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Old 01-20-2011, 04:39 PM
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One thought is it could be carb icing. This is a common issue in cold weather.
The velocity going thru the carb is so high the humidity becomes ice and sticks to the butterflies, also plugging up the idle circuits so the carb is forced to pull from the main circuits which creates a really rich mixture. In the really cold weather with my cutlass I had to run sea foam in every tank of gas to keep it from doing it. Since mine was a Vortec that had no heat cross over at the intake there was nothing to combat this problem. I could have likedly rigged up a stove pipe but when you`ve got jet hot coated headers who wants to make them look bad with a stove pipe?

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Old 01-20-2011, 05:07 PM
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Hello DV yeah I have heard of that before but I did not think but that could be happening on the occasion. I don't have the exhaust heat function working on my setup. I use the felpro type gaskets for my edelbrock intake and they are blocked off.

It is kind of a bad thing to not be using one during the winter time but can cause a lot of issues during summer so I don't bother messing with it. I have went without it or any kind of stove pipe setup no problem during last winter. Just had other issues which now have been fixed.

The electric choke will help with better choke operation. My Dad has a holley like mine but his is the electric choke version and his runs very well on startup with no issues no matter what temp it is out side.

Even though I got my choke marked sometimes it is either too much or too little and is a pain. I have done a lot of reading on the electric choke and it seems easier to tune wise just by turning the choke housing one way for richer and the other way for leaner and go by the marks on the housing.

Also if I have my secondary's open too much could that cause a problem with extreme cold starts as well? I crack my secondary's open more then what holley specs at cause I don't want my primary butterflies open too much and have the transfer slot exposed more then .020 to .030 thousandths.

The transfer slots in the secondaries are not even close to being exposed but they are open a bit more then what holley says to have at initial setting. My idle when warm is about 750 rpm and I run full manifold on vacuum advance.

Eric
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Old 01-20-2011, 05:52 PM
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My Quadrajet was new from SMI. The electric choke did not function correctly and wouldn`t adjust. After the car was warmed up, I`d be in the middle of traffic, feather the throttle to move up a few feet at a red light and all of a sudden the high idle would kick in and the car would take off, I almost plowed into the car in front of me. Needless to say after that, I by passed the electric choke and tied the choke flap open. Doing a cold start I`d pump it three times and start it. I`d keep on lightly feathering the throttle until it would hold at 1800 RPM. After a few minutes it had cleared it`s throat I`d let it return to idle. On the Demon I used to have, I had the secondary`s adjusted far closed as they could go. One time before when a friend of mine was fooling with the secondary adjustment he got it too far open and it wouldn`t idle down by the primary adjustment, and trying to drive a car that idles at 1100 rpm is difficult. It sounds like yours is okay, as if its too far open you`d know as the primary won`t idle it down.
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Old 01-21-2011, 12:11 PM
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Well that sounds like some interesting driving been there before but not with choke problems. Happend to me one time when my return spring got binded up and my throttle cable housing broke in the bracket and that was very scary for me while I was going down the highway.

I should not have any issues with my holley electric choke. My dad has the same carb as my holley 1850 model except his is the 80457 model which is same as mine just electric choke is already on it.

He has a ford 302 pretty much stock and his works great year round and he did not even really have to mess with it just set the idle speed and it was good to go. As long as mine works like it's supposed to should be a pice of cake. Take care
Eric
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