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  #61 (permalink)  
Old 12-16-2004, 05:29 PM
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horvath,

jute is not cotten. jute is jute from the jute plant. check goooogle.
Like the man said:
"it's your car do what ever the #### you want"........
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  #62 (permalink)  
Old 12-16-2004, 08:55 PM
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I sanded all the rust from the floors (surface rust only), went over that with some "One Step" stuff that turns rust black, once that was done @24hours, I went over it with gloss black rustoleum, let it dry, then I sprayed a coat of 3M rubberized undercoating. I don't know what the next step should be. I have all the seats out except the drivers and I am anxious to get the seats and carpet back in. I just want to be finished with the floor before I do that. I don't want to get the seats and carpet back in and realize I should have done 2 or 3 more things. I am planning on putting the double-sided aluminum stuff from Home Depot down before the carpet, and my carpet already has some sort of multi-material backing on it. The carpet covers from under the dash to halfway under the rear seat. I want to carpet the rest of the floor and the cargo area too. I would rather overkill than not do enough. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
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  #63 (permalink)  
Old 12-17-2004, 02:25 AM
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Sounds like you're ready to put the double-sided aluminum stuff down ... I would use 3M Super 77 to glue it down -- spray the floor, spray the back of the insulation, let both dry a couple minutes. Then lay your carpet, gluing it down the same way.

Red -- What I'm talking about isn't really Jute ... sorry if I offended you.

You can see what I'm talking about Here

Alan
54 Chevy Pickup

Last edited by horvath; 12-17-2004 at 02:30 AM.
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  #64 (permalink)  
Old 12-17-2004, 04:58 AM
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horvath, everybody,

no offense taken, we're both over 50, we're supposed to be crotchity old men!

but "older is wiser" right?

.................................................. .................................................. ...

Everybody,

I live in 90 degree FL, have tried "lots of stuff".....didn't see these in the thread......

Styrofoam :
I like Lowes not Home Depot, $5-6 for a pack of 4 4'x3/4x16" panels. Excellent for the roof, just hack em up with a steak knife so it's a really tight fit to hold em . Use the scrap pieces in the open interior boxed areas for more sound deadening.
Find a local "we install commercial suspended ceilings" contractor. He will probably give you a 4'x8'x1/4" sheet of styrofoam, that flexes pretty good for (ex qtr's, use your "fast and firm" 3M caulk (or similar) to glue them.
Think about this, a 1/4" thick styrofoam MacDonald's coffee cup works for their always way to hot coffee.

Aluminum roof flashing:
Stop the engine/exhaust heat before it gets into the car.
Same idea as the aluminum piece above a catalytic converter.
Ex: H pipe is really tight to the floor, "hang" a piece between the pipes and floor so there is an air gap or "roll up a piece" bigger than the pipe diameter and loosely wrap the pipe.
It's cheap, (?) $20/50' and easy to play with.
Need to make it pretty, sand it rough, spray with rattle can Duplicolor etch primer then hi-temp top coat.

Duplicolor truck bed liner spray, $7 Wally World.
It's a myth that cars don't rust down South. They just rust in the weirdest places because of the daily humidity/temp cycle.
Absolutely love the stuff, much better than the rubberized coating for floors, top and bottem, inside fenders, anything that doesn't show.
Benefit: total moisture/O2 barrier, tough as nails, easy to use (it likes a coarse sanded surface best), and later, if it does get scratched (rear wheel well?), just clean the area and spray it again, it re-wets itself so the new bonds to the old!
Not much insulating value unless you really build it up thick (20mils is OK), definitely helps for sound deadening because you can build it up
Cost to do all of the inside of a fender good and heavy, 1 can.
Do give it 3 days to fully cure.
Blow $7 and try a can on some scrap, fantastic stuff!
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  #65 (permalink)  
Old 12-18-2004, 12:46 AM
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Thanks guys. Like I said, I am just a rookie. A 34 year old rookie. I had a '57 210 wagon that had severe floor rust. I don't want that to happen here. So, I am trying to protect the floor, insulate, and sound deaden for as little money as possible.
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  #66 (permalink)  
Old 12-18-2004, 04:24 AM
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Chevydee

"an once of prevention is worth a pound of cure" very true statement.

Wish I knew how to add a pic to a post!

Had very bad floors 2 cars ago.

After replacing floors and toeboards etc on the fastback I sandblasted every inch of the interior.....About 8 hours and 10 bags of sand worth....

Picture looks like a front end loader dumped 2 yards of sand thru the rear window!!!

Sprayed it all with the Duplicolor bed liner, based on 30 years in the plastics industry experience, the steel will last another 20 years which is the life of the vinyl/xylene bedliner.
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  #67 (permalink)  
Old 12-18-2004, 08:32 PM
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I went with the 3M rubberized undercoating because I didn't realize the difference between that and the bedliner. A friend of a friend suggested putting heavy duty tar paper down on the floor before the insulation. What do you think of that? I don't see how it would hurt. He said it would help deaden sound. I don't know how to insert a picture either. If you figure it out, post the picture of the sand. That sounds pretty funny.

