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Old 01-04-2010, 09:39 PM
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Jag IFS

Hello,
I have a 1938 Chevy PU. I have the front and rear suspension of a 1989 Jag XJS. I want to use the 1938 Chevy PU Short bed frame with a BB 402 with TH400.
First I want to modify the front crossmember, similar to the TCI crossmembers out of 2x3 square tubing and set perches for coil over shocks. I want to use the Jag upper and lower A-arms and all other hardware but I don't know where to start.
The Jag front crossmember is big and bulky, I notched out a couple channels in the crossmember for the frame to sit in but it is not the look I want. It looks like crap!

Any Help on angles to consider would help me very much!
Thanks!

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Old 01-05-2010, 01:22 PM
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The question is a little vague, but if I understand you correctly, I would recommend replicating all the mounting points for the control arms and steering linkage from the original crossmember exactly.

As for the coil-over mounts, having the lower mount as far outboard as practical is a good option. For the location of the upper mount, what I like to do is move the lower control arm to the full bump position and locate the upper mount so the coil-over is then perpendicular to the lower control arm.

When at ride height, about 60-70% of the shock travel should be available for bump, with the remainder for droop travel.

That should get you in the ball park. Sometimes compromises have to be made.

Good luck,
Andy
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Old 01-05-2010, 05:48 PM
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Hey Thanks for the reply Andy. Yes I do plan on taking measurements but I'm looking for any ideas on camber, toe, and caster. Because I don't have the 89 Jag donor car anymore to take the mounted measurements, the crossmember is intact hub to hub but not mounted to car. I don't know the angels of the upper and lower.
What is the angle of the top of the upper A-arm from front to rear and the same for the lower A-arm?
The best position for the coil-over is straight up and down which I believe gives you the maximum use of the coil-over.

Thanks
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Old 01-05-2010, 06:02 PM
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Does the crossmember include the a-arm inboard mounting points? If so, I would level the lower arm mounts front to rear, and then take an angle reading off the upper mounts. If you are starting from scratch, I would level the lower a-arm front to rear, and angle the upper arm 3 degrees down in back for mounting points. Do you have the vertical spacing dimension between the upper and lower a-arms, that is critcal.

As to alignment settings, I have set these up at 1/2 degree negative camber, about 3 degrees positive caster, and 1/16" to 1/8" toe-in.

As to the coil-over angle, what is vertical at ride height, is not at when at full bump. That is why I set them up at perpendicular to the lower control arm at full bump. That keeps the coil-over in a rising rate configuration instead of decreasing rate.

Andy
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Old 01-05-2010, 06:50 PM
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Thanks for the info. I'm in the planning stages so I'm trying to keep cost down by measuring twice and cutting once.

P.S. This is my first try at a crossmember so I really appreciate the help!

Thanks Ronnie
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Old 11-23-2011, 01:35 AM
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Just was wanting to know how far have you got with your plan to make up cross-member to take Jag components.
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Old 11-23-2011, 07:10 AM
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jag questions.

Which Jag do you have. The F 40 moved the rear brakes out to the wheels and redesigned the front suspension. K & K Crosmembers builds a neat crosmember that you can bolt your pieces to . I think they use the early xjs type suspension. The F 40 front uses shims between the upper 2 piece A arm forgings, not much alignment posibility. I am also planning to build my own crosmember for the F 40. I was thinking of using the eccentric inner A Arm mount that one of the custom IFS kits use. I need some time on a friends 4 jaw lathe to make the eccentrics.

Last edited by timothale; 11-23-2011 at 07:15 AM.
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Old 11-23-2011, 07:14 AM
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jag lower coil mount.

My F 40 has a bolt on bottom plate for the spring mount so it would be easy to have some adjustability with multiple holes and bolt on coil over mounts to a new plate,
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