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Old 05-09-2003, 09:03 AM
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Angry Jag Rear End Advice

I recently installed a Jag rear axle in my 1963 Rambler Classic wagon (pic at <a href="http://groups.msn.com/AMCsForever/," target="_blank">http://groups.msn.com/AMCsForever/,</a> look in "Classic GTW" album). Installation looks sweet -- used four link bars for trailing arms. But I made one mistake -- width of axle. Jaguar rear tread is only 1" wider than the stock Rambler axle, so no problems, right? No need to narrow axle. WRONG!! The stock Jag uses a deep backset wheel. Now go out and try to find deep backset (front wheel drive type) wheels with a 5 x 4.75" bolt pattern -- only a few are available. I settled on 15 x 7 Weld Racing Draglite Series 90. They are available with a 5.5" backset (4.5" and 3.5" as well). To keep the wheels looking the same all around, I ordered 1.5" thick bolt on spacers for the front wheels (AMC uses a 5 x 4.5" bolt pattern) so I could use 5.5" backset all around. The Weld wheels are drilled for both 5 x 4.5 and 4.75 bolt patterns. Another of the few choices was an American Racing Aero (I forget which series -- 106 or 606 -- I think it was 106). Those cost a good bit more ($230 each, Welds were $145 at Jeg's), so I took the cheaper way out. For anyone thinking of using a Jag axle I just thought I would point this out. It isn't difficult to narrow a Jag if you have a good welder and can hold the shafts and lower arm perfectly straight. This is usually done by machining the parts so that a piece of tubing will go over the solid axle or inside the hollow lower arm. Cut desired section out, machine, slip on/in tubing, MEASURE AGAIN, tack weld, MEASURE AGAIN!, then weld all around. The axles are forged steel, TIG or MIG weld. Since the axles use standard U-joints, you can have a driveshaft shop make tubular axles, mini driveshafts. Only other advice I can give is replace the diff seals while the thing is out, they are hard to get to later -- axle will have to come completely out again. <a href="http://www.jagoutlet.com" target="_blank">www.jagoutlet.com</a> is a good parts source, I bought everything I needed from there and they were usually the lowest cost, but quality parts.

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Old 05-11-2003, 10:05 PM
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that project looks pretty sweet. I took a look at your pictures , Your mount looks pretty cool are you going to have links going forward from lower pinion area simular to a 'heidt's 'set up ? I drive jags and have used the rears in a couple swaps even the factory cars handle better with a lower support traveling forward from lower swing arm mount to body following same line as lower axel link. You mentioned a four link set up? get a picture in place, id love to see it
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Old 06-12-2003, 09:28 AM
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Finally got a good pic up! Go to http://groups.msn.com/AMCsForever/cl...twproject.msnw for a pic of the axle installed. I just used a pair of four link bars for the arms on the outboard ends of the swing arms instead of the factory type trac arms. I'm not using a lot of power, but did rubber mount the diff (reamed some rubber shock absorber end bushings and put them between mounting plate and diff, then between mounting plate and nut on top). So it will have some movement. The links from the lower edge of the diff forward might be a good idea, though I'm not using a lot of power (245 hp, about 300 ft/lbs torque), so it should be as good as the original XJ-6 mounting at least -- probably stiffer since the lower arms have poly bushings.
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Old 06-13-2003, 07:52 PM
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Looks good. I personally would have gone ahead and narrowed the Rear. The use of spacers to make the front wheels fit aren't really a good idea. I don't know about your area, but in Virginia the use of wheel spacers isn't allowed. Not as far as Safety Inspections is concerned. A spacer that thick causes you to need awfull long studs for the wheels. Aren't you concerned that they may break?
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