Last edited by Chevydee; 12-18-2004 at 08:39 PM.
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  #68 (permalink)  
Old 12-18-2004, 09:50 PM
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If you want to deaden sound you want polymeric masitc from McMaster-Carr.

How close to your exhaust is your floor? If your floor gets real hot I don't think the undercoating is going to be such a good idea.
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  #69 (permalink)  
Old 12-19-2004, 03:14 AM
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Triaged

good post, I don't think I saw using mastic in this thread.

Incase somebody doesn't know what it is, it's a live synthetic rubber, usually 1/8 or so thick, with a " no air/no cure" coating and a silicone paper liner on one side. Very soft and flexible.

Apply it just like contact paper.
Want it to really really really stick, get your wife's hair dryer......it cures and bonds with air and temp changes.

I get mine from "for free" from the roofing company that re-did our roof, it's cheap.

Excellent sound deadner for inside doors.
Excellent for filling voids in the unibody structure to seal off the trunk from the cabin (gas fumes, better A/C-heat, noise etc)
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  #70 (permalink)  
Old 12-21-2004, 09:00 PM
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I'll look for the Mastic at Lowes and Home Depot. The exhaust isn't really close to the floor at all but thanks for letting me know to look for it. I found a duct insulation at Lowes. Its the pink insulation with a foil backing. Should I use that, or stay away from the pink unsulation for the floor?
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  #71 (permalink)  
Old 12-21-2004, 09:24 PM
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Lowes and Home Depot don't sell Mastic that I know of. go to www.mcmaster.com and search for mastic.
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  #72 (permalink)  
Old 12-22-2004, 02:55 AM
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I wouldn't put fiberglas (pink) insulation anywhere in a car. You will itch forever. Want to have a really bad week, get a tiny fleck in your eye......

For the floors use the heater bubble wrap from Lowes on top of bedliner spray or rubber undercoat spray or epoxy or POR15, Etc.

to find some mastic , try some roofing supply companies.
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  #73 (permalink)  
Old 12-23-2004, 11:25 PM
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I got the bubble wrap from lowes with the aluminum sides. It may sound a little stupid but, which is the best way to lay it? Length way from front to back or side to side? I know the insulation factor would be the same but which way seems to be the easiest to lay it down? I bought a 4'x25' roll ($50.00 and some change at Lowes). I also bought aluminum insulation tape for the seams. I forgot about how itchy the pink stuff was. I used to be and electrician and had to work with it every day. Is there any restoration books you can recommend that take things from a very basic (layman term) level. The ones I have read don't say a thing about going to a hardware store for materials. they mostly wanted you to send it to California, which is great if you have that kind of money. I guess I am looking for "The Way to Make a Great Daily Driver Out of a '57 Nomad When You Have 2 Kids and a Wife Who Doesn't Work Restoration Guide." Do you know of anything like that? Happy Holidays

Last edited by Chevydee; 12-23-2004 at 11:38 PM.
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  #74 (permalink)  
Old 12-28-2004, 07:03 AM
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Quote:
Originally posted by Chevydee
I got the bubble wrap from lowes with the aluminum sides. It may sound a little stupid but, which is the best way to lay it? Length way from front to back or side to side? I know the insulation factor would be the same but which way seems to be the easiest to lay it down? I bought a 4'x25' roll ($50.00 and some change at Lowes). I also bought aluminum insulation tape for the seams. I forgot about how itchy the pink stuff was. I used to be and electrician and had to work with it every day. Is there any restoration books you can recommend that take things from a very basic (layman term) level. The ones I have read don't say a thing about going to a hardware store for materials. they mostly wanted you to send it to California, which is great if you have that kind of money. I guess I am looking for "The Way to Make a Great Daily Driver Out of a '57 Nomad When You Have 2 Kids and a Wife Who Doesn't Work Restoration Guide." Do you know of anything like that? Happy Holidays

I just got done (yesterday), insulating the firewall of my '46 with the mylar/buble wrap insulation.. I installed side to side. I also found it was easier to work with in 2'X4' sections, so you can cut out for wires, etc...

If anyone else has used the mylar.bubble wrap insulation, lem'me know how it works, the package said it stops 99% of heat transfer. (crosses fingers)


Gooch
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  #75 (permalink)  
Old 01-04-2005, 09:05 PM
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Interior Insulation

I used the products from the following outfit....

Insulshield Technology

I did the complete interior of my 33 Plymouth using their products and I get NO heat from anywhere, noise is not a problem with the windows closed. I have side dump exhaust so not much more I can do.

The panel deadeners are great and take away all the metal tininess when used.
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