Jasper Tranny Yoke Leak? - Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board
Hotrodders.com -- Hot Rod Forum



Register FAQ Search Today's Posts Unanswered Posts Auto Escrow Insurance Auto Loans
Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board > Tech Help> Transmission - Rearend
User Name
Password
lost password?   |   register now

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
  #1 (permalink)  
Old 06-01-2005, 08:09 AM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: tennessee
Posts: 3
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Jasper Tranny Yoke Leak?

Good Day all,

Got a slight problem. Just had a new Jasper reman 700R4 put in my 91 longbed(standard cab) C-1500. Everything was going fine until about two weeks ago. Got a big load of mulch for the landscaping, and after unloading it I noticed a small puddle of fluid on garage floor. Now the leak is getting worse and it is coming out of the driveshaft yoke. Rear seal is fine and can find no other leaks.

Called Jasper and they told me to "weld up" the vent hole, but my problem with that is i didn't notice this leak for last three months of use until i put that first big load on the tranny.

My thoughts are the output shaft "sleeve" o-ring is bad, (some call it seal retainer I believe), but not sure if it even came with one. I would imagine it would given truck application, but you never know.

So, given the 36 month(about 6 months in) 75000 (not even 3000 in) mile warranty, what would you all suggest. I don't want to pull the rear housing for fear of losing warranty.

Thanks all,

Dink

    Advertisement
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
  #2 (permalink)  
Old 06-02-2005, 06:13 PM
aka Duke of URL
 
Last wiki edit: Finding vacuum leaks Last photo:
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Rockville, MD
Posts: 4,821
Wiki Edits: 1

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Quote:
Now the leak is getting worse and it is coming out of the driveshaft yoke. Rear seal is fine and can find no other leaks.
This is a STOVEBOLT subject and I usually try to stay clear of them but no one else has answered..

There may be an expansion plug in the yoke itself. If it is leaking fluid through there, try and seal it with a quality RTV. Otherwise, a new yoke.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #3 (permalink)  
Old 06-03-2005, 07:50 AM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: tennessee
Posts: 3
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Appreciate the response. Tranny questions usually are bad juju in most boards. Ah, the mysteries of the transmission. I was hoping the tranny wizards "CHAZMAC", "CROSLEY", etc.. would chime in on this one. It was their previous posts that pointed me in the right direction. I had no clue there was a difference between car/truck applications with yokes. Neither did peeps at Jasper until i pointed it out. I called local GM dealer and guy i talk to there verified it in service manuals, so those "yoke leak" posts were huge.

On a positive note, i spoke with Jasper at length yesterday and they are going to ship out a new o-ring for the sleeve. I tried to get them to ship out a whole new sleeve in case it is damaged as well, but no go. First guy i talked to there just tried to tell me to weld it up, but i don't feel comfortable changing designs from their origins. The yoke is engineered that way for a purpose. Second guy i talked to was much more helpful.

Having same place that installed tranny to swap out the o-ring and Jasper took out warranty case # so i'm covered and reimbursed.

If the o-ring has gone bad already, the deeper question is what caused it?

The only two explanations i can come up with are...

1. driveshaft may be too long (stock driveshaft with new bearings from salvage yard donor). Maybe all that weight in rear pushed slip yoke too far.

2. The yoke that came with this driveshaft is smooth, but is tarnished quite a bit from its stay in the salvage yard. I'm thinking maybe this applied a large amount of friction to the o-ring and caused its premature failure.

I'm also hearing a "chirping", "squeaking" noise from the driveline somewhere and not sure if that is related or not. It isn't constant, but comes n goes....weird
Thinking of getting an "economy driveshaft" from Denny's driveshafts just to make sure it doesn't happen again.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #4 (permalink)  
Old 06-03-2005, 08:09 AM
Crosley's Avatar
Hotrodders.com Moderator
 
Last wiki edit: T-350 rebuild tech
Last journal entry: Bar under the dash
Last photo:
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: ... USA
Posts: 8,058
Wiki Edits: 1659

Thanks: 315
Thanked 94 Times in 91 Posts
I seemed to me the problem was located so I did not comment.

