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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 09-03-2012, 10:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by F-BIRD'88 View Post
From your old posts the XE256 cam you got needs tuning of the distributor curve.

will want 14 to 16deg at idle and 32 to 36deg at max advance.

(16 to 20deg mech advance curve limit)

Then: the vacuum advance rae and limit needs to be dialed in too.
15deg limit 8 to 12deg vac advance commin in at hiway cruise speeds.
Now you can start tuning the carb.

Edelbrock performer manifold and edelbrock/carter carbs:

The aluminum manifold is very touchy on its running temperture.
This is controled by the amount of exhaust flow up thru the heat riser passage.

Open full heat riser flow is always too much (manifold/carb way too hot)
usually blocked off or one side blockd and one side restricted (1/4 to 3/8" hole)
is just right.

Once you ahev corrected this, further carb body temp control is achieved using a edelbrock wood carb spacer
(divided style or 4 hole style) wood is a very good heat isolator.
Keep the fuel lines away from heat. Move and shield as required.

Now that you got the manifold plenum /carb body temp right and the ignition right
you will find dialing in the carb (any carb) real easy.

Start by verifying true TDC on your balancer/timing tab using a piston stop and get or make a balancer timing tape.

Or keep buying and trying new carbs until you are broke.
Box up and mail me any all the carbs you don;t like.
Actually they are all boxed up, on a shelf for now, what you gonna do with them?

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  #17 (permalink)  
Old 09-04-2012, 06:53 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by F-BIRD'88 View Post
Never been crazy about accel wires. Solid core or resistor core/spiral wound (radio noise resistant) ?
Spiral wound radio supression core.
It is the only ones they had available, nothing else, Accel Came from this area originally, I put the solid core away should I ever go back to points.
Either it's Accel or Napa wires, I'm not a big fan of Napa wires, When I get it running like I want, I'm probably gonna go back to AC Delco wires.
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  #18 (permalink)  
Old 09-04-2012, 08:16 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by F-BIRD'88 View Post
that heat spacer will work . You may also need the edelbrock thin steel perfomer carb adapter
to seal the square bore carb to a dual flange carb base (performer manifold)
Now you got the get the exhaust heat riser passage flow and plenum heat just right.
If you do not drive in cold winter and want the most power and the coolest possible carb
block off the ex heat passages on the intake gasket with steel sheet metal shims.
Block both sides.

If you drive in winter but not in the High arctic like in Canada, block one side and restrict the flow of the other side.
Getting the carb body and manifold plenum temp just right is critical.
1/4 to 3/8" hole in one shim.
F-BIRD'88 I got a question on using the steel shims. Will I get any vacuum leaks using the steel shims? Can I use RTV to hold the shims in place? Anything else I will have to do or know?
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Old 09-04-2012, 09:12 AM
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Originally Posted by cdminter59 View Post
F-BIRD'88 I got a question on using the steel shims. Will I get any vacuum leaks using the steel shims? Can I use RTV to hold the shims in place? Anything else I will have to do or know?
All you'll need is a gasket on the manifold, then shim, then gasket, then spacer, then gasket, then carb. pretty much in that order.
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Old 09-04-2012, 10:22 AM
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Did you do a breakin again when you installed new lifters? Even one new lifter requires you do the 20 min. cam breakin again or it will wipe out the lifters/cam.
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Old 09-04-2012, 11:02 AM
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Originally Posted by 1971BB427 View Post
Did you do a breakin again when you installed new lifters? Even one new lifter requires you do the 20 min. cam breakin again or it will wipe out the lifters/cam.
Yes I did the 20 min Idle and then set the valve lash again.
Now I seem to get low oil pumping out the pushrod,when they are tight, when loosen up the rockers and they are chattering oil pumps everywhere out of the pushrod.
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Old 09-04-2012, 06:11 PM
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i'll tell you a trick i've used with great success on carb gaskets... take a small amount of axle grease with your finger and apply around the gasket, both sides. Lay the heat plate on that. apply grease to both sides of the next gasket, set the carb on there and bolt it down. Prevent leaks great! Note: It does not take much grease, just enough to form a small seal around the gasket, it also helps seperate older gaskets later if you, for some reason you need to remove them.
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Old 09-04-2012, 06:21 PM
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I like to use wd40 on them, but that's a good idea it oils them up and they come off easy.
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Old 09-04-2012, 06:23 PM
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F-Bird is the reason I love sites like this.

F-Bird shows that there is always someone with the right answer if you can find him. Getting it here, for free, is a great thing.

By the way, there are several very good ooil deflector tins available through most auto parts stores to deflect all the oil from splashing everywhere during valve lash adjustment. Once you buy a set you will wonder why you didn't think of it they are so simple. I highly recommend them for anyone doing "open valvve cover surgery" on their valves. Just a thought...
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Old 09-04-2012, 06:28 PM
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dwb, I had no problems with oil going everywhere, that's what I was writing about, it's real odd.
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Old 09-05-2012, 09:49 AM
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I also agree F-Bird does know alot and makes some sense of it all.
What's really nice is how helpful everyone is.
Tossing up a lot of ideas.
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  #27 (permalink)  
Old 09-05-2012, 02:23 PM
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Ok I have the recurve kit and a new advance can. I grabbed new Gaskets for the intake manifold, I was curious how do I install the block off in there, on what side of the gasket does it go?
I waiting on the new Pushrod cover(valley pan) gasket, while I am there I might as well open it up and look in see if there are any issues there plus it's starting to leak.
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  #28 (permalink)  
Old 09-05-2012, 03:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by raguza123 View Post
dwb, I had no problems with oil going everywhere, that's what I was writing about, it's real odd.
There's a possibility you're oiling holes between the pushrod and rocker aren't lining up, pushrod wrong length, guideplate issue if used or incorrect, etc., that could be not allowing sufficient oil to the upper end. I've seen burrs in pushrod pockets blocking oil, you can clean them up gently with a drill.
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Old 09-05-2012, 07:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by raguza123 View Post
Yes I did the 20 min Idle and then set the valve lash again.
Now I seem to get low oil pumping out the pushrod,when they are tight, when loosen up the rockers and they are chattering oil pumps everywhere out of the pushrod.
I hope you didn't let it 'IDLE' for the 20min break in....

Duke
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  #30 (permalink)  
Old 09-05-2012, 08:12 PM
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Originally Posted by thinwhiteduke View Post
I hope you didn't let it 'IDLE' for the 20min break in....

Duke
Yes it wasn't just an low idle, actually Comp Cams recommends 30 mins. at 2000 rpm's, but that's for breaking in a new cam and lifters.
Lifters only I did the 2000 rpm's at 15 mins. and then changed the oil.
I will know the condition of the cam and lifters tomorrow as the top of the engine is coming off for inspection.
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