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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 09-03-2012, 06:38 PM
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max idle fuel pressure with eddy/carter carbs 5 to 5.5psi.
very critical. These carbs are great carbs but real touchy on carb body manifold plenum temp and fuel pressure.

95% of carbs problems with this type of carb is due to one or both of these factors.

It will come around for you.

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Old 09-03-2012, 06:41 PM
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I'm working on it as hard as I can to solve it.
Thanks it was mentioned to me about the distributor curve.
I also have a Holley fuel pressure regulator on it, set to 5.5PSI
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Old 09-03-2012, 06:43 PM
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solid wire core spark plug wires are nothing but trouble on electronic ignition.
big spark plug gaps are not your friend either.

the radiant EMF can and will fry ignition modules.
Not to mention drive you nuts with radio noise.
big spark plug gaps promote cap rotor arcing and carbon tracking and burned up distributor.

.035" is plenty.

The spiral wound spark plug wires like MSD work good.
Genuine GM hi perf wires work good too.
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Old 09-03-2012, 06:51 PM
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Sometimes the holley regulator fuel pressure can creap up when things get hot.
Especially when plumbed in a "dead head configuration"

A configuration with a return fuel line to the tank where fuel is always circulating is best
for pressure control and fuel line heat management.

When i use a carter or edelbrock carb ( and do not want to use a return style fuel line configuration) I like to use a fuel pump with 5 to 6psi pressure tops and no fuel pressure regulator at all.

I like the carter P4070 electric pump for this. or a 5psi carter mechanical pump and this P4070 as a helper/pusher pump to eliminate hot motor. "vapour lock."

low fuel pressure is your friend for AFB carbs.
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Old 09-03-2012, 06:58 PM
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That's what I was told, I grabbed a carter hi volume pump because the fuel was vaporizing in the filter, then I find out the Specter regulator had quit. that was the problem, I installed a sending unit in my tank with a return on it so if I need to install one I can if need should ever arise.
My old pump is now ng, it sat to long, I tried to use it and it must of dried out.
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Old 09-03-2012, 10:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by F-BIRD'88 View Post
solid wire core spark plug wires are nothing but trouble on electronic ignition.
big spark plug gaps are not your friend either.

the radiant EMF can and will fry ignition modules.
Not to mention drive you nuts with radio noise.
big spark plug gaps promote cap rotor arcing and carbon tracking and burned up distributor.

.035" is plenty.

The spiral wound spark plug wires like MSD work good.
Genuine GM hi perf wires work good too.
I have Accel 8mm set on her.
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Old 09-03-2012, 10:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by F-BIRD'88 View Post
From your old posts the XE256 cam you got needs tuning of the distributor curve.

will want 14 to 16deg at idle and 32 to 36deg at max advance.

(16 to 20deg mech advance curve limit)

Then: the vacuum advance rae and limit needs to be dialed in too.
15deg limit 8 to 12deg vac advance commin in at hiway cruise speeds.
Now you can start tuning the carb.

Edelbrock performer manifold and edelbrock/carter carbs:

The aluminum manifold is very touchy on its running temperture.
This is controled by the amount of exhaust flow up thru the heat riser passage.

Open full heat riser flow is always too much (manifold/carb way too hot)
usually blocked off or one side blockd and one side restricted (1/4 to 3/8" hole)
is just right.

Once you ahev corrected this, further carb body temp control is achieved using a edelbrock wood carb spacer
(divided style or 4 hole style) wood is a very good heat isolator.
Keep the fuel lines away from heat. Move and shield as required.

Now that you got the manifold plenum /carb body temp right and the ignition right
you will find dialing in the carb (any carb) real easy.

Start by verifying true TDC on your balancer/timing tab using a piston stop and get or make a balancer timing tape.

Or keep buying and trying new carbs until you are broke.
Box up and mail me any all the carbs you don;t like.
I have this spacer:
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  #23 (permalink)  
Old 09-03-2012, 10:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by F-BIRD'88 View Post
From your old posts the XE256 cam you got needs tuning of the distributor curve.

will want 14 to 16deg at idle and 32 to 36deg at max advance.

