of dollars. It is the best stuff for the job, but my 2 sons a wife dog house and the rest put it out of reach.

Regards
Mark
Dynamat can be expensive but you can get it online for cheap.

Try ikesound.com

http://ikesound.com/product-product_id/546

They have the 36 sq ft packs for $105. I covered my entire floor of my car twice with just that pack.

Jerry
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  #40 (permalink)  
Old 12-13-2003, 06:00 AM
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I'm planning on doing like aroldfut and Jag Daddy ... the Home Depot stuff sounds pretty smart to me.


Alan
54 Chevy Pickup
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  #41 (permalink)  
Old 12-13-2003, 08:14 AM
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Howdy Horvath. Haven't seen you arouond for quite a while.
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  #42 (permalink)  
Old 12-13-2003, 10:55 AM
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Howdy, bro'!

I'm here every day ... just haven't seen too many posts I can contribute to. However, I've been asked to moderate the Interior section (it's one of my favorites) and I just posted a link in the Body section to my photo tutorial about installing new door latches and strikers.


Alan
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  #43 (permalink)  
Old 12-13-2003, 11:22 AM
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Sound damping products


Hey guys check this link out they have some VERY cool stuff reasonable

More here

The spray on stuff looks interesting

Regards
Mark

Last edited by Jag Daddy; 12-13-2003 at 11:27 AM.
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  #44 (permalink)  
Old 06-15-2004, 12:35 PM
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This is my first post here on this board but I figured I had something that might work for you guys looking for extreme sound deadning. I am in the works of putting a 12 valve 5.9L Cummins Diesel into my 1989 GMC Dually. As most of you know diesels are extremely noisy.

Anyway, what I did was purchase lead sheeting and clue it down to the entire inside of the cab. The lead sheeting I used is 1/32" thick and weighs 2.5LBS per square foot. It is super plyable and easy to form to any curved surface. All I did for instalation was clean the floor, paint it with POR-15 for future rust prevention. Then I used contact cement to glue the sheeting to the floor. It is amazing how much noise is deadend by the lead. The floor before would make a dinging/tinging sound when tapped with a hammer and now it makes a real deep THUD sound. Pretty well all music theaters(Opera) use lead sheeting for sound deadning.

As far as what your all probably thinking (I know I was too when I first heard of using lead sheeting) "its poisonis" thats true but only if you eat it!!! and the melting point is 700 degree's in direct flame so its not a problem putting it right on the sheet metal.

After I put the lead down I used the aluminum buble wrap that you are all talking about and it seems to work awsome together.


Just thought I would share that info....

Thanks...Ryan
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  #45 (permalink)  
Old 06-15-2004, 02:36 PM
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RyanB - sounds good and welcome to the board
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