Welding the hole in the yoke plug can cause troubles. IF you use too much heat, the plug shrinks and falls out. big leak then

I use a machine screw and silicone from the inside of the yoke to plug the tiny hole in the yoke end plug. Sometimes the sleve inside on the output shaft will not be installed correctly and slide around

If you use a drive shaft from a junk yard , polish the yoke with 400 grit sand paper. Do not ever use a rough feeling yoke. IF the seal is messed up from a rough yoke... the bushing in the tail housing is messed up too.

Chirping noise? U-joints bad in the junk yard shaft?

Drive shaft that is too long will damage the internal bushings and torrington bearing of the tranny. This damage is easy to diagnose and usually voids a warranty
__________________
Some people are like Slinkies... Not really good for anything, but they still bring a smile to your face when you push them down a flight of stairs.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #5 (permalink)  
Old 06-03-2005, 01:47 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: tennessee
Posts: 3
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Not my intention to call anyone out, my apologies. I just read up on the posts now and again, and you were the guys that had the tranny knowledge. Those "yoke leak" posts should be in a knowledge thread.....very good stuff. I am sure tons of people scratching their heads on this type of problem.

Anyhow, the real seal is good, and i put all new greasable bearings in the donor drive shaft, so maybe it was a factory defect.

Can't help but think I didn't notice it until i carried that large load of mulch, which would have pushed the slip yoke most of the way in. Just can't figure out the failure method. It's one thing to fix the problem at hand, another to fix the root cause.

I definitely will not weld the vent hole shut, thanks for the advice. What kind of machine screw are we talking in size? If that and some permatex will solve the problem, i'm in. I'm afraid this issue will be a reoccurring failure. Plus, a little sanding silicone and machine screw is much cheaper than whole new driveshaft.

Thanks again
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #6 (permalink)  
Old 06-03-2005, 06:41 PM
Crosley's Avatar
Hotrodders.com Moderator
 
Last wiki edit: T-350 rebuild tech
Last journal entry: Bar under the dash
Last photo:
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: ... USA
Posts: 8,058
Wiki Edits: 1659

Thanks: 315
Thanked 94 Times in 91 Posts
you can use any machine screw that will fit. the hole in the yoke is small.

I've used a long drill bit to open the hole slightly , then installed the screw with sillcone.

Spray cleaner will clean out the oil from inside the yoke..... spray inside the yoke AWAY from your face! It burns the eyes.

No apology needed, I thought the answer was there for you.

answers from KULTULZ ( especially Ford stuff) are something you can take to the bank and cash




Quote:
Originally Posted by S Dink 1
Not my intention to call anyone out, my apologies. I just read up on the posts now and again, and you were the guys that had the tranny knowledge. Those "yoke leak" posts should be in a knowledge thread.....very good stuff. I am sure tons of people scratching their heads on this type of problem.

Anyhow, the real seal is good, and i put all new greasable bearings in the donor drive shaft, so maybe it was a factory defect.

Can't help but think I didn't notice it until i carried that large load of mulch, which would have pushed the slip yoke most of the way in. Just can't figure out the failure method. It's one thing to fix the problem at hand, another to fix the root cause.

I definitely will not weld the vent hole shut, thanks for the advice. What kind of machine screw are we talking in size? If that and some permatex will solve the problem, i'm in. I'm afraid this issue will be a reoccurring failure. Plus, a little sanding silicone and machine screw is much cheaper than whole new driveshaft.

Thanks again
__________________
Some people are like Slinkies... Not really good for anything, but they still bring a smile to your face when you push them down a flight of stairs.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #7 (permalink)  
Old 06-03-2005, 09:56 PM
subman17's Avatar
Member
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: San Jose, CA
Age: 34
Posts: 90
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
I have a related question, I have a 1969 C-10 pickup that I swapped a 700r4 into about a year ago. I recently lowered it and I believe that the drive shaft is too long. How much of the yoke should be showing outside the tranny, and how much should it go in? It is a new shaft from when I did the swap, so I think I am going to have to have it cut down. One more thing, I have a leak coming from of all places the electrical connector on the side of the tranny, what would cause this and how do I go about fixing it?
Thanks!