(16 to 20deg mech advance curve limit)

Then: the vacuum advance rae and limit needs to be dialed in too.
15deg limit 8 to 12deg vac advance commin in at hiway cruise speeds.
Now you can start tuning the carb.

Edelbrock performer manifold and edelbrock/carter carbs:

The aluminum manifold is very touchy on its running temperture.
This is controled by the amount of exhaust flow up thru the heat riser passage.

Open full heat riser flow is always too much (manifold/carb way too hot)
usually blocked off or one side blockd and one side restricted (1/4 to 3/8" hole)
is just right.

Once you ahev corrected this, further carb body temp control is achieved using a edelbrock wood carb spacer
(divided style or 4 hole style) wood is a very good heat isolator.
Keep the fuel lines away from heat. Move and shield as required.

Now that you got the manifold plenum /carb body temp right and the ignition right
you will find dialing in the carb (any carb) real easy.

Start by verifying true TDC on your balancer/timing tab using a piston stop and get or make a balancer timing tape.

Or keep buying and trying new carbs until you are broke.
Box up and mail me any all the carbs you don;t like.
Actually they are all boxed up, on a shelf for now, what you gonna do with them?
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Old 09-03-2012, 11:13 PM
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I will find a good home for them. Especially if you got a pair of matching carbs.
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Old 09-03-2012, 11:26 PM
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that heat spacer will work . You may also need the edelbrock thin steel perfomer carb adapter
to seal the square bore carb to a dual flange carb base (performer manifold)
Now you got the get the exhaust heat riser passage flow and plenum heat just right.
If you do not drive in cold winter and want the most power and the coolest possible carb
block off the ex heat passages on the intake gasket with steel sheet metal shims.
Block both sides.

If you drive in winter but not in the High arctic like in Canada, block one side and restrict the flow of the other side.
Getting the carb body and manifold plenum temp just right is critical.
1/4 to 3/8" hole in one shim.
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Old 09-03-2012, 11:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by raguza123 View Post
I have Accel 8mm set on her.
Never been crazy about accel wires. Solid core or resistor core/spiral wound (radio noise resistant) ?
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  #27 (permalink)  
Old 09-04-2012, 06:53 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by F-BIRD'88 View Post
Never been crazy about accel wires. Solid core or resistor core/spiral wound (radio noise resistant) ?
Spiral wound radio supression core.
It is the only ones they had available, nothing else, Accel Came from this area originally, I put the solid core away should I ever go back to points.
Either it's Accel or Napa wires, I'm not a big fan of Napa wires, When I get it running like I want, I'm probably gonna go back to AC Delco wires.
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Old 09-04-2012, 08:16 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by F-BIRD'88 View Post
that heat spacer will work . You may also need the edelbrock thin steel perfomer carb adapter
to seal the square bore carb to a dual flange carb base (performer manifold)
Now you got the get the exhaust heat riser passage flow and plenum heat just right.
If you do not drive in cold winter and want the most power and the coolest possible carb
block off the ex heat passages on the intake gasket with steel sheet metal shims.
Block both sides.

If you drive in winter but not in the High arctic like in Canada, block one side and restrict the flow of the other side.
Getting the carb body and manifold plenum temp just right is critical.
1/4 to 3/8" hole in one shim.
F-BIRD'88 I got a question on using the steel shims. Will I get any vacuum leaks using the steel shims? Can I use RTV to hold the shims in place? Anything else I will have to do or know?
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Old 09-04-2012, 09:12 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cdminter59 View Post
F-BIRD'88 I got a question on using the steel shims. Will I get any vacuum leaks using the steel shims? Can I use RTV to hold the shims in place? Anything else I will have to do or know?
All you'll need is a gasket on the manifold, then shim, then gasket, then spacer, then gasket, then carb. pretty much in that order.
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Old 09-04-2012, 10:22 AM
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Did you do a breakin again when you installed new lifters? Even one new lifter requires you do the 20 min. cam breakin again or it will wipe out the lifters/cam.
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