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Old 04-13-2006, 01:47 AM
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Jaguar independent rear suspension specs

I am considering a Jag IRS for my full fendered '32 ford sedan. Does anyone know what model and year to look for and do any have the right track without narrowing or widening? I think 56-57" flange to flange would be about perfect.

Thanks, Craig

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Old 04-13-2006, 04:17 PM
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As a Moderator and a fellow 32 Ford owner.....I would like to WELCOME YOU to Hotrodders.com

55 to 58 Inches is the range I want my rear ends to be under a 32 with fenders....My cars are a 3W and a Roadster. A 32 sedan has tighter wheel wells than the coupe/roadster...... To make room for the rear seat. I always try to trim a sedan wheelwell and use the coupe/roadster wheel wells...( they are available from several reproduction sources ) It really frees up a good bit of room under the sedans......

I believe the early XKE Jags are the Jag of choice for a rear end under a 32 Ford.....64, 65 and the like....

I actually cut one out and put a 9 inch Ford under one a few years ago....

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Old 04-14-2006, 01:29 AM
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Deuce, thanks for the welcome.
I wanted to keep my stock fender wells if possible as the car is a driver with too nice of paint and exellent fender wells as is. Existing rear tires are 255/70/15x7. . .maybe a little big, I've been thinking 235/70/15's on 7" wide wheels would be a better choice and fit under the fenders real nice.
Another issue is ride height, most other jag rears I've seen in 32's seem to sit too high for my liking, maybe there is a reason, axle to frame clearance or something like that.
Existing rear (in there when I bought it) is a 7.5 ranger, 3.73 gears with truck arm arrangement and about 1.5-2" travel (too stiff) I may put a 9" in there and forget about it but really like the look of the jag. . . and I think the ride would be a little better.
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Old 04-14-2006, 08:03 AM
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I helped take the JAG out of a 32 sedan.......and went with a 4 bar and coil springs.......not coil overs but coil springs ( Vega ) ......( no photos ) .....it was many years ago....so no digital cameras .....



This is a shot of how it looks. This is under my current 32 3W project. The frame rails are notched for clearance......because I like them to sit low....My project journal has a few photos of the 3W and it's construction to it's present state...



This is my 32 Roadster.....which I have owned 30 years. The chassis under it is just like the one under my 32 3W ....except I went with the new Uni-Steer steering and Wilwood brakes on the new chassis.

By the time you get a Jag's axles to run parallel ..the car usually sit high...for me...

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Old 04-17-2006, 12:28 AM
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I just happened to take a rough measurement today of a Jag XJ rear. It was between 60 and 61". Hope this helps. Mine is going in a 33 Plymouth.

theTick
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Old 04-17-2006, 03:59 AM
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You must use the S-type axle.
It is 55" wide
There is nothing between the 55" and the 60,5" versions.

Try to browse english or Swedish AC Cobra kit car or hot rod forums. This solution is rather commom over here.
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Old 04-17-2006, 07:46 PM
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Deuce, your roadster has a nice stance. You say your 3w project has similar frame. Does that mean the roadster chassis is notched also to get it down in the back?

One of my friends found an old (1995) Street Rodder Mag article on the jag rear end . According to the article early XKE's were 53-1/4", XKE V-12 '70-'74 and '60-'69 3.8S's were 56". XJ6's '69-'88 and XJS's all the way to '95 were 61-3/4". There were many interchangeable parts between years but not all.
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Old 04-17-2006, 08:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Luxobarge
Deuce, your roadster has a nice stance. You say your 3w project has similar frame. Does that mean the roadster chassis is notched also to get it down in the back?
Yes.....but not as much.....The roadster chassis was done in 1988 and it is barely cut...I have rubber stops on the chassis to keep the 9 inch from hitting the frame......and the rubber stops do hit occasionally...SO the 3W is notched deeper. The 3W is heavier so it stands to reason it might go down more.... I have 1 step heavier springs for the 3W..

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Old 04-18-2006, 02:03 PM
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I'm using an XJ6 axle under my 63 Rambler wagon. I know it's not a deuce or remotely similar, but the rear tread on the Rambler is about what you want, around 60". The XJ6 and Rambler had close to the same rear tread, so I figured I'd be fine without narrowing. The problem with that assumption is that the Jag uses a deep offset wheel. Rather than narrow the Jag axle, I ordered 7" wheels with a 5.5" backset -- the most you can get on a 7" wheel. The only thing I could find was Weld DragLite wheels, which come in about the widest variety of backsets of any wheel made. Even the custom wheel makers couldn't go as much as 5" on a 7" wheel, 4" was it. So you might want to just check out deep backset wheels.

There is only one real problems with that -- the Jag uses the old 5x4.75" full size Chevy bolt pattern. You need a front wheel drive type offset. There simply are few wheels that have the necessary offset and wheel pattern -- most are for trucks and won't likely fit under your fenders. The Weld DragLite is an exception, and there may be a couple more.

