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Geez, I figured this would be an easy one
![]() It appears the LV is the low volume version which would be assumed but was not sure. I called Iwata and did not get a real good feeling from the lady I talked too. (like she was reading out of a book) But she said the LV was the low volume version. So went ahead and bought one with the 3M collet for the PPS system. Sure looks and feels nice Spays thinner nice too ! Rich |
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A link to ask questions about Iwata Products in an open forum format.
http://www.asetusa.com/phpBB2/index.php I think you will like that Paint Gun.
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I got mine from my jobber for 350$ with an aluminum cup.. dont know why but he must of liked me that day.. i was about to buy it off ebay for 400 but i just asked him for kicks and i ended up buying it then and there.. works real nice i use it for kandys and clears..
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Sorry about the late post. Been VERY busy lately.
To my knowledge they are the same gun. I paid 350 for mine too. My local supplier who I spend quite a bit of $$$ with over the years. Sometimes you have to "remind" them about your loyalty and some "initiative" is in order. You get the 1.3 or 1.4 ? I got the 1.3 and am pleased with it so far. I was having some 'peel and wasn't too happy with it till I did an OEM tailgate and set it on the truck and realized how much BETTER it looked than the OEM clear. The transfer of material is better than what you think. I have not checked it with a mill guage but after color sanding a few pieces,noticed how thick the clear was with just 2 coats. |
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Yea I really dont know. The Iwata person I talked to did not give me a warm fuzzy feeling that she knew what she was talking about.
She said LV was the low volume version. Look at yours and see what the Atomizing air pressure shows in the book. The LV is 16psi. I am going to try it at all pressures. Someone on the board that I have grown to trust told me not to be afraid to try 30psi. I friend of mine is coming over tomorrow and wants me to reshoot his Mustang hood with silver Base/Clear. I am going to shoot the clear with the Iwata but have not made up my if I am going to shoot the base with it. Might use the Devilbiss gti for some and the Iwata for the rest. See how they compare. And, I am also using the 1.3 tip. Rich |
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30 Might be way too much IMO.
I am running at 20# at the gun reg. with 2 3/4 out on the fluid. This is with Nason Select clear at a 3:1. Approx. 7" from panel,going probbly 1' per sec. It's laying a lot nicer than OEM 'peel but I know it can do better. I'm used to a 1.4 and will get a tip for it shortly. I just am not pleased with the 1.3. On a laid down panel,yeah,It will flow perfect,Just haven't quite got the hang of a 1.3 on verticle. I have several scrap pieces of metal from work to play with and will do some more testing on those. It's always a learning curve with a new gun to get it right to the way YOU shoot. I won't conform to IT, IT will have to conform to ME. I'm WAY ahead of the game with this gun and it IS a PLEASURE to use. I'd do some test shoot's on junk metal just to get it figured out a little before you go for real on a keeper. |
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Quote:
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Wellll....
Might be something to that guy running 40 at the gun I refered to earlier. I plan on giving it a work out this weekend from the "recomended" to the "extream" I noticed that my Finex touch up which recomends 23# lay's very nice at 40. Which is what my Harbor HVLP touch up is supposed to run at.
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[QUOTE=Bee4Me]Wellll....
Might be something to that guy running 40 at the gun I refered to earlier. QUOTE] , LOL, Yeah he might be right, I sure can't complain about the results I had at 38- each coat sprayed as smooth as glass. More overspray at this pressure though. The results I was getting at 20 were also damn good just much less material output and smaller sized pieces-less overspray also. Sure is interesting comparing notes.
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Compairing notes with people who actually paint is always a GOOD thing. Main reason this site is stuck with me.
Could be that at the recomended psi,'peel is akin to OEM and "accectable" for Gov. regs and OEM's on repairs. At 20#,it was better than OEM as I said, But It just drives me CRAZY to let something out that isn't slick. Yeah, I'm myself but it's just not in me to do a half ***** job,which that is IMO.BTW, White is a real B**** to buff out, It was cloudy the day I did it and finaly got to see it in the sun and noticed I got some more buffing to do. This was my first truely white job and it's hard to get the reflective aspect for buffing without a LOT of light. Last edited by Bee4Me; 07-30-2005 at 07:49 PM. |
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You know I have to wonder if the maximum recommended pressure has anything to do with being complient? Above that psi and it no longer meets spec.
As a hobbiest, its not something I am concerned about. Just a thought? Rich |
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Us "hobbiest" usually run outside the rule's anyway.
One reason our work excel's. We have the time and put the effort into small time projects. Main reason I would not want to do this for a living,It then becomes a "JOB" which I already have,and would take all the appreciation out of it. It was fun,and it was real, but it wasn't REAL FUN. Which this IS to ME. I finally found a flame design tonight that is "different" and will expound on it to fully realize MY style. Coloring outside the lines is what I excel at and it bite's me most day's.But tonight,I bit IT square in the A**. I have been searching for a flame layout that appealed to ME from the normal Classic,Tribal,Gothic,Ect. It's a free flowing design and will take time to perfect but main thing is, I LIKE IT. Let you know. Tomorrow, I'm testing the LPH and will get back with the results. BTW. Teal HOK KK is a KILLER color. I picked up some Fri. and got to shoot some tonight over a silver base and it is one of the most BEAUTIFUL color's I've shot. Tangerine is a close second but that Teal is AWSOME. |
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