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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 04-10-2013, 05:18 PM
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Originally Posted by S10xGN View Post
Hmm, I've got a DR4 box and there is nothing stamped there on it. Mine box has a 3.08 1st gear to be paired with a 3.25 rear axle, Spec stage III clutch, and an aluminum flywheel. This will all go in a lightweight, high torque street combination. In your case, I can "feel" several potential problem areas. Car weight (?), clutch/flywheel (?), gearing (?) and lack of low-end torque.

Russ
Car weighs 2500lbs no driver. Rear end is 308 gear. Motor makes 600hp give or take. Flywheel feels EXTREMELY light. The car revs like a japanese motorcycle..I remember I had a friend with an import car that had a super light weight Tilton flywheel and revved very similar..That car was a PITA to drive. The clutch was like an on/off switch.

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  #17 (permalink)  
Old 04-10-2013, 09:09 PM
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This is what i was thinking of doing: The clutch in there now is about 7" and looks like 3-4 discs with the flywheel on the transmission side not the engine side. So I was thinking of putting in a more streetable clutch to drive the car while my other more mild engine gets rebuilt. What street/strip clutch would you guys recommend i look at? Obviously Im going to have to change the bell housing while Im in there.
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  #18 (permalink)  
Old 04-11-2013, 07:10 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lmsport View Post
I have a two, three and a couple four speeds, all with the ratios stamped on the case. I think all mine came from Hightower, so maybe he stamps them and Jerico does not. Sorry for the confusion.
Most likely it's the race shop stamping them in order to keep track of the different boxes.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dajerseyrat View Post
This is what i was thinking of doing: The clutch in there now is about 7" and looks like 3-4 discs with the flywheel on the transmission side not the engine side. So I was thinking of putting in a more streetable clutch to drive the car while my other more mild engine gets rebuilt. What street/strip clutch would you guys recommend i look at? Obviously Im going to have to change the bell housing while Im in there.
There's the problem! A small diameter multi-disc clutch will have solid (unsprung) hubs and no marcel springs in the discs. These clutches have zero engagement feel, as you stated, like an on/off switch. For a light car like that, the flywheel weight won't be an issue, but since you'll need to change it out you can go with whatever you want. I'd look for a single disc package with a sprung hub and semi-metallic lining.

This is a "marcel" spring:



This is a sprung hub:



This is a solid hub:



Both springs (hub and marcel) will give you a smoother engagement and you won't need anything but a single disc for that light a car. A good package with a new flywheel will run above $600, so be wary of cheap stuff...

Russ
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Old 04-11-2013, 09:31 AM
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Sounds like you might have ceramic lining on the clutch. If you do.. going to a organic lining will take away the "on/off" feel.

We also build clutch disc's that are one side ceramic and other organic. It helps with the on/off feel also.
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Old 04-12-2013, 09:37 PM
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Thanks for the input, gonna look into a nice street/strip sprung hub clutch from quartermaster or clutchmasters.
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  #21 (permalink)  
Old 04-20-2013, 11:27 AM
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Well This was the clutch I had in there.It is a Quartermaster 3 disc 7.25" racing clutch. Completely undrivable on the street or in traffic..I removed it and the rear starter mount bellhousing. I ordered a standard bellhousing and am researching flywheel and clutch combos for the street that will handle 500-600HP. the only weird thing is the Jerico I have is an 18 spline input shaft. And btw there are no gear ratios stamped on it or even a serial number for that matter..


Also on a side note if anyone needs an 18 spline racing clutch in good shape let me know..
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  #22 (permalink)  
Old 04-21-2013, 09:57 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dajerseyrat View Post
Well This was the clutch I had in there.It is a Quartermaster 3 disc 7.25" racing clutch. Completely undrivable on the street or in traffic..I removed it and the rear starter mount bellhousing. I ordered a standard bellhousing and am researching flywheel and clutch combos for the street that will handle 500-600HP. the only weird thing is the Jerico I have is an 18 spline input shaft. And btw there are no gear ratios stamped on it or even a serial number for that matter..


Also on a side note if anyone needs an 18 spline racing clutch in good shape let me know..
The 18 splines fits Chrysler stuff, shouldn't be too hard to get rid of on Racingjunk or E-Bay. You can "pop the top" on your box and count gear teeth, there's a ratio chart on Jerico's site that you can figure all ratios from the main gear set.

Russ
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  #23 (permalink)  
Old 04-22-2013, 07:40 AM
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McLeod RST is a good place to start.
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Old 04-22-2013, 07:53 AM
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Originally Posted by AutoGear View Post
McLeod RST is a good place to start.
I have read nothing but negative reviews about their clutches and I really do not want another multi disc chattering clutch. Looking at a single disc sprung hub. The car will not get that much abuse or track time at all..
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Old 06-16-2013, 06:02 PM
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This simple clutch swap has been a P.I.T.A. I had to replace the following parts to work:

Bellhousing
Starter
Clutch
Flywheel
Throwout bearing

I had to modify the following parts to fit...

Belhousing
Oil Pan
Headers


I hope this is all worth it in the end.. On a side note, I found out the gearing in the transmission is as such:
1st- 308 gear
2nd-193 gear
3rd-134 gear
4th- 1 to 1

Rear end is a 308 gear. How will this set up feel on the street?
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Old 06-17-2013, 08:08 AM
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you have a car that could go 200 MPH if the power is adequate.
9:1 first gear that shifts to 2nd just under 30 mph,shifts to 3rd at 60 mph and cruises at 80 mph in fourth.
not exactly practical or fuel efficient.

race cars are not great street cars,

what did all the mods cost,not counting labour?
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Old 06-17-2013, 11:05 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dajerseyrat View Post
... I hope this is all worth it in the end.. On a side note, I found out the gearing in the transmission is as such:
1st- 308 gear
2nd-193 gear
3rd-134 gear
4th- 1 to 1

Rear end is a 308 gear. How will this set up feel on the street?
Those are similar to the setup I'm building. My ratios are 3.08/2.00/1.38/1.00 with an 11# wheel and SPEC stage III clutch ahead of a 3.25 gear . My mill will be pretty torquey and the car will be under 2800# so it should be an easy drive...

Russ
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  #28 (permalink)  
Old 06-17-2013, 02:02 PM
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Originally Posted by vinniekq2 View Post
you have a car that could go 200 MPH if the power is adequate.
9:1 first gear that shifts to 2nd just under 30 mph,shifts to 3rd at 60 mph and cruises at 80 mph in fourth.
not exactly practical or fuel efficient.

race cars are not great street cars,

what did all the mods cost,not counting labour?
I did all the labor myself(some of it twice..) Clutch and flywheel about $900, Starter $260, Bellhousing $100 (OEM for now, gonna get a nice SFI one eventually.) Throwout bearing $150, Labor for welding the oil pan and headers $350.

Can I re gear the rear to get a little more efficiency? When i mean street freindly I mean cruising to the local meets, not a daily driver..Im ok with crappy gas mileage..I had a 10 second car I used to drive to and from work.
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Old 06-17-2013, 08:44 PM
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you will have to decide what gear ratio best suits the way you drive? If the car sees serious road racing then 3.08 is probably correct
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Old 06-17-2013, 10:27 PM
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Originally Posted by vinniekq2 View Post
you will have to decide what gear ratio best suits the way you drive? If the car sees serious road racing then 3.08 is probably correct
So your saying that with the 308 in the rear and my current tranny gearing, the car "could" go 200mph in 4th gear? Holy crap..LOL..
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