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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 11-19-2006, 04:23 PM
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I've been told that the only glue to use for interiors is Helmetin Green.

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  #17 (permalink)  
Old 11-20-2006, 07:20 AM
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That's like saying the only car to drive is a Dodge. But maybe you would say that Hemi. (LOL) Not all name brands are readily available in all areas of the country. There are lots of high temperature spray contact adhesives on the market, and all of them work well. Just make sure that the adhesive is intended for high temperature work. jmho.
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Old 11-20-2006, 03:16 PM
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Hemi.. Where can I buy that Helmetin Green??, and how does it com?? I have to put down gray and black suede on the panels i make.. Thanks..
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Old 11-20-2006, 05:57 PM
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Try your local Interior Shop as they should carry it in bulk but you will need a siphon sprayer or an old paint gun. It comes in 4L(1 gallon) can, or I buy it in a 13L pail.This product gives you not only a working time but if you need to reposition it you can.Take a steel or glass container (with a lid)with you as it will eat through some containers.
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Old 11-21-2006, 07:25 AM
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Spraying contact adhesive is different than spraying paint or even glue used to join open cell foam. That's obvious because their viscosities are so much different. I have a "Critter" sprayer (small sprayer with an attached glass jar) to spray the K-Grip glue that I use to bond open cell foam, and it has worked like a champ for 14 years, but it won't spray contact adhesive. You need a larger fluid nozzle to spray contact adhesive, at least 1.8 MM. Find a cheap paint gun ($19.95 USD)with lousy tolerances and it will probably work fine, or get larger fluid nozzles for your paint guns. I would definitely check the Helmetin web site or the side of the can to see if you could or should reduce the adhesive. My DAP Weldwood landau top and trim adhesive (spray grade) cans say to definitely NOT thin the product.
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Old 11-21-2006, 05:30 PM
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I thought that maybe it would come in a spray can. Though I do have a cheapy $27.00 gun that I bought at Checker Auto Parts..
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Old 11-22-2006, 07:23 AM
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I have a can of high temp spray trim contact adhesive from Performance Products, but I don't think it works worth a darn. 3M makes a 24 oz. can of aerosol trim adhesive (#08090), but it retails for about $30. If you're only doing a small amount, the spray can will probably work for you. I don't know what Helmetin green costs, but Dap Landau top & trim adhesive (spray grade) goes for about $35 a gallon retail, and that works great.
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Old 11-23-2006, 06:47 AM
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Just my two cents, but it's worth a shot.

Go to a custom counter top or cabinet shop and ask them what they use to spray contact cement with. There must be at least one or two of these shops in most areas. I'm sure they spray contact cement because I worked in such a shop years ago, but as a cabinet maker, not a counter top maker. I really don't know what kind of gun they used, only that they used one. I'm almost positive they didn't thin down the cement - just poured it into the cup right out of the can. And yeah, the sprayed on contact cement did have a rough, pebble finished look to it.
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Old 11-23-2006, 07:13 AM
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Dusty: Happy Thanksgiving. That's a great suggestion, but the adhesive they use would not need to be high temperature resistant. For a car interior you need to use an adhesive that's intended for that use. I'm sure they could help with what equipment they use to spray it and the techniques they use though.
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Old 11-23-2006, 10:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DanTwoLakes
Dusty: Happy Thanksgiving. That's a great suggestion, but the adhesive they use would not need to be high temperature resistant. For a car interior you need to use an adhesive that's intended for that use. I'm sure they could help with what equipment they use to spray it and the techniques they use though.
A Happy Thanksgiving to you and yours, Dan!

You're right - I was referring more to the equipment they used to spray the contact cement rather than the actual contact cement itself. And it's true, the glue they used in making laminate countertops wasn't high temperature resistant (in fact, one way of removing laminate from the wood substrate is to use a household iron to heat up the laminate and soften the glue so you can peel it off - it destroys the laminate, but it comes off) but I'm sure the consistency of the product being sprayed is at least similar. I would also imagine they could help a person out with any tricks of the trade or tips such as pressure settings, spray patterns, and the like.
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Old 11-29-2006, 06:10 PM
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What thickness of PVC should be used on something like a'34 Ford five window coupe? Just for flat panels no fancy contuored stuff. Thanks... Old treads never die with lurkers like me...Should I start a new thread to ask about panel clips?
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  #27 (permalink)  
Old 11-29-2006, 07:36 PM
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All you need for panel thickness is 1/8", whether it is black waterboard, ABS, Masonite, or PVC foamboard. That is a personal preference. What I say next is also a personal preference. Others may like something else, but what I like are long Au-ve-co offset clips. I drill or punch a 1/2" hole 5/8" (horizontally) away from where I want the the clip to go. I put the clips in after the door panel is upholstered. (don't glue the foam, whether it is open or closed cell foam, or whatever padding you choose, 2" around the holes so the clips are easily maneuverable (Is that spelled right?) ) Then I don't have to deal with the clips in the panel while I put the foam and fabric (fabric, vinyl, Ultraleather, or leather) together. Also, the clips are easily swiveled to hit the holes in the door, and do not bind horizontally or vertically. In other words, the clips are not installed into the panel until I'm ready to install it, and are easy to adjust. PERSONAL PREFERENCE. This works well for me, but you may like another method. KristKustoms: Please jump in here with both feet! There is no one perfect way to do ANYTHING. Remember: check how much thickness is allowable IN YOUR CAR before you do the door panels. There is nothing worse that doing a perfect set of door panels and not being able to close the doors when you're done.
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  #28 (permalink)  
Old 11-29-2006, 08:38 PM
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I agree with Dan. This is the same method that we use and I will add if you have a bulky carpet at the bottom don't forget to cut back about a 1/4 inch to wrap the carpet on the bottom or if you are binding the carpet where it meets the vinyl you will have to V notch for the extra bulk.If you have trim rings at the top around the door sometimes you have to stop the panel below and just run the vinyl and foam under it.We use clear plastic very thin to make our patterns to see armrest mount holes/clip holes/window cranks and handles then transfer this to your board, it also makes it easy to make the edge of the door as you can see it. Then it you use a dry erase marker you can draw a pattern to see what it looks like!
Jason
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Old 12-02-2006, 07:41 AM
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Hey, Dan and Jason Thanks for the replies. AFTER I posted my panel thickness question I thought about doin' a site search for 'door panels' and found some info. I then thought "darn I should have seached first" and felt sorry that I posted the question. Then you guys throw in a couple more great tips and saved my butt about feelin' sorry about premature postin'.
THANKS to eveyrone on this board. I like all of the different ideas and the " this works for me but, it's not the only way to do it" attitudes.
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  #30 (permalink)  
Old 12-02-2006, 09:51 AM
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Thanks, glad to help. Remember the old saying "the only stupid question is one that goes un-asked" I've been doing this for over 30 years, and raw materials and methods change all the time. Someone is always out there with a better mousetrap. Now let's see some pictures of the finished product when you're done!
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