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John Deere Blitz Black??

626K views 425 replies 105 participants last post by  Centerline 
#1 · (Edited by Moderator)
ATTENTION: This entire discussion has been summarized in a single 1-page article about John Deere Blitz Black Paint. The article is in "wiki" form, which means that you can edit it if you like (just click one of the "edit" links in the article). To view the article, see this link: John Deere Blitz Black paint.

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Can anyone tell us about John Deere's Blitz Black paint?
like:
- A specific primer needed?
- Or no primer needed?
- 1 coat or 2+?
- A reducer needed?
- How good of a paint is it?
- Please any and all personal and professional input will be appreciated. I and we have a couple of choppers and rods to do in a flat paint.

Thx- Jade & the Las Vegas Pirates "the O.G.'s"
 
#252 ·
Rust

Thanks for the reply. I sanded down both the hood and the roof of my 66 Chevy Pickuo down to bare metal. I wiped them down with mineral spirits and painted them with John Deere Buff Primer. I don't have a garage so I was working on the street in front of my house here in hot humid Georgia. After about three days I started to see spots of rust under the primer. I have to add that folks here at hotrodders and Chevy Talk told me that primer would not protect against rust and that I needed to have it protected. I finally found a buddy who let me park it in his garage so I did it over. THhis is why I am asking what I was sealing against, it didn't seem to be moisture?

Thanks
 
#253 ·
Hmmmm not good, sorry to hear that. Primer\sealer should work if coated well enough and painted shortly after. On bare carbon always use epoxy primer whenever you can. same goes for fillers, never apply fillers to bare metal apply overtop the epoxy primer / primer sealer. A good inexpensive product to consider is U-TECH - E360 Series Epoxy Primer/Sealer. How many coats of the buff primer did you apply, I would think 3 coats redunced 10:1 sprayed with 50% overlap of the buff primer sealer would have done the trick. I used the buff primer to cover a existing two tone paint scheme of green\beige prior to shooting all one color. Prior to applying primer I used 320 grit paper to scuff prep surface. I included U-tech link below just in case you are interested. Regular primer or sandable primer does not protect bare metal but a primer sealer should unless I'm missing somthing.

http://www.akzonobelcarrefinishes.net/default.asp?sid=65395&pid=435
 
#255 ·
Another question

As I sand and sand and sand it seems like I could go on forever. I know that when I am painting around my house that many imperfections in the surface are covered by the primer and top coat. Does a truck finish behave the same? There are places on my exterior that have all these little pock marks, like I said I'm sanding them but I feel like I'll never get it perfect.
 
#256 · (Edited)
Oh ok.....hmmmm yeah rattle cans may be good for small spots 6"x6" areas or somthing to cover smaller repairs before painting but is not typically used for entire panels. One coat out of a rattle can is not enough material to protect carbon surfice. Rattle cans spray in a cone pattern therefore can be difficult to get even coverage throughout, especially over larger areas. You may want to have the ol' timer do the primer as well. I only say that so the that the top coat is not compromised as a result of a poor foundation. Also remember when dealing with bare carbon the metal should be thoughly sanded (not touched by bare hands) cleaned and covered within an hour.

Depends on material being sprayed but by the time you apply the base all the imperfections should be taken care of. It is ok to have some imperfections while in primer stage because now is the time to fix them. Ideally once bare metal is covered you can use a spot\glaze putty to fill or cover any imperfections.

Entire process should look like this. On bare metal use a DA with 180 grit disc, Once 180 sanded, clean with a wax\ grease remover i.e. PPG Acrylic Clean DX330 or other equal product (Apply and wife off immediatly) after 5 min or so after wiping shoot two coats of buff primer 10:1 reduction 50% overlap. Once primer is cured (wait an hour) apply spot putty \ glaze filler to pocks or any imperfections wait 20 min or so for filler to completely cure then block sand with 180 then 220 grit, clean away dust and apply 3rd coat of primer\sealer. Once 3rd coat is applied you can apply base coat color. If base coating is not to be shot with-in 7 days than you may want to scuff that 3rd primer coat using 320 and tack cloth off any dust prior to shooting the base. If using blitz black or any acrylic enamal be sure to use a acrylic enamel hardener. Some folks may say it optional but IMO its not and needs to be used. One other benefit to consider is if you use hardener and decide the flat black is not really what you wanted in 30 days and only if hardener was used you can actually shoot a clear coat over blitz.

