Nate, that depends on what you want the finished product to look like. Spray bomb will not provide sufficient fan pattern for even coverage. I suspect you would be unhappy with the results and durability, as well as the stripping effect you will see.

Even a low quality compressor of any kind would be a better choice and could be done with one quart of BB. (I said "could be") ! Or, buy two quarts and take one back if you don't need it.

Harbor freight has inexpensive guns that would work. ($20.00). Maybe someone you know has a small compressor or get all the prep work done and ready to shoot, then rent a compressor for a couple hours. I think you will be a happier camper.

I did a good part of my project with a can. Some panels turned out great while others striped. I think I'm gonna end up redoing it all with my buddies gun and compressor.

if you needed to paint a car that had bb on it, would you need to strip it or could new paint adhere to it?

looking for something to get me through for a while, was gonna epoxy and 2k the car then paint it gloss black later, but spending less that i would on primer and having the car completed looks good when i might need to buy a new house soon (money might be tight for a decent paintjob). So how well would other paint stick, or would it need to be sanded down to metal again (the stage the car is at now)

i also would really like to know

knowing no paint place is open on weekends that i can find other then canadian tire wich he told me i need a paint code to get the right paint for my car as all cars are differnt, but i told him im repainting the whole car a differnt color. he just kept arguing.. and other canadian tire said they cant get it in for me.... so john deere Blitz black would be a good alternative till i got insaurnce on my car and could go over to a paint shop.

my car is going to be bare metal and my plan was to put primer then use body filler then primer again and then use the paint... can this still be done with the JD primer and BB?

thanks

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You will be stripping!
Alkyd enamel witch was fazed out of the body shops in the mid 60's to early seventy's as acrylic enamel took over.
The great thing about this paint was it sensitivity, you may re-coat the next day or next week or 5 years from now and it would wrinkle or lift itself, or at least 90% of the time.
Got a ding 12 months after painted, if the body filler overlapped edge of paint it sometimes would lift or wrinkle the paint.
Don't ever think you can spot 2K primer over it.
Gloss black over it? good luck, if your lucky you may have a 5%
chance of re-coating itself with the same paint and it not lifting or wrinkle. But never with a good paint, it will look like you sprayed paint stripper on it.
I guess this did not show up in the big weather room in the sky.

so you'd suggest the epoxy then 2k and drive it around like that for a while then?

Put epoxy on it! Its waterproof and use black it will have the same look than in a year sand and spray another coat of epoxy and than paint.
Don't get no easier than that.
If its going to be a while spray two coats as exposed to UV the epoxy will caulk in 6-9 months but no big deal as its the top layer dyeing and car is still protected.

http://www.directaccessalliance.com/108412.html

Hi Guys,

New to this forum - have just painted my car - Australian Model Valiant 1970 Hardtop (much like a 1969 Dodge Dart) in Matt Black 2 pack.

Looks HOT and I'm very happy - but how in earth do you clean or look after this finish?

Say if a bird * on it - how do I clean it seeing as you can't polish it?

Thanks for any help - will get some pics up ASAP.

JM

anyone have anything more to add? If I get my other fender in this upcomign week I should be spraying by the weekend.

Still a little confused about the reducer/thinner.

Finally I'll be spraying my truck this weekend.

well as I type this my buddy is spraying his old bug with the blitz and after we finish the bug we are spraying his 86 k5 2wd blazer and then my suburban.....on the bug he chose to 2 tone it with a flat gray....does anyone know of a rattle can sealer we can use on the gray that has a flattening agent built in so we can avoid the chalky aftermath?

Here's mine in BB

BarryK, apparently you can't translate ordinary english into aerospeak.
weather room = environmental test chamber.
Used by dang near every industry that builds anything that will be outside. You may have seen terms like 500 hr salt spray test. Do you really believe every paint company doesn't have several? Also, because JDBB is manufactured in a SW plant does not necessairly mean it is typical SW paint. Custom customers are famous for their own detailed specifications.

I just did the box of my 79 Chevy truck in Blitz Black. So far it looks good, no uglies rearing its head (like cracking). I painted the interior walls, not floor (will use a bedliner paint for this) and exterior panels of the box. I thinned it 8 to 1. I used about 1 1/4 liters. Is this normal? Will 2 3/4 liters (what I have left) be able to do the cab? I'd hate to run out; but it is not easy getting this paint here either.
Too bad the box is quite rough. The cab is in much better shape. Looking forward to painting this next. I originally, about 2 years ago, painted the truck with Tremclad (added polyurethane for hardness). That was some tough paint. Unfortunately the surface went quite chalky. But it sanded well for the prep of the Blitz Black application.

Well this is my first crack at using the JD Blitz Black. I'm relatively pleased with the result. Much to learn yet, though. As this is a varily rough truck it turned out good. Hopefully the on going rust problems will eventually dissappate. By then I should have the technique pat.