Last edited by subman17; 06-03-2005 at 10:03 PM.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #8 (permalink)  
Old 06-03-2005, 11:07 PM
willys36@aol.com's Avatar
Hotrodders.com Moderator
 
Last wiki edit: How to rebuild a Rochester Quadrajet 4MV carbureto...
Last journal entry: How to change auto shift timing on 200R4
Last photo:
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Bakersfield
Posts: 8,384
Wiki Edits: 21

Thanks: 1
Thanked 4 Times in 4 Posts
Sometimes this problem is clear at the other end of the tranny. There is a check valve in the torque converter that is supposed to keep the fluid inside it. If that check valve fails, the fluid runs back into the tranny, fills it past the input shaft and thus the leak out the weep hole. Check the dip stick w/ the engine off. If the stick shows the fluid level is way high, that is your problem. My '54 dual range hydro did that (they are notorious for having the check valve leak after a few miles) so instead of trying to get it to seal I just added 1 1/4" to the depth of the oil pan and extended the pickup tubes and filter to the bottom of that and that fixed my problem. See this. No more quart of fluid on the floor after a night in the garage. Late mode trannys have much better check valves but they can fail if the converter support bushing in the front pump is worn. Might need to do a partial tear down and replace that bushing.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #9 (permalink)  
Old 06-04-2005, 09:57 AM
subman17's Avatar
Member
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: San Jose, CA
Age: 34
Posts: 90
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
I thought the fluid level would have to be awfully high for it to be leaking out of that connector. It leaves a puddle about 8 in around over night. I need to fix it before I finish all of the body work and get it back on the road. That check valve sounds like the problem, allowing all of the fluid from the torque converter to drain back. Thanks!
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #10 (permalink)  
Old 06-04-2005, 10:14 AM
willys36@aol.com's Avatar
Hotrodders.com Moderator
 
Last wiki edit: How to rebuild a Rochester Quadrajet 4MV carbureto...
Last journal entry: How to change auto shift timing on 200R4
Last photo:
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Bakersfield
Posts: 8,384
Wiki Edits: 21

Thanks: 1
Thanked 4 Times in 4 Posts
Yes, that is about the only source of fluid that can fill the case half full like it needs to be to reach the weep hole.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #11 (permalink)  
Old 06-04-2005, 11:44 AM
Crosley's Avatar
Hotrodders.com Moderator
 
Last wiki edit: T-350 rebuild tech
Last journal entry: Bar under the dash
Last photo:
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: ... USA
Posts: 8,058
Wiki Edits: 1659

Thanks: 315
Thanked 94 Times in 91 Posts
Torque converters do not have check valves , as most people think of check valves. The converter has a large hole in it where input shafts, stator shafts slide into. Kinda hard to put a check valve in that situation. Fluid is constantly pumped in & out of a torque converter while the engine is running

Some vehicles have check valves in the return or pressure side of the cooler lines on the tranny. The converter would drain down through the cooler lines and fill the tranny up.

As mentioned if you have excessive clearance in the pump bushing , gears , shaft bushings .... the converter will drain down faster. All torque converters drain down some. Higher stall converters drain faster .

On the case connector of the 700 & others ... there is an O-ring for sealing. You will need to remove the pan to push in the plastic tabs on the case connector to release it from the tranny case.

OR buy a new plastic case connector , then pull the old one out with pliers without removing the pan. Swap the wire plug onto the new connector and push it into the case. Becareful, sometimes the wire harness has very little extra wire length....... I would suggest pulling the pan to avoid wire damage.

May as well swap a fresh filter in there too
__________________
Some people are like Slinkies... Not really good for anything, but they still bring a smile to your face when you push them down a flight of stairs.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message

Recent Transmission - Rearend posts with photos

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name (usually not your first and last name), your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
If you do not want to register, fill this field only and the name will be used as user name for your post.
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.
Email Address:

Log-in

Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.




Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
TH350 driveshaft yoke leaking Jmark Transmission - Rearend 11 08-16-2008 11:38 AM
Tranny leak ThrouHerEyes Transmission - Rearend 1 09-02-2003 10:37 AM
tranny leak bubb rubb Transmission - Rearend 15 05-15-2003 02:17 AM
88 AOD tranny problems rflud Transmission - Rearend 9 02-17-2003 04:53 PM
Tranny yoke clearance Stinkin_V8 Transmission - Rearend 3 04-22-2002 09:05 AM


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 05:17 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0 PL2
Copyright Hotrodders.com 1999 - 2012. All Rights Reserved.