Stuff below is really good and not as nearly as expensive as others at half the cost of PPG top products . $63 for a Gallon of Clear and $36 for quart of activator. Doing this would allow product to be a lot like a base\clear system at a fraction of the cost with all the avantages. Only draw back is you can't apply the clear for 30 days.

http://www.akzonobelcarrefinishes.net/default.asp?sid=65395&pid=448
 
#258 · (Edited)
Rattle

Yeah, I also have a gallon of the primer that I will have him use. I know there are lot's of different perspectives on the JDBB but for my purposes I hope it will do. I'm running out of gas (and time) on the sanding so I'm going to take it to him tommorow and see what he thinks. The closer I look at the surface the more I am seeing area that have all these little craters, I guess the tree sap that got the hood and roof got vertical surfaces as well. I'm attaching a photo of what it looks like.
 

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#262 ·
Bare Metal

This is where I am getting confused, according to this it doesn't:

Read this and call Shawn below. Hes the man.
No one knows more than he does.

Valspar Paint, Makers of John Deere Blitz Black

#1. If the existing paint is relatively good condition (ie. no peeling paint, no large amount of rust, etc) no primer is needed. Scuff sand the existing paint with extra fine grit sandpaper, wipe surface with a clean cloth and then apply John Deere Blitz Black.

#2. If primer is used due to bare metal or minor surface defects, we suggest the John Deere Buff Primer (available in aerosols, quarts and gallons). This is a very "user friendly" formulation that provides good sandability, excellent filling/sealing properties and enhanced corrosion resistance.

#3. A reducer is needed for optimum sprayability and appearance. We suggest the use of the John Deere thinner/reducer (available in quarts gallon and fives). It is formulated specifically for John Deere paints. The mix ratio is 8 parts John Deere paint : 1 part John Deere thinner.

#4. John Deere Blitz Black is an "air dry" formulation...but if you want the paint to dry faster and harder, John Deere has a hardener in their product line. It is available in pints. The mix ratio is 8-1-1. 8 parts John Deere paint (TY25669 or TY6416) to 1 part hardener (REN3001) to 1 part John Deere thinner (PT158).

Some more info...the exact same formulation is used in the aerosols as in the quarts/gallons. This helps with touch-ups and is critical in low gloss applications such as the Blitz Black.

If any more information is needed, please contact me. I would also be very willing to discuss any paint questions directly with Jade at Moto-Edge.

Regards,

Shawn Mahady
General Manager
Aftermarket Specialties
phone 612-375-7942
e-mail smahady@valspar.com
 
#264 ·
Oh

Ah, got it. What I was thinking was to do as much sanding as I can in front of my house, hit it with the rattle cans, park it my my buddies garage and go back jack and do it again until I get it to where I can take it to the dude to paint. I was thinking, since I also bought a gallon of the John Deere primer that I'd have him shoot the primer on the entire truck and then go with the JJBB.
 
#266 ·
I don't see why it wouldn't work. Sounds like a good plan to me. I always go to bare metal and put the bondo over bare metal and then get it flat and straight and THEN when it's done I put about 2 coats of primer JUST OVER the bondo. Let it dry and then do the whole car. In between all that though I do a guide coat and make sure everything is flat. Get spray paint for the guide coat, it's cheap and easy. Whatever stays left of the guidecoat is where you have low spots. Sometimes you will have highspots and a lot of guide coat left but you will be able to tell that part easily.
Good luck!

