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Old 12-03-2003, 06:03 PM
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iron duke... very retarded (literally)

2.5L Iron duke... 8.3 or so compression (electric fan conversion, 165degree thermostat, but all stock)

Reman head, new plugs, wires, dist cap and rotor.

88 Chevy S-10, 5spd... TBI

ok well, my head gasket blew, and i ended up swapping on a FWD head, and it pinged like crazy and ran like crap... I havent touched anything timing related.

Anyways... now... about 5 months after the head swap, ive been noticing it hesitating, uasually in 3rd 4th or 5th, when i give it gas, usually around 2500 and up.

no matter what gas i run, it always seems to do it.. it just hesitates and hesitates for about 2 or 3 seconds when i give it, even moderate gas.

I checked my timing today, for the first time in a while, and its reading about -15 degrees at idle, and i didnt check for when it kicks it up.

Well i have never done timing, so thats why im posting on here before i go screw something up. I am guessing i want to set it up around 0 and then see where to go from there. More power is always a plus, but never easily obtained on my engine.

I just posted on here, to make sure it IS the problem, and im not going to make anything worse, or anything i should know before i follow the instructions under the hood... aka ground this, and so on so forth.... concidering it is EFI.


Any help is appriciated.


Would Negitive Timing (thats numbers BTDC right?) make me miss? i thought more positive numbers would lead to ping... maybe it works both ways



Thank you everyone!


Brian

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Old 12-03-2003, 09:20 PM
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Your basic problem is there are like six different designs of 2.5 heads and very few are correctly interchangable. There are different combustion chamber designs and valve sizes, different valve length and rocker stand heights, different intake and exhaust manifold bolt patterns and even different head bolt patterns (I E a "U" motor or an "R" motor). You cannot mix castings. Whatever the head casting number that you had has to be replaced with the same casting number or you will never get it to run correctly
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Old 12-03-2003, 09:54 PM
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Normally 10* is a starting point for your initial timing. Make sure you unplug the vacuum lines and bring the idle down to around 750. Assuming you are reading the tab correctly ( shooting the timing light from the drivers side) the timing mark should advance upward when increased. Loosen the distributor bolt and turn the distributor to retard or advance the timing. The reason you are pinging is probably because you are running those FWD heads. They are most likely higher compression and if you don't reset your timing after adding new components you lose performance and run into problems. Also make sure your vacuum advance is working, and check the centrifical advance weights and springs in the distributor(if it is an HEI). Other than that, bad wires could cause you to miss if they are arcing. Now that I just thought about it, if it is EFI you may not be able to mess with the timing. The timing is set by the computer and there is no way to change it. The good thing is computer controlled timing sets it self (has knock sensors) so you have the best performance without pinging. It all depends if your timing is computer controlled or distributor controlled.
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Old 12-03-2003, 11:46 PM
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i got a reman head that the factory said was the correct head for my truck, so im not running a FWD head anymore.

As far as HEI or not, im not sure, its tucked under the side mounted intake manifold and is a real pain in the *** to even see... i set the timing to 0*, just to see if it runs any better... it doesnt seem to miss on idle, but still misses the same when cruising.


The tab for reading timing is on the passenger's side. Its reading 0* timing. It would move a little when it missed before, but now its not missing.... Im thinking maybe i got some water in the distrubutor when i was going on one of my crazy hose everything engine cleaning frenzies, while i was doing the head. If the points are copper they could oxidize and just make the whole sparking process go down the toilet... which would explain it idling better then actually driving.


I have no idea how to check the cintrifigual (sp) timing advance, like i said, i can barely see the damn distributor, much less, inspect components surrounding it.... could the coil be going south and causing less spark?

It only misses when i give it more then about 1\4 gas.


I have a newer O2 sensor too

What did you say about shooting the light from the drivers side? if the tab is on the passengers side, i dont see how that would work. Maybe im just crazy


Thanks for the help

Brian
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Old 12-04-2003, 05:27 AM
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Don't know if this will help or not, but I had similar problems in my iron duked Fiero (what a POS!). Turned out to be my throttle position sensor on the carb went bad.
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Old 12-04-2003, 09:29 AM
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If it's missing only under a load, check the wires, plugs!
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Old 12-04-2003, 09:39 AM
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found the problem

I know what i need now.... a SBC conversion


I wish...


Anyways, im going to take off the cap and rotor, and if theyre junky then ill get new stuff, i replaced those not too long ago, but might as well check..... i have made sure my wires are tight 15 times, but maybe taking them off and putting them back on would help.

Ill do that when it warms up a bit, and i wake up more.


Anyone seen some weird conversions? Like an iron duke in a suburban, or a volvo inline 6 in a jaguar?


Always retarded, never advanced

-Brian
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Old 12-04-2003, 09:43 AM
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The wires could be shorting to grd somewhere under a load! Not just loose!
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Old 12-04-2003, 10:18 AM
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thats true, ill spray some carb cleaner where i think they are shorting



hehhehee oh yeah, different then intake leak


ill listen, and see if i can see anything, if not, ill do the whole dark thing, and see if i can see any light


-brian
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Old 12-04-2003, 12:08 PM
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That's hard to do with a standard trans, look for white discoloration anywhere on the wire!
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Old 12-06-2003, 12:00 AM
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i was driving through the target parking lot today, and i went to rev on a riceboy, and it backfired out the intake..... nothing big, but you could hear a "THUMP" ..... needless to say, i doubt he was impressed


I took of the DIST cap and rotor and everything looked ok, a little bit of wear showing, but no discoloration or carbon or anything. I have about 5000 miles on that cap and rotor, and it shows it.


The timing backed itself off, back to -15...... apparently the timing wasnt the problem



Thank you so much for your help


Brian

Quote:
Originally posted by Busted Knuckles
Don't know if this will help or not, but I had similar problems in my iron duked Fiero (what a POS!). Turned out to be my throttle position sensor on the carb went bad.



Could the TPS be the problem?

Last edited by dukin-it-out; 12-06-2003 at 12:00 AM.
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Old 12-06-2003, 02:40 PM
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Old 12-06-2003, 06:01 PM
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Go to this site, sign in, join, what ever you have to do to get access to posting and tell them what your problems are and ask for help. www.chevytalk.com/


Todd


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