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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 12-09-2012, 04:02 PM
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Originally Posted by 69 widetrack View Post
Where do I start...All clears use reducer...some clears have the reducer built into the clear and all you do is catalyze it. Adding extra reducer to clear can cause it to "die off" as the solvents come out. This doesn't happen all the time and is dependent on how much extra reducer you put in. If your using a clear that doesn't call for reducer and you add reducer to it, you need to aware that reducers come in different strengths, and using a reducer not designed for the clear your spraying can give you the dying off situation I mentioned.

"Deadbodyman", I agree with what you said to a point, that you can't atomize clear if you can't get it out of the gun. If your spraying a heavy bodied clear and your getting orange peel, a 1.4 tip is going to atomize less than a 1.3. I've never had a clear that I can't get out of the gun, I have had clear that is heavy bodied to the point that I got orange peel...I solved the problem (for the way I spray) by going to a 1.3 tip. I had to move slower but I got less orange peel because I got more atomization. Base coat, being a thin product, atomizes much easier and can be sprayed successfully with different tip combinations. A lot depends on spray technique and product. If a 1.4 tip works for you with heavy bodied clear, that's what you should use. For me, I like my 1.3 for heavy clear.
I love SPI universil clear ,its just like Glasurat...I take it you havent tried it ???? I was really dissapointed when I tried to spray it out of my new Sata (1.3)I managed to spray the nose of the car (spot job) but had to go sooooo slooooow I couldnt hardly stand it...I'm a wide open gun and move very fast type of painter....but I can spray any thing thats reduced out of the same gun SS included ...
That said I started using SPI euro clear that reduces 4:1:1 and up to 4:1:3 to save some money and used the 1.3 Sata and got so many runs I was completely embarresed about it At 4: 1:3, and worked it down to 4;1:1 before I could use it with minor runs....I ended up going back to the universil clear and found its even cheaper in the long run with 2 gal. of sprayable material at 250.00 than the 4:1 at at 150 where ypou only get 5 qts....and plus all the time it takes to sand and bufff the runs out .....the universil is actually hard to run you really have to screw up to make it run (although I've done it) but its really worth it to ship a car without any buffing at all....Glass every time... I really looking forward to using that new techna gun I'll save about 1,000 00 in guns if it works like you and everyone else says it does...

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  #17 (permalink)  
Old 12-09-2012, 04:22 PM
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No, I've never tried the SPI products...first I'm in Canada and they don't seem to have any distribution up here...if they did they may not be allowed to sell it because we have VOC laws up here. If it doesn't meet government standards regarding VOC's the paint stores can't sell it. The painter can paint with it but can't buy it off the paint store shelf.

I know hat you mean by being a wide open move fast painter...I move fairly fast as well but people tell me that I have between 75% and 80% overlap, maybe that's why a 1.3 works for me?

But, from everything I've heard about SPI, I sure would like to try it. The low VOC clears we have up here now are leaving a little to be desired. I know one of the clears that lays down nice from PPG needs to be baked with the metal temperature being at 170 degrees...can you imagine the cost to the shop at minus 40. They do have other clears but still a bit of a challenge compared to the non compliant product.

Ray
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  #18 (permalink)  
Old 12-09-2012, 07:16 PM
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Originally Posted by deadbodyman View Post
Thats true but why buy the good stuff in the first place......more reducer= more shrinkage and raises the possibilites of solvent pop for those less experianced....
Try this ....leave some good 1:1 clear in a mixing cup (about a 1/2" or so) Then take the same clear and reduce it 4:1:1 in another cup and let them both cure for a two weeks ....you'll find the reduced clear seperates form the cup about a 1/4" -1/2" and the unreduced clear will still be stuck to the sides....ever wonder why sand scratches show up after a few weeks ? I truely believe thats half of it right there...
oops I meant ...using the same 1:1 clear then reduce it 10%-20% at 1:1... not 4:1:1....thats crazy... it;ll never cure.....must have been that third beer
The whole point is looking at what your using and seeing what is happining as it cures in the cup ,it tells volumes about the products your using..works with Primers too..

Last edited by deadbodyman; 12-09-2012 at 07:23 PM.
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