On another token, the Jag axle is relatively easy to narrow. You will need an experienced pipe welder is all! The lower arms have a tubular center. Cut an equal amount out on each side then weld back together. If you space the shocks further apart tubular driveshafts can be used for the half shafts. The universals are a standard GM u-joint. You can also use just a single coil over for a light vehicle. The standard Jag axles are forged steel and easy enough to cut and have welded back together. The priority is they must be kept perfectly straight. The easiest way to do this is to cut the axle the same amount as the lower arm, then turn the ends smooth about two inches in to fit inside a 4" long section of chrome moly steel tubing. Weld around the ends of the tubing. I've seen them butt welded and built back up, but it takes a real pro to weld like that -- though clamping in a piece of angle iron helps. Make sure the u-joint ends are positioned correctly before welding -- they are 90 degrees out from each end.
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Old 04-18-2006, 08:14 PM
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jag stuff

has any one used the 80's jag front suspension? I picked a couple for a good price. they have 11 1/2 discs, forged a arms but are wide. I plan on using the stock crosmember to build up a fixture then build a narrow tubing crosmember and use coilovers for it . they have rear mounted steering racks
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Old 04-19-2006, 08:11 AM
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You do not need front wheel drive rims.

Just go for a set of BMW 3 series rims. The bolt pattern on the pre 1992 models is 5x120mm. That is so close to the Chevy's 5x120,6mm that you will not notice it.
The BMW 3 series have much backspace and there are lots of rims on the after marked.

If the backspacing on the 3 series rims are too much, then just go for BMW 5-series rims instead. They have the same bolt pattern and not so much back spacing.

I'm building a 34 Ford Roadster with a non narrowed Jaguar IRS. I use 16x9 inch after marked 5-series rims with 295/50-16 tires.
The distance between the inner fender and the tire will be app 3/4" or less.

It is rather hard to find one of the narrow versions of the Jag' IRS axle today. And if you do find one, it is often in a very bad shape.
Only the widest version have been used since the early 70's as far as I know.

Last edited by staleg; 04-19-2006 at 08:19 AM.
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Old 05-25-2006, 12:45 PM
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Jag rear suspension

Hi everyone,
I'm new to this site and thought I could help with this question.
I Have done many Jag conversions and supply complete suspensions or rebuild customers parts, narrow arms and axles, chroming etc. My company is CWI inc. (Concours West) and we have designed and built many different independent rear suspensions including tons of Jag stuff. We have install kits, Wilwood brake kits, complete suspensions, shocks, etc. I am currently working on outboard disc brakes for the rear with a internally expanding E- brake. It is quite simple to install one of our kits and we would be happy to answer any questions anyone may have.
Thanks,
Eric @ CWI

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Old 09-28-2009, 09:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by timothale
has any one used the 80's jag front suspension? I picked a couple for a good price. they have 11 1/2 discs, forged a arms but are wide. I plan on using the stock crosmember to build up a fixture then build a narrow tubing crosmember and use coilovers for it . they have rear mounted steering racks

Hi timothale,

davefromoz here mate

I am currently build'n a 28/9 roadster and am using 80's jag front parts but only the wish bones,stub Axel,rotors,calipers and backing plates& brackets.

Tossed the rest in the bin.

I found a place over here that makes a custom crossmember to hang all the necessary items from and it came with an engeneer's report.

They suit 26-48 ford/chev ect,use factory components series 1-3 cost me 900 aus i went and picked it up.

The company's name is K&K custom x members .
google it to see if he got a web address or email
he might be able to send u some plans for u to build your own
it may also be cheaper to import one from here as our $ is generally less than yours.
As far as the steering rack goes u need to find a small to medium car ford cortina or maybe a Vega but about that size any way.

your's in rodd'n

davefromoz
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Old 09-29-2009, 10:56 PM
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thanks for the links

That's what I thought about building, I have a couple of rear steer racks from chevy caviliar. the rack has center pivots so it's easier to minimize bump steer. There's some infor here in the WIKI how to articles
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Old 09-30-2009, 08:22 AM
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jag front susp

I have the series 40 front suspensions. the series 40 moved the rear brakes to the outside and redesigned the front suspension. the stock upper arms on a series 1-3 have the pivot points canted to point about 30 ft in front of the car The K an K has the pivot shafts more or less in the same plane as the centerline of the car. and probably lower at the rear similar to the mustang II for anti dive. series 40 have very little adjustment capability. the early S 1-3 have bolt and shim attachments. I was thinking of doing the eccentric shaft inside a 4 in piece of 1 1/2 dom to give more camber and castor adjustment. the Jag suspension projects cars are about 4 and 5 on the list
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