[farna]

I don't get on here often enough! I just completed getting the Jag rear axle ready for my 63 Rambler Classic wagon. Anyone interested in seeing what I did can go to <a href="http://groups.msn.com/AMCsForever/classicgtwproject.msnw" target="_blank">http://groups.msn.com/AMCsForever/classicgtwproject.msnw</a> for a pic of the completed rear axle assembly and other pics of the car.

The pic doesn't show real clear, will have to move the axle out of the garage on a sunny day instead of relying on flash. The center is painted a bright blue to match the car, so it reflects a lot of light. The two 1/2" bolts mentioned are barely vissible sticking out of the top of the fabricated crossmember. All I have to do now is pull one of the diff side bearings -- it worked loose somehow after I replaced the seal. Obviously I didn't tigthen it enough, it must have stuck pretty good in one position and worked loose after assembled and the axles turned a bit. Better to find this now than have to pull it out after it's in the car!

[KULTULZ]

Beautiful work! I wish I had done more body work when young instead of turning wrenches.

What type of power are you going to have...AMC 390 or 401?

[farna]

Try AMC -SIX- power! I have a 4.0L EFI Jeep engine (computer, EFI, and all) that has been bored 0.030 over to clean up and stroked by 0.44" for 280 inches (4.6L). Stroking is easy -- just drop a 258 (4.2L) AMC crank and rods in the 4.0L block. Only down side is compression is 9.7:1 or so using stock 4.0L pistons, so you have to be careful with cam selection and run mid grade fuel. Gives tremendous low end torque, but I don't think I'd do it again for a car. You lose just a tad of acceleration, and the torque gain just isn't needed. I estimate the engine puts out around 220-240 hp and 270-280 ft/lbs torque. Torque peaks at 1600-1700 rpm though! Engine pulls good up to 5K rpm, really great for a big in-line six. It's ready to go right off idle with that low torque curve, which makes taking off on wet roads something to think about -- it spins instead of scoots across traffic at the worst time! Hoping the limited slip will reduce that a good deal since both wheels will have to break loose.

[4 Jaw Chuck]

Sweeeeet...

[thebrit]

Hi, I like the fact that you are using a Jag rear end, looks good. We use them a lot over here, having said that one of my cars now has a 9" under the back to take the extra power when racing. I would however add that if you are putting any large horse power through the Jag back end you would be advised to add two straps from the bottom of the two control arms where they meet the diff, forwards and up to the chassis. This will stop the diff from trying to wind itself under the car. I have seen it happen twice in Britain. Hope you post the finished pictures when done. Regards.

[farna]

Thanks for the advice, Brit! Several companies over here make 9" center sections for the Jag setup, I'm pretty sure Coventry West's model will fit the stock Jag assembly, but not positive. I'll be adding a couple truss rods to the front, probably rubber bushed to keep vibration down. I have shock absorber bushings reamed out to fit the 1/2" studs in the top of the diff now. One ablve and one below the mounting plate on the crossmember. That should keep vibration down but not move as much as the stock insulators would.