Originally Posted by 69 widetrack
Where do I start...All clears use reducer...some clears have the reducer built into the clear and all you do is catalyze it. Adding extra reducer to clear can cause it to "die off" as the solvents come out. This doesn't happen all the time and is dependent on how much extra reducer you put in. If your using a clear that doesn't call for reducer and you add reducer to it, you need to aware that reducers come in different strengths, and using a reducer not designed for the clear your spraying can give you the dying off situation I mentioned.
"Deadbodyman", I agree with what you said to a point, that you can't atomize clear if you can't get it out of the gun. If your spraying a heavy bodied clear and your getting orange peel, a 1.4 tip is going to atomize less than a 1.3. I've never had a clear that I can't get out of the gun, I have had clear that is heavy bodied to the point that I got orange peel...I solved the problem (for the way I spray) by going to a 1.3 tip. I had to move slower but I got less orange peel because I got more atomization. Base coat, being a thin product, atomizes much easier and can be sprayed successfully with different tip combinations. A lot depends on spray technique and product. If a 1.4 tip works for you with heavy bodied clear, that's what you should use. For me, I like my 1.3 for heavy clear.
I love SPI universil clear ,its just like Glasurat...I take it you havent tried it ???? I was really dissapointed when I tried to spray it out of my new Sata (1.3)I managed to spray the nose of the car (spot job) but had to go sooooo slooooow I couldnt hardly stand it...I'm a wide open gun and move very fast type of painter....but I can spray any thing thats reduced out of the same gun SS included ...
That said I started using SPI euro clear that reduces 4:1:1 and up to 4:1:3 to save some money and used the 1.3 Sata and got so many runs I was completely embarresed about it At 4: 1:3, and worked it down to 4;1:1 before I could use it with minor runs....I ended up going back to the universil clear and found its even cheaper in the long run with 2 gal. of sprayable material at 250.00 than the 4:1 at at 150 where ypou only get 5 qts....and plus all the time it takes to sand and bufff the runs out .....the universil is actually hard to run you really have to screw up to make it run (although I've done it) but its really worth it to ship a car without any buffing at all....Glass every time... I really looking forward to using that new techna gun I'll save about 1,000 00 in guns if it works like you and everyone else says it does...