I've been told to check my Valve Lash? - Page 3 - Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board
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  #31 (permalink)  
Old 09-04-2012, 10:02 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1971BB427 View Post
Did you do a breakin again when you installed new lifters? Even one new lifter requires you do the 20 min. cam breakin again or it will wipe out the lifters/cam.
Yes I did the 20 min Idle and then set the valve lash again.
Now I seem to get low oil pumping out the pushrod,when they are tight, when loosen up the rockers and they are chattering oil pumps everywhere out of the pushrod.

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  #32 (permalink)  
Old 09-04-2012, 05:11 PM
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i'll tell you a trick i've used with great success on carb gaskets... take a small amount of axle grease with your finger and apply around the gasket, both sides. Lay the heat plate on that. apply grease to both sides of the next gasket, set the carb on there and bolt it down. Prevent leaks great! Note: It does not take much grease, just enough to form a small seal around the gasket, it also helps seperate older gaskets later if you, for some reason you need to remove them.
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  #33 (permalink)  
Old 09-04-2012, 05:21 PM
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I like to use wd40 on them, but that's a good idea it oils them up and they come off easy.
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Old 09-04-2012, 05:23 PM
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F-Bird is the reason I love sites like this.

F-Bird shows that there is always someone with the right answer if you can find him. Getting it here, for free, is a great thing.

By the way, there are several very good ooil deflector tins available through most auto parts stores to deflect all the oil from splashing everywhere during valve lash adjustment. Once you buy a set you will wonder why you didn't think of it they are so simple. I highly recommend them for anyone doing "open valvve cover surgery" on their valves. Just a thought...
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  #35 (permalink)  
Old 09-04-2012, 05:28 PM
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dwb, I had no problems with oil going everywhere, that's what I was writing about, it's real odd.
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  #36 (permalink)  
Old 09-05-2012, 08:49 AM
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I also agree F-Bird does know alot and makes some sense of it all.
What's really nice is how helpful everyone is.
Tossing up a lot of ideas.
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  #37 (permalink)  
Old 09-05-2012, 01:23 PM
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Ok I have the recurve kit and a new advance can. I grabbed new Gaskets for the intake manifold, I was curious how do I install the block off in there, on what side of the gasket does it go?
I waiting on the new Pushrod cover(valley pan) gasket, while I am there I might as well open it up and look in see if there are any issues there plus it's starting to leak.
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  #38 (permalink)  
Old 09-05-2012, 02:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by raguza123 View Post
dwb, I had no problems with oil going everywhere, that's what I was writing about, it's real odd.
There's a possibility you're oiling holes between the pushrod and rocker aren't lining up, pushrod wrong length, guideplate issue if used or incorrect, etc., that could be not allowing sufficient oil to the upper end. I've seen burrs in pushrod pockets blocking oil, you can clean them up gently with a drill.
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  #39 (permalink)  
Old 09-05-2012, 06:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by raguza123 View Post
Yes I did the 20 min Idle and then set the valve lash again.
Now I seem to get low oil pumping out the pushrod,when they are tight, when loosen up the rockers and they are chattering oil pumps everywhere out of the pushrod.
I hope you didn't let it 'IDLE' for the 20min break in....

Duke
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  #40 (permalink)  
Old 09-05-2012, 07:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thinwhiteduke View Post
I hope you didn't let it 'IDLE' for the 20min break in....

Duke
Yes it wasn't just an low idle, actually Comp Cams recommends 30 mins. at 2000 rpm's, but that's for breaking in a new cam and lifters.
Lifters only I did the 2000 rpm's at 15 mins. and then changed the oil.
I will know the condition of the cam and lifters tomorrow as the top of the engine is coming off for inspection.
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  #41 (permalink)  
Old 09-06-2012, 06:58 AM
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I looked at my distrib. specs and it seems to do what F-Bird says it should do these are the specs:
If the rebuilder set it to specs are:
Centr. adv. starts at 800rpm's
Interm. points deg. 23-27@1900 and 32-36@4600
Max. deg. 32-36@6000
Vacuum advance
starts at 6-8"hg
max.deg. 20@13-15"
I'm gonna change the weights and the advance unit anyway, always best to have new working units.
I also will pull the intake and the pushrod cover and do an inspection of cam and lifters, check things out plus my cover has a little leak, and gonna blank off the heat riser, no hole, not needed, don't run it in the winter and the engine gets hot enough.
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  #42 (permalink)  
Old 09-06-2012, 07:57 AM
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I disassembled the distributor this morning and found that the bushing I'm supposed to replace isn't there, a plastic one, on the limiter,
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  #43 (permalink)  
Old 09-06-2012, 01:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by raguza123 View Post
I disassembled the distributor this morning and found that the bushing I'm supposed to replace isn't there, a plastic one, on the limiter,
Yeah, well that bush needs to be there to limit the mech advance. If they are plastic, they do wear in time. I had one disintergrate on my 383 back in the seventies. Started pinging all of a sudden, couldn't work it out for a while.
I'd be having it spun up on a distributor graph to make sure of what you've got.
Those figures you reckoned on the dissy advance curve points, are you taking the static setting into account or is that just mechanical advance. That seems a lot, even without the bush missing. Doesn't give you much room to set your initial advance up much?

Duke
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  #44 (permalink)  
Old 09-06-2012, 03:26 PM
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those settings are factory Specs off the build sheets for the 67 Firebird.
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  #45 (permalink)  
Old 09-06-2012, 04:42 PM
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So those figures must have the static setting factored in. I'd still make sure that the limiter bush is fitted.

Duke
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