Shawn-
 
#267 · (Edited)
deferr said:
Alright I'm thinking my painting sequence will be

-media blasting
-epoxy primer
-skim with bondo
-jd primer
-jd bb

Anybody tried this??? any forseen problems?
Yup deferr that is correct and is the best practice approach IMO. I Have not tried it ... but JD primer sealer as a third undercoat prior to BB should be fine and a lot cheaper than EP with activator. If you have any epoxy primer left I would just use it though. Many places I know only sell epoxy primer by the gallon but you could certainly save on the activator or use for a separate project maybe where bare metal needs AP
 
#268 ·
hey fellas. im going to be shooting my 66' bug with the blitz soon. what kind of gun do you guys reccommend that is fairly cheap (under 100 bucks or so). I don't think I have a big enough compressor to run a HVLP gun. I just don't know what tip size will work best for the BB. Thanks.
 
#269 · (Edited)
HVLP is the way to go ...1.4 tip is ideal for most finishes. 1.4 worked great for me on both Blitz Black and U-Tech polybase and HS 4.0 clear. Primers \ epoxy primer \ sealers use a 1.7 tip. If you must go conventional use a gravity feed and not the siphon cup.

Believe it or not below is a good HVLP 3pc gun kit for under $100 click on URL below come with regulator 1.4 and 1.7 gun and cups. I'm only recommending them because I use this set myself and was happy with the results so far. Asking around does hurt but keep in mind there are so many choices. The higher end will have digital cap pressure readings but only body shops and professionals use them and really don't think they are needed for the occassional use from a home owner.

Vaper 3 Piece Dual Set Up HVLP Gravity Feed Spray Gun Kit
 
#270 ·
Well this has been quite an intersting thread to read the whole way through.
I have planning on painting my '63 Hillman SuperMinx wagon in flat black and didn't want to spend to much. There is a John Deere dealer about 10 mintutes from my place, so I'll have to go and have a look and see if this stuff is available in Australia.

My Vespa Rat Scoot was painted with kill rust paint and a brush. The cold whether didn't help the brush strokes at all. :D The cost was zero though, as it was old paint I had lying around from painting my LandCruiser's engine bay and chassis rails after the 351C engine conversion.











 
#272 ·
Bucko said:
I have planning on painting my '63 Hillman SuperMinx wagon in flat black and didn't want to spend to much. There is a John Deere dealer about 10 mintutes from my place, so I'll have to go and have a look and see if this stuff is available in Australia.
Well it is available here is Oz.
I ordered in 2 one Gallon tins. They had to order it in and said that it came in two packs only, even though I only wanted one tin.
They gave me a number for another place that had a tin in stock, but at A$60 for ne tin from him plus $20 shipping it was too dear for my wallet. But if I bought two tins from my local dealer it was A$105.
I figured getting the second tin for $25 was worth it just in case i needed more.
So I'll start doing the sanding back soon and spray the car in the next month or so once the weather warms up a little more.
On a side note, I got my carby kit today after waiting for over a month for it to turn up from the UK.
It's a hard to come by model of carby apparently. It was originally off a Ford Zepher but made it's way onto the Hillman because it is a little bigger and performence orientated.

Cheers
Lee
 
#275 ·
Urethane primer and JDBB?

After all this the painter primed it with urethane primer. I guess this is along the lines of him knowing what was best. Now I have a gallon of the John Deere Buff Primer. Now I get to worry about the fact that the manufacturer recommends using their own primer. I guess we'll see what happens.
 
#276 ·
FatFenderFreak

Never use so called "bondo" over bare metal. There are a few fillers that can be used over bare metal but not all of them. As long as JDBB is not being used as the actual undercoat I would think this would be fine for a work in progress. If properly primed and shot with JDBB and then somebody work is needed as long as you use a quality filler and when done shoot repaired filler area with a primer\sealer then shoot the JDBB over the repaired area as well as surrounding area for a better blend

Raven316

Urthane primer as an undercoating to JDBB will be fine. Were you going to use Hardener with JDBB?
 
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