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Jerico Transmission question...

16K views 44 replies 8 participants last post by  S10xGN 
#1 · (Edited by Moderator)
I have a 4 speed Jerico tranny in my car, it was in there when I got it so I dont know which model but Im assuming it is set up for road racing. The problem is, I can NOT drive the damn car..I stalled out like 8 times just cruising around the block..

Are there any tips to drive this thing?? Im thinking of dumping it and going with a 5 speed a little more street friendly..Anyone have a tranny and clutch recommendation? Im putting it behind a ********* 389 Stroker..About 600hp.


Also if i decide to sell the Jerico, what should I ask for it?
 
#2 ·
What rear end gear is in the car? You also are going to need to know what the gear ratios are in the tranny, that is going to be the determining factor on what its worth. If it has some funky road race gear spread in it, its going to narrow the list of how many people would want it or be able to use it in other applications.
 
#3 ·
Can't see how it would behave that much differently than a regular manual even if it was a dog box. The roadrace sliders allow you to downshift and stay in gear whereas the drag sliders will tend to freewheel when coasting. Post up the rear gear and box spreads as posted above...

Russ
 
#7 ·
Not sure on the brand but is sounds like a multi disc the way it chatters when the clutch is released at idle. And the flywheel feels super lightweight, cause it revs like a damn motorcycle. Im assuming a heavier flywheel and clutch combo would be easier to drive on the street??
 
#10 ·
DO you think swapping out the clutch and flywheel would be a solution to make it more streetable? If so what would you reccomend for it? Im leaning towards replacing the whole tranny and flywheel set up but if I could get away with just the flywheel and clutch I would keep the Jerico if it was the "least" bit streetable..
 
#11 ·
you need a street clutch and a 2.88 T-10 or a 2.98 Muncie-style 4spd If you want to drive this on the street. If that is a road race jerico, the 1st gear is only a pit gear anyway, all your racing is done in 2,3,4. With that axle ratio they're probably in the 150mph range on longer courses in this car.

We support the SCCA A-Sedan series with a spec gearbox. There are Jerico's, TKO's ST-10s, our Muncie-esque 4spd and a couple guys running T-5s.

For racing you'll see guys with 3.08s, 3.23s rears and 2.56 or 2.20 1st gears in the 4speeds . But, its not street friendly for most people.

If this is a street application; either go to a 2.88 T10, 2.98 'Muncie' or a 5spd like a TKO and never use the overdrive since you have 3.08s.

The other option is to jack the axle ratio up to suit the gearbox better. Probably something like a 3.73:1.

Start at the beginning; find out which ratio Jerico you inherited and then we can advise on a clutch/trans or axle combo to suit your budget and needs
 
#17 ·
This is what i was thinking of doing: The clutch in there now is about 7" and looks like 3-4 discs with the flywheel on the transmission side not the engine side. So I was thinking of putting in a more streetable clutch to drive the car while my other more mild engine gets rebuilt. What street/strip clutch would you guys recommend i look at? Obviously Im going to have to change the bell housing while Im in there.
 
#21 ·
Well This was the clutch I had in there.It is a Quartermaster 3 disc 7.25" racing clutch. Completely undrivable on the street or in traffic..I removed it and the rear starter mount bellhousing. I ordered a standard bellhousing and am researching flywheel and clutch combos for the street that will handle 500-600HP. the only weird thing is the Jerico I have is an 18 spline input shaft. And btw there are no gear ratios stamped on it or even a serial number for that matter..


Also on a side note if anyone needs an 18 spline racing clutch in good shape let me know..:thumbup:
 

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#22 ·
The 18 splines fits Chrysler stuff, shouldn't be too hard to get rid of on Racingjunk or E-Bay. You can "pop the top" on your box and count gear teeth, there's a ratio chart on Jerico's site that you can figure all ratios from the main gear set.

Russ
 
#25 ·
This simple clutch swap has been a P.I.T.A. :( I had to replace the following parts to work:

Bellhousing
Starter
Clutch
Flywheel
Throwout bearing

I had to modify the following parts to fit...

Belhousing
Oil Pan
Headers


I hope this is all worth it in the end.. On a side note, I found out the gearing in the transmission is as such:
1st- 308 gear
2nd-193 gear
3rd-134 gear
4th- 1 to 1

Rear end is a 308 gear. How will this set up feel on the street?
 
#27 ·
... I hope this is all worth it in the end.. On a side note, I found out the gearing in the transmission is as such:
1st- 308 gear
2nd-193 gear
3rd-134 gear
4th- 1 to 1

Rear end is a 308 gear. How will this set up feel on the street?
Those are similar to the setup I'm building. My ratios are 3.08/2.00/1.38/1.00 with an 11# wheel and SPEC stage III clutch ahead of a 3.25 gear . My mill will be pretty torquey and the car will be under 2800# so it should be an easy drive...

Russ
 
#26 ·
you have a car that could go 200 MPH if the power is adequate.
9:1 first gear that shifts to 2nd just under 30 mph,shifts to 3rd at 60 mph and cruises at 80 mph in fourth.
not exactly practical or fuel efficient.

race cars are not great street cars,

what did all the mods cost,not counting labour?
 
#28 ·
I did all the labor myself(some of it twice..:mad:) Clutch and flywheel about $900, Starter $260, Bellhousing $100 (OEM for now, gonna get a nice SFI one eventually.) Throwout bearing $150, Labor for welding the oil pan and headers $350.

Can I re gear the rear to get a little more efficiency? When i mean street freindly I mean cruising to the local meets, not a daily driver..Im ok with crappy gas mileage..I had a 10 second car I used to drive to and from work.:mwink:
 
#33 ·
Yeah i get a steady flow of fluid but bubbles in between, I cant see how there is THAT much air in the system..I hade to top off the reservoir 2 times already. Ill keep at it, but Im thinking air is getting back in when I remove the hose from the nipple to lock the bleeder valve.
 
#34 ·
do not remove the hose from the jar,keep it submerged,,or;

keep your finger over the nipple with light pressure.When the down stroke of the clutch is done,the pressure will push the fluid past your finger.When the clutch is released the finger will seal the nipple preventing air coming back in
 
#37 ·
Anyone ever drive a Jerico Transmission? Im just curious if they are supposed to be noisy as hell...Loud noticeable "clunks" as it goes into gear when cruising and a PITA to downshift... Im guessing it needs to be rev matched.. When I did go WOT and do a 3 gear hit, it does feel like butter..It likes to be driven HARD I assume..:mwink:
 
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