[thunderhead]

Originally Posted by zarbat007

I haven't tried the euro kwik, just the 7021.
If that's the low VOC clear I wouldn't use it as I haven't heard any good about it.
http://www.autobody101.com/forums/vi...highlight=7021

7021 lays great and buffs great anytime, unlike Nason clear that hard as rock after 3 days. Great clear for the price.

thanks zarbat007. i did some research and the 7021 is the same as the 7024.
there the classic clears . the 7211 is the same clear but drys within 2 hours .
i sprayed the 7021/7024 before and it was awesome ! but it took 2 days before
i could sand and buff. so i thought i would try the 7211 same clear just drys supper fast.same VOC. wonder why they changed the # .

[thunderhead]

well i talked to my transtar supplier and he told me the sufferance between the 7021 and the 7024 was just the size of the can.

[zarbat007]

That's right.

7024 is the quart size.

http://www.tat-co.com/productCategory.asp?ID=2

[thunderhead]

zarbat007, i will be shooting a 69 roadrunner in a few weeks with the 7211 KWIK clear i will post my results.

[zarbat007]

Originally Posted by thunderhead

zarbat007, i will be shooting a 69 roadrunner in a few weeks with the 7211 KWIK clear i will post my results.

Nice!

Make sure to practice on a test panel before shooting, to get the hang of Iwata.
Its a complete different gun from other brands specially the compliant GFG-670 since its slower, uses less air and and you have to get closer to panel.

[thunderhead]

thanks

[baddbob]

Iwata LPH-400LV 1.3 gets my vote as it produces the thinnest slickest flattest coat of clear for me. It doesn't matter if the clear or paint is as thick as tar the gun breaks it up fine with only 20ish psi. I like to spray slow and controlled and apply the clear exactly how I want it- flat and slick with no urethane wave from pushing puddles and heavy hosing. Use slow reducers and hardeners, shoot for thin but slick/wet-this will produce the least amount of urethane wave and the best as sprayed gloss.
Some like the 1.4 tip and my gun came with a 1.4 but this unit puts out plenty of material with only a 1.3 - equal to most other designs using a 1.4 or 1.5 IMO... Even with the 1.3 tip my fluid adjustment is usually only 2- 2.5turns out as I see no need for the volume of a full trigger pull. JMO

[zarbat007]

Bob, many have different standards for "slow". For me, the 1.4 on the Iwata is still kind of slow for large panels, that's why I was going to get a devilbiss plus but got a Sata rp 1.3 instead. I still love the LPH400, ordered the oranger cap for it last week!
To convert a 1.3 to 1.4 (or vice versa) for the iwata, the only thing to change is the fluid nozzle.

You are right tough, 1.3 will work great but 1.4 is the "universal" tip size for clears.

[96vetteLT4]

Iwata's got to be pushed up to 20-24 psi to get that great finish. Iwata recommends 16-20 but that wont cut it. I was having a problem with the 16-20 psi setting and got a tip to pump it up and to 20-24 and like magic it was glass. I think they give the 16-20 setting to be compliant as i've found no one that uses 16psi.....G

[52F1]

Originally Posted by 96vetteLT4

Iwata's got to be pushed up to 22-25 psi to get that great finish. Iwata recommends 16-20 but that wont cut it. I was having a problem with the 16-20 psi setting and got a tip to pump it up and to 22-25 and like magic it was glass. I think they give the 16-20 setting to be compliant as i've found no one that uses 16psi.....G

Not for everyone Boss..... I get the Glass like finish with Zero Orange peel with 18 PSi
the only time I have had any problem was with Operator Error..OOPS I resemble that comment.
I have yet to NOT get a great finish unless the Idiot behind the Gun was Faulty
Funny when I went to the Dupont school awhile abck the day I brought my OWN Iwata the Instructor used it at 16PSI and got the perfect finish.....
Iwata did their home work the LPH400

52F1

[96vetteLT4]

well you are the first that I have heard from that liked shooting below 20psi ....G

[zarbat007]

Originally Posted by 96vetteLT4

well you are the first that I have heard from that liked shooting below 20psi ....G

+1 I set mine on 25-27 PSI.

[thunderhead]

zarbat007 you the man !! i sprayed my roadrunner yesterday with the
pressure you said and the mix that we both use and all i can say is WOW!!
JUST UN BELEVEABLE!! thanks for your in put i didn't even practice with the new gun! started on the roof and wow! thanks for the settings!

[djas3616]

what differences are you going to notice at the different pressures? I've been using way more input pressure than the 18-24 lbs you guys are talking about.....what should i notice when i lower my pressure? I know they recommend 8-10 at the tip, but how do you get a reading on that?

You guys are really dialed in if you notice a difference from 18 and 22 lbs.

[52F1]

Originally Posted by djas3616

what differences are you going to notice at the different pressures? I've been using way more input pressure than the 18-24 lbs you guys are talking about.....what should i notice when i lower my pressure? I know they recommend 8-10 at the tip, but how do you get a reading on that?

You guys are really dialed in if you notice a difference from 18 and 22 lbs.

Well to start this right...Every manufacture has built there spray gun to work best and give you the smoothest finish at 10 PSI Cap pressure.
Now at 10 PSI cap pressure you will have 18-23 psi at the gun with the LPH 400. This does not mean some will not get better results with Higher pressure because the Speed and distance at which you spray can affect the finish.

people who hold the gun farther away or closer than the 4-6" recommended will use a different pressure to get the Same results. Also user speed can affect the way a gun sprays...You should remember that on an Iwata 10 Psi cap pressure will Always come with only 18-23 Psi at the gun...But then this is with Using a "Quality gauge"...At 23 Psi some gauges will read 24-29 Psi

Air hose length and Diameter all come into play also...as well as Available compressor volume..... So bottom Line a Cap Pressure gauge is the only way you can be for sure of the required 10PSI at the cap
Any more Inlet pressure causes Higher cap pressure which is Illegal and just causing more over sprayand wasted paint...So as you see...testing the pressure at the cap is the only way you can make for SURE of the cap pressure..CAP PRESSURE GAUGE
And don't forget the Compressor Volume test....Spray Gun Volume control wide open..with no fluid in gun...trigger pulled all the way back..hold for TWO minutes..if the Compressor will not hold the required cap pressure for two minutes then you compressor is too small..some try to Cheat by turning up the pressure...may not always work
Bottom line is you need to practice with your Spray gun whatever the brand to find the best pressure for you....taking into account all of the above.
Find the Solution that fits your needs

And I see we have another happy Iwata user..and it will only get better with practice and getting more familiar with the